Killarney National Park

Ireland's first National Park is a household name to many North American tourists. Killarney National Park is full of natural beauty and historical landmarks, putting it on the "big tour bus" itinerary.  Killarney Park may be crowded in certain places, but to get off the beaten here, is spending time in a lush green paradise.

Map of Killarney National Park

Killarney National Park is sometimes overlooked by travellers who get put off by it's over-tourism, but the Park has so much to offer.  As the starting point for the famous Ring of Kerry, the town of Killarney is a bustling tourist hub with the regional train and bus station, big chain hotels, tourist restaurants and shopping "outlet malls."  Don't let the tourist trap vibe fool you-Killarney National Park is a scenic slice of wild Ireland and a hike can find you all alone in a peaceful old-growth forest.   I recommend spending at least a whole day exploring Killarney Park.  Most travellers spend just a few hours in the Park as they travel through on the N-71; this road is known as The Ring of Kerry  

Old Growth Forests

Yew Trees

Killarney National Park was established in 1932 when the 25,000 acres Muckross Estate was donated to the Irish Republic by the Vincent family.  The government ran the park like a working farm for decades and then in 1981 UNESCO designated the park a biosphere reserve.  The park conserves the last native forest in Ireland full of Oak and Yew trees and protects the only herd of Red Tail deer left in Ireland.
There are three lakes in Killarney National Park; Upper Lake, Muckross Lake and Lough Leane and they are all interconnected, but each has their own eco-systems.  There are boat tours, water taxis, rowboat rentals and organized kayak tours available on Lough Leane that all depart from the pier at  Ross Castle.  There are several excellent and walking hiking trails for every level of fitness in Killarney Park.  The Park has a website with all the various hiking trail information www.killarneypark.ie

Torc Waterfall

Torc Waterfall

If you have only a limited amount of time in Killarney Park, I would recommend a quick walk up to Torc Waterfall.  The parking lot for Torc Waterfall is two miles South of Muckross House on the N-71 (Ring of Kerry).  From the car park, it's only a ten-minute leisurely stroll along a trail. You are passing through Friar's Glen flanked by moss-covered tree trunks of old-growth Oak, Yew Alder and Rhododendrons.  This is what most of Ireland looked like before people arrived 8,000 years ago; a lush green rainforest.  The Owengarriff River gently cascades down the mountain to create Torc Falls and is usually swamped with kids clambering up the rocks on either side.  If you wish to do some more serious hiking continue along the path, several trails lead up to Torc mountain above the Waterfall.

Rent A Jaunting Cart

A great way to get yourself around Killarney National Park is to rent a bicycle from one of the many rental companies by the train station or near Muckross House: Cycling Killarney, Lyne's Rent A Bike, and O'Sullivan's Cycles are just a few of the companies offering bike rentals and tours.  Rates are €15/day for adults and €12.50 for kids (and rear panniers are free so bring along that picnic).  Or you can rent an E-bike for €35/day-vroom!

Gerry Pulling Our Jaunting Car

Another option is to hire a "jaunting car."  A jaunting car is a horse-drawn two-wheeled cart that was the traditional transportation at one time in Ireland.  We hired our horse Gerry who kindly allowed his "jarvey" or driver to take us around the grounds of Muckross House, Muckross Farm and the abandoned Medieval Muckross Abbey.  A 45-minute to  1-hour jaunting car tour costs about €40-45 and a 2-hour tour €60 in the peak season (you can bargain a little in offseason).  Depending on the size of the cart you can usually have up to 4 or 5 people in the vehicle plus a driver.  The jarveys are all over Killarney park, lined up and hustling for business.  I know some jarveys are very persistent, so just find a jarvey who's accent is not so thick (good luck with that, my friends), agree to a route and negotiate a fair price.  This is an experience to remember!

Muckross House & Traditional Farm

Muckross House 

No trip to Killarney National park would be complete without a tour of Muckross House and Traditional Farm.  This stately Victorian Mansion built in 1843 was lived in until 1932 when the Park was created.  Situated overlooking Muckross Lake, the house is adjacent to Muckross Farms which is an open-air museum designed to give visitors a taste of what life in Ireland was like at the turn of the last century.  You can not see the interior of the mansion without the 45-minute guided tour that comes with the €9 Euro entry price.  It is also €9 to tour Muckross Farm, or there is a combo ticket for €15.  If you visit one grand house in Ireland-make it THIS one.  Touring the magnificent gardens of the Estate is free.  Visit the *stunning* Muckross website at www.muckross-house.ie for more details.

Muckross Abbey

Muckross Abbey is a beautiful ruined Franciscan abbey that sits on a chestnut tree-lined lane on the Muckross Estate.  The monastery was built in 1448 and has been damaged and rebuilt many times until Cromwell's army finally destroyed it in the mid-1600s. The abbey has no roof but is very well preserved and is a photographer's dream.  The ancient Yew tree in the centre of the cloister is a sight to behold!  You can climb around inside the abbey and even get up to the second floor and wander around the building.

Ross Castle

Ross Castle

Ross Castle is situated on the shores of lovely Lough Leane, the largest lake in Killarney Park.  Built in the late 15th century, Ross castle was the head of the O'Donoghue Clan.  The tower house is in good shape and 40 minute guided tours are offered with the price of admission €5.  The castle is open from March until November and is a bustling attraction.  For hours of operation click HERE or search www.heritageireland.ie.  You can get to Ross castle by taking Ross Road off the N-71 (Ring of Kerry) and parking your car or by coming through Killarney Park on foot, bike or jaunting car.  If you have time to wander around the castle grounds, there are some beautiful walking trails around Library Point.    Ross Castle is also where you can rent boats, kayaks or take a waterbus to Innisfallen Island where a mysterious old monastery sits...

Innisfallen Island

Innisfallen Abbey

Inniffallen Abbey was said to be founded around the year 640 by the leper St. Finian.  There is much evidence that this island in Lough Leane was inhabited since the Bronze Age because of all the copper mines in the Ross Castle area.  St. Finian was a disciple of St. Columba in Scotland and was said to be a very strict abbot who ran a (vegetarian!) monastery here. This monastery lasted for 950 years until Queen Elizabeth I dispossessed it in 1594.  The monks who lived here wrote a chronicle of Early Irish history in the year 1092 called the Annals of Innisfallen which are in Oxford's Bodleian library, England. This was how Lough Leane got its name; for in Irish the lake is called Loch Léin which means "lake of learning."  All of the ruins you see on Innisfallen are from the 12th century, the original buildings were repurposed to build a more prominent Romanesque style church as the abbey flourished.   There are no facilities on Innisfallen Island so make sure you bring everything you need with you when you leave Ross Castle.

The Gap of Dunloe

If you have more than a day in the Park, a trip to The Gap of Dunloe is a picturesque way to spend an afternoon.  The Gap of Dunloe is a mountain pass on the Loe River between the Purple Mountains and MacGillycuddy's Reeks.  At the North end of The Gap, you will find the tiny village of Beaufort with it's beautiful Ogham Stones that are a National Monument, 2 castle ruins nearby, and the ruins of two ancient churches!  The narrow road of the Gap of Dunloe is about 11km (7 miles) long between Kate Kearney's Cottage which is a 150-year-old bar, restaurant and craft shop and Lord Brandon's Cottage which is nestled on the shores of Upper Lake.  Motor vehicles through the gap are not permitted unless you are a local (there are old homesteads along the road) so you will have to park at Kate Kearney's Cottage and walk to take a jaunting car the rest of the way.   

My suggestion would be to pack a picnic lunch and hire a jaunting car from Ross Castle to take you through Killarney park to the Gap of Dunloe and then take the boat back to Ross Castle in the afternoon.  There are many tour operators offering unique itineraries that you can book ahead like Killarney Horse and Carriage Tours.   Or just pop into the Killarney Visitor Centre on Scott Street for tourist information on all the tours available to the Gap of Dunloe. 

Killarney National Park is a treasure on the West Coast of Ireland that should not be missed.  Even if your visit to the park is brief, I have every confidence that it will be memorable.  What was your favourite experience in Killarney Park?

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