How to Have The Cliffs of Moher All To Yourself!

Ireland's iconic Cliffs of Moher are on travel book covers, tourist brochures and most visitors to Irelands' "Bucket List"; and for a good reason-they are awe-inspiring!  If you want to have a chance to see the cliffs without the crowds, then read on...

Looking Northward At The Cliffs Of Moher

The Cliffs of Moher are on Ireland's West Coast located in County Clare between Hag's Head (near the town of Liscannor) to the South and Doolin to the North, stretching about 12 kilometres.  These 214 meters (700-foot) tall cliffs are an impressive tourist draw that attracts scores over one million tourists a year to eager to see the sheer drop into the wild Atlantic Ocean.  Most tourists end up at the modern Cliffs of Moher Visitor Centre located around the midpoint of the cliffs.  The parking lot for the Visitor Centre is on the R-478 coastal road, and costs €8 to park your car, but then you can enter the visitor centre for free.  The center is state-of-the-art and equipped with a tourist information centre, ATM, toilets, restaurants and of course, a gift shop.

But... if you want these rugged Atlantic cliffs all to yourself without the crowds even in mid-August at the height of tourist season, there is another route you can take.  There is a coastal walking trail sometimes referred to as the Hag's Head Trail or the Cliffs of Moher Coastal Trail, but it is actually part of The Burren Way.  The Burren Way is a 114 km (71 miles) multi-day hike across county Clare that starts in Lahinch and ends in Corofin, crossing the Burren which is Europe's largest limestone landscapes. 

Cliffs of Moher Coastal Walk

A shuttle bus service operates March 1st through October 31st bringing hikers back and forth to their car or bus connection.  There are four access points to the Coastal Trail; Liscannor, Hags Head, The Cliffs of Moher Visitor Center and Doolin (which has five bus pick-up locations.) For shuttle-bus information and schedules see COASTAL WALK SHUTTLE BUS.  From Hag's Head to the Visitor Center it is approximately 5.6 kilometres and takes about 2 hours to walk and then from the Visitor Centre to Doolin is another 7.7 kilometres which takes about another 3-3.5 hours.  The total walk is about 5-5.5 hours depending on fitness levels and how many times you stop to take photos!  

Walk Towards The Telegraph Tower

For our Cliffs of Moher experience, we parked at the Kilconnel parking lot for  €2.  The parking lot is located on private land off a farm road just past the town of Liscannor.  Heading north from Lisconnor on the R-478, turn towards the coast at the intersection of Saint Brigid's Well (worth the stop to check this Holy Site out) and then follow the signs for parking.   Once you pay the parking attendant who will direct you where to park, you walk uphill through farmers fields for about a kilometre or so to join the coastal hiking trail.   We recommend arriving early to guarantee a parking space is available. 

Please respect the private farm property and take care not to drop litter or feed the animals (no matter how cute they are!) 

Take EXTREME Caution Near The Edge

The hiking trail itself is quite level with only a few sets of stairs near the abandoned telegraph tower.  The path here is lined with large slabs of slate, and if you look closely at the stone, you can see fossilized worm tracks from when this rock was just mere sand on the ocean floor.  

The path does come very close to the edge of cliffs in several places.  There are no fences or safety railings on this part of the coastal cliffs trail.  The cliff's edge is often slippery, and the gusts of strong wind that can slam into the cliffs without warning are enough to bowl you over at times.  Even earlier this year in 2019, a student taking a selfie on the cliff's edge lost his footing, falling to his death.  The recommendation for children is that no child under the age of 10 walks the trail from Hag's Head to the visitor centre.  I think that as long as you are supervising your children carefully, hiking the coastal trail should not be a problem.

Making Friends Along The Hike

The weather can turn abruptly on Ireland's west coast; all the pictures in this blog post were taken within a few hours of each other.  You know what they say about the Irish climate: "If you don't like the weather; just wait five minutes!"  It's so true!  For this hike, I suggest dressing in layers with a good wind/waterproof jacket and sturdy walking shoes.  Bring along a water bottle and perhaps a snack, although the Visitor center is a good place to stop in for food.  You may also want to pack bug repellant because at certain times of year the gnats are terrible along the grassy cliffside!  Sunscreen and sunglasses are also a smart thing to bring.




The walk from the Visitor Centre to Doolin is not as dramatic as the first half of the hike, yet still beautiful.  The path winds past the Centre and slopes gradually down towards the sea at Doolin.  Doolin is a great place to stop in for a pint or a dinner at a pub.  Doolin is also a great place for Irish Trad Music in the pubs.  You can also book a boat cruise to see the cliffs of Moher from a different perspective-the water.  A one hour cruise is €20 (discount for online booking), and two companies offer cruises three times per day weather permitting.  www.doolin2aranferries.com and www.obrienline.com  Doolin is also the place where you catch the ferry to the Aran Islands with the same boat companies. 


Enjoy your visit to the Cliffs of Moher even if the weather is wet; because you know how the old saying goes: 

"you can't have rainbows without the rain!"

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Dingle Peninsula VS Ring of Kerry

Are you struggling to decide between driving Ireland's uber-famous Ring of Kerry and the lesser known Dingle Peninsula?  Then this is the blog post for YOU!  I have some pros and cons for each drive, to help you choose what will work better for your perfect Ireland road trip itinerary.

Sunset Views of the Dingle Peninsula 

I was fortunate enough to spend a week renting a thatch-roofed cottage on the actual ring of Kerry between Cahairsiveen and Killorglin, allowing me to drive around both the Ring of Kerry on the Iveragh Peninsula and the Slea Head Loop on the Dingle Peninsula.  Many folks have asked me which scenic drive I would recommend to them because they have limited time on the West Coast.  If you are getting around by public transport, then your choices are minimal, especially if you are travelling in the shoulder or off-season.   Tour buses leave from Killarney to drive around the Ring of Kerry making this a much busier road to drive than the Dingle's Slea Head Drive.  So if you want to avoid crowds, head to Dingle. If driving in Ireland makes you nervous, and you don't want to rent a car then the Ring of Kerry would be your choice, because there are very few tours offered for the Dingle Peninsula.  This article is geared towards travels who have access to a vehicle.



Views

Both the Ring of Kerry and the Slea Head drive offer stunning ocean views.  The Slea Head road is closer to the sea, whereas The Ring of Kerry has some beautiful cliff-top vistas overlooking the Atlantic Ocean.  You can also take a side road off of the Ring of Kerry and drive the 32 kilometres Skellig Ring Road to see the beautiful Cliffs of Kerry and Skellig Islands off in the distance.  
My vote for better views goes to the Dingle Peninsula because you are driving next to the ocean more than on the Ring of Kerry.

The Cliffs Of Kerry

Slea Head

Historical Points of Interest

There are many archaeological points of interest on both scenic drives, yet each loop holds different and unique sites. 

Gallarus Oratory, Dingle Peninsula

Slea Head has beehive huts that were used by early inhabitants and later by Christian Monks.  Gallarus Oratory is a very early Christian church that was made by hand corbeled stone in a stunning setting.  Kilmalkedar Church with its Celtic cross graveyard and ancient Ogham stone is picturesque and evocative. DUNBEG RINGFORT IS CLOSED.   If you want to see a stone ringfort, you will have to see it on the Ring of Kerry. 

Staigue Ringfort, Ring of Kerry

Ring of Kerry has three bronze age stone ring forts; two at Cahirsiveen and a huge one at Staigue Ring Fort. The cute town of Kenmare has a  prehistoric pagan stone circle in the middle of the city, and Killarney National Park on the Ring of Kerry has a ruined castle and a few deserted abbeys to explore.

My vote is tied between these two drives; each has completely different types of historical monuments.

Attractions

Jaunting Car At Muckross House

With Killarney National Park being situated on the Ring of Kerry, the town of Killarney is much better set up for tourist activities than Dingle.  Killarney Park has Muckross House and Traditional Farms which is a grand Victorian House, and it's working open-air museum farm, Ross Castle and Muckross Abbey.  You can hike many of the gorgeous trails in Killarney park, rent a bike and explore the park, rent a boat, take a boat tour or hire a jaunting car through the Gap of Dunloe. 

Mysterious Beehive Huts On Skellig Michael

Another famous tourist attraction that is along the Ring of Kerry is the Skellig Islands.  Skellig Michael is a remote island 12 miles off the Kerry coast that is one of two of Ireland's  UNESCO world heritage sites.  The islands have become very popular in the last few years because of the filming of the Star Wars movies, and you must READ THIS BEFORE GOING TO SKELLIG MICHAEL!

Honourable mention for attractions on the Ring of Kerry is Derrynane (rhymes with Mary Ann) House, which was the home of Daniel O'Connell who gained equality for Catholics in Ireland back in the 1800s.

The town of Dingle has an aquarium called Oceanworld that is very popular with children. See www.dingle-oceanworld.ie for more information.  Another favourite activity in Dingle is a boat cruise around the harbour to spot Fungie the dolphin, Dingle's wild "mascot."  Or * NEW FOR 2019* you can take a cruise from Dingle to the Skellig Islands (this is not a landing tour, just a boat trip.  Check out Dingle Bay Charters for their cruise schedule.  If you want a taste of "real Ireland" visit the Blasket Islands just off the coast of Dunquin. Dingle Bay Charters in Dingle harbour has a ferry service daily to the remote Gaelic speaking Islands.  If you don't want to make the trip all the way out to Great Blasket Island, you can stop in at the Blasket Islands Visitor Center in Dunquin.  

My vote: Offering so many more attractions and activities, I would have to say the winner for the best attractions is Ring of Kerry.

Beaches

Both the Ring of Kerry and the Dingle Peninsula have gorgeous sandy beaches, some are popular swimming areas full of frolicking children, and some are a bit more isolated and remote feeling.  For two of the most popular swimming beaches here my picks:

Ballinskellig Beach photo by Patrick Cotter

Ballinskellig Beach (also known as Ladies Beach) along the Skellig Ring Road has a 1-kilometre long sandy strand, lifeguards on duty in July and August, and the ruins of a 16th-century castle to explore.  Most of the beaches along the ring of Kerry are located around the village of Sneem or around Ballinskellig on the Skellig Ring Road.  This is a popular beach with locals and holiday cottage renters in the summer, so finding parking can be a bit difficult.

Inch Strand Near Dingle

Inch Beach or Ínse (in Irish meaning Sea Meadow) is a sandy spit that juts out four miles into Dingle Bay making it the biggest beach in County Kerry.  This beach is perfect for swimming, beachcombing, horseback riding and surfing.  You can also drive up along the sand at Inch Beach!  There are several surf schools located on Inch Beach that offer lessons from May through September and surfing is great year round.

This was a tough decision!  My vote for the best beach would have to be Inch Strand, on the Dingle Peninsula.  



Towns

Downtown Kenmare

While Killarney is a large town on the ring of Kerry, for me it lacks charm and authenticity.  It seems like Killarney is all just strip malls and chain hotels with a lot of forgettable pubs and restaurants.  While there are many other charming towns on the Iveragh Peninsula like Killorglin, Waterville, Sneem and Kenmare which is my favourite on the Ring of Kerry.  Kenmare is an ancient market town that is very easy to walk with lots of shops, restaurants and pubs.  There is also a stone "Druid's Circle" in the city that dates back over 3,000 years!

Dingle's Colourful Main Street

The Dingle Peninsula's namesake town of Dingle, however, is one of the most charming places on the West Coast of Ireland.  Nestled on the water's edge, Dingle is a fishing port before a tourist town.  Colourfully painted little shops and restaurants line Dingle's streets and keep tourists happy.  Dingle's real charm comes out at night when locals and tourists alike head into the pubs for a pint and a session.  A "session" you may know is an evening of Irish Traditional Music, and in the evening out of almost every pub spills the sound of drums, fiddles and lots of laughter.  Dingle is rather well known in Ireland for its music scene, and it is worth spending an overnight, other than Dingle there are no other towns that I would say you must stop to visit.

The vote here would be for Dingle on the Dingle Peninsula for quality over quantity. Dingle is a super little town!

There you have it, folks!  If you have limited time on Ireland's West Coast, I would head over to Killarney National Park, then overnight in Dingle and drive the Slea Head Loop trail.  If you do have the luxury of time to do both drives I would highly recommend it, as each peninsula is unique with a unique vibe on each.

Have you been to County Kerry?  What was your favourite drive?

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Family Day Dash Through The Snow In Ontario

My first Family Day Holiday in Ontario was special.  The romance of a horse-drawn sleigh ride seemed the perfect activity for a sunny winter day. We didn't let the frigid Mid-February temperatures stop us from getting outdoors for some family fun!

Cuddle Time 

South-Western Ontario seems to have a romantic "step back through time" feel, and a horse-drawn sleigh ride seemed perfect for this frigid and snowy Family Day! Our group met at Riverbend Acres; a farm situated South of Kitchener (between Washington and Bright) not too far from our farmhouse in Drumbo. Immediately the beautiful Belgian Draft Horses that reside at Riverbend Acres were curious to meet us and came around the corral to say hello to everyone.  These horses are magnificent; big and blonde with loving brown eyes. They enjoyed a little cuddle!

Our Sweet Ride

Libby, the owner of Riverbend Acres, had the sleigh and the horses all ready for us when we arrived. Blankets lined the bench seats that circled the inside of the wagon, plus we brought along some extra blankets for our laps-because it was darn cold out, even though the sun was shining.  Good thing we brought along mitt & toe warmer inserts that day too; it was down to -16 degrees Celsius that afternoon!  

Keeping Toasty Warm

Libby had a team of two Belgian sisters that would be pulling our family that day; 7 adults and 4 kids, plus Libby at the reins. There is a maximum passenger capacity of 12 people for each wagon ride.  Our group was no problem for these two horses who pulled us as if we were a bunch of toddlers in a Radio Flyer wagon! 

Ride Through The Maple Grove

Our sleigh ride lasted for about an hour; touring Riverbend's 100-acre farm.  We went down along the banks of the Nith river in the sunshine and of course, singing at least one chorus of Jingle Bells! Then the horses really got going to a trot, and I was amazed at how fast they could go... yet so smooth.  It felt like we were floating above the snow. Libby guided the horses through a thick stand of Maple trees, and the kids looked for bird nests, woodpecker holes, and even a few squirrel habitats were sighted. It reminded me that soon, this forest of Maples will be full of buckets when the weather starts warming up, and the sap starts to run in March.  Mmmmm...syrupy goodness!

Snow Angel Time

Libby stopped the horses in a field behind Riverbend Acres so that we could jump out of the wagon and make angels in the snow to add to her guests' collection.  The wind must have blown the snow into a big drift here because it was so soft and deep.  One thing I miss about the West Coast is the heavy wet snow; now that is snow you can make snowballs with!  We couldn't really have a snowball fight. It turned out to be more of a snow-spray effect, like how you would splash water at someone. Apparently, I need to hone this skill because if the wind is not in your favour, the snow flies right back in your face. 😩

Winter Time Fun!

The horses soon made their way back to barns, and we were ready to gather around a roaring fire for some delicious hot apple cider that Granny brought from Wellesley. But first, we had to check out the sheep and goats in the barn.  The kids had fun feeding the lambs that had just been born at the beginning of February.  I slipped outside to give the horses a few extra special treats; some big fat juicy carrots!  With Libby's permission of course...

The "Olde Piggery" At Riverbend Acres

We reserved the "Olde Piggery", a beautiful rustic stone outbuilding at Riverbend for an hour after our sleigh ride so we could warm up by the wood stove and have a light meal together.  We had plugged in our crock pots to warm while we were out on our sleigh rides.  Hot BBQ pulled pork on french bread buns was on the menu, washed down with some famous Wellesley apple cider definitely hit the spot! The adults warmed up by the fire for a while, and the kids played ping pong and darts.  A bit of Apple Schnapps sitting by the wood stove was a perfect way to end to the Family Day afternoon. 

   

To book a wagon or sleigh ride with Libby at Riverbend Acres call 1-519-504-8340 or go to riverbendacres.com   Connect with Riverbend Acres on Facebook or Instagram to see where they will appear next in the community!


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