Rome In One Day...WITH KIDS

When only one day in Rome is all you have, you want to take in as many sights as possible, but what can you see without overwhelming an 11-year-old?   The Colosseum, Palatine Hill and the Roman Forum are situated next to each other and are perfect for children to explore the culture of Ancient Rome.

Colosseum Interior

With only one full day in Rome, we wanted to maximize our sightseeing without burning out since we were still feeling the sting of jetlag.  We decided to focus on Ancient Rome and visit the Colosseum, Palatine Hill and the Roman Forum. After breakfast, we made the short walk to the Colosseum entrance. We had not purchased our tickets for any of these attractions ahead of time because we didn't know how tired we would feel after we arrived from Canada.  TIP: ALWAYS PURCHASE YOUR SIGHTSEEING TICKETS IN ADVANCE IF POSSIBLE.

TIP: THE ENTRANCE TICKET TO THE COLOSSEUM  INCLUDES ENTRANCE TO PALATINE HILL AND THE FORUM.  IF THE TICKET LINE TO THE COLOSSEUM IS LONG, TRY  GOING TO THE FORUM (ENTRANCE FACING THE COLOSSEUM), AND PURCHASE YOUR TICKETS THERE.  Many times there is NO line up at this booth.   The combo ticket is €12 for adults, €7.50 student/senior. To purchase tickets online go to the official site: www.coopculture.it/en/  there is a €2 online booking fee for your order.  TIP: even if you are buying your tickets online, you may get stuck waiting to enter the Colosseum during the busy summer months because only 3,000 visitors are allowed to go in at one time.

Fortunately, the line up to get into the Colosseum was not long early in the morning.    We took the tour offered in English with a guide for €5 each, and it was the best 45 minutes we spent! Our guide was informative yet entertaining for adults and kids alike, capturing our attention with tales of  Emperors and gladiator fights.  The new addition of the wooden floor laid halfway across the arena helps to visualize what the Colosseum looked like 2000 years ago.

After the Colosseo, a quick sugar-fueled, late morning snack was in order.  The expensive snack wagon outside the Colosseum (which included COLD beer) is a Godsend because you are paying for convenience and speed. Next, we hit the Palatino or Palatine Hill. It was becoming super hot outside.  TIP: BRING A REUSABLE WATER BOTTLE EVERYWHERE YOU GO IN ITALY.  We kept re-filling our water bottles from the fountains we came across on Palentine Hill and drank in the views of Rome from the heights. Amazing! The coolest thing for this first-timer to Rome was all the olive trees laden with little black olives dangling in the branches.   Yes, I even picked one and kept it in my pocket the whole trip as a touchstone to make sure I wasn't dreaming!

Making Friends

The lime and orange trees growing in the gardens were a surprise to me as well, and I could imagine how beautiful the palace gardens once looked.  Liam had a lot of fun meeting new friends; like the doves that make homes in the ancient ruins.  He even found a nest with three little babies in it.  Whatever keeps him busy 😉

Temples Of The Forum

Then off to the Roman Forum.  The Forum really got my imagination going about what Ancient Rome really looked like. It is a BIG area and the temples are so unbelievably well-preserved, yet strumming with the modern vibrancy of this city. I could see My son Liam was concerned and he asked me in a rather horrified voice  "why are so many statues of naked people!?!"  I gave some parental explanation of art and the classic naked human figure representing purity, blah, blah.  He looked at me thinking for a moment, and then made a BIGGER deal about the exposed genital bits.  "OK FINE; if it's such a big deal to you, then count the genitals-ALL of them!" I said with an exasperated sigh.  This turned out to be the best parenting trick for my over-anxious/OCD/ADHD kid -EVER!  I will keep you posted on the "privates" count...

Arch Of Titus

The Arch of Titus is on the Via Sacra, the main street through the Forum. The basalt paving stones we walked on were the original stones of this ancient street.  Imagine; the sandals of Roman Emperors glided along this street 2000 years ago!  The Arch of Titus has been reconstructed from ruin and was initially built in the year 70 CE to commemorate the Roman conquering of Isreal and the destruction of the Temple in Jerusalem.  The Romans brought 50,000 Jewish slaves who built the Arch of Titus and the Colosseum.  Walking through this arch was like walking through a portal in time...

Temple of the Vestal Virgins

Although there are many gorgeous ruins in the Forum, my personal favourite is  The Temple of the Vestal Virgins.  The details of the statues of the most revered of the Vestal Virgins were so vivid and haunting,  I could almost see myself in white chitin walking along the Via Sacra 2000 years ago tending to the eternal flame.  This was the blueprint for our modern convents.  Although, after learning the history of the fate of some of these poor girls, maybe it wouldn't be the best idea to be a Vestal Virgin after all.  Getting buried alive for failing to honour your 30-year vow of chastity seems a bit extreme!

Rest In The Shade

Kids expire quickly, so after about an hour in the Forum we walked back to our B&B for a rest and some antipasti including wine and Peroni Beer from the grocery store.  I love grocery shopping on vacation! It's always so refreshing to see what products are available in foreign cities.  To me, it feels like a treasure hunt, and as a Mom, it's a good idea to have snacks in the purse because my boy suffers from low blood sugar-also known as "the hangries."

Complete Bliss!

As the sun started to set we thought we would head out for an evening stroll or what Italians call "passeggiata." Everyone was out; locals and tourists alike.  Liam was on the prowl for a pizza place, so we headed in the general direction of the Piazza Navona, hoping to see the famous Bernini fountains tonight. Winding through the Medieval alleyways of Rome we became a little turned around, so we just followed the sound of music and came upon a big open piazza.  We were starving by this point "let's just have dinner here" we thought absentmindedly.  We sat down at a table at a restaurant on the corner of the piazza.  When I turned around to look at what was behind me; I gasped to see the Pantheon lit up in all her glory!  TIP: In Europe, you pay more for a meal when you have a fabulous view.  This was one view I was happy to pay for, and Liam swore the pizza was the best in Rome. Watching the almost full moon sail over the Pantheon, and all the beautiful people strolling through the square; I started to cry because I was just so happy.  TIP: In Italy, you are never rushed through your meal to turn the table, we could enjoy our meal for as long as we wanted.  After dinner, we strolled over to Trevi Fountain to throw a coin into the fountain and grabbed a gelato to eat on the way back to our Bed and Breakfast.  


This was indeed a memorable night, and I hope that coin I tossed into the Trevi fountain works it's magic because I need to come back to this glorious city!

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Original post; September 13, 2013

Rome Through The Eyes Of A First Time Visitor

La Dolce Vita.  By now, most of us have heard this Italian phrase about the sweet life.  Now it is our family's turn to see what all the fuss is about as we embark on a 3 1/2 week journey from Rome through Tuscany, to the Cinque Terre and leaving from the old port city of Genoa.  This is my dream trip through Italy and with my husband and 11-year son in tow, we hope to discover La Dolce Vita.

Our Room With A View

We arrived in Rome from Vancouver via Amsterdam on a busy Thursday afternoon in mid-September, and the airport was packed!  It was what the Italians call "Bel Chaos" (literally meaning "beautiful chaos") and nothing quite prepares you for it. For first-timers to the continent, it unnerves you a bit to be in a huge foreign city where no one is speaking your language.  But we needed to be unnerved. Our senses were on heightened alert with being jetlagged and overwhelmed, so we were glad we had done a bit of research online and in guidebooks to prepare for our arrival.  For example, we had heard that the taxi drivers at the airport often overcharge unassuming tourists.  TIP: THERE IS A SET PRICE FOR TAXIS DRIVING FROM THE AIRPORT TO ROME CENTRAL.  The price is set by the city of Rome,  and it takes about 45 minutes to an hour to get into to Rome proper by taxi. The rate was €38 in 2013- IN 2017 IT WAS €48.  There is a cheaper bus or train connection option if you are travelling solo or as a couple, but as a family of three, this was our best/cheapest option.

I love the feeling of arriving in a new country and driving in from the airport; the first impressions are what remain vivid in my memory.  The enormous umbrella pines that dominate Rome's skyline and the ancient villas and Roman monuments we drove past all made my pulse race.

We were staying at a B&B that our friends at Perfect Wedding Magazine recommended to us.  The B&B was in an ideal location; a block from the Colosseum and close to all the ancient city sites, yet down a quiet side street with grocery stores and restaurants. Our son Liam was an 11-year-old basket case from not sleeping overnight on the plane from Vancouver to Amsterdam; so after we checked into our B&B, we tried out the beds for a power nap.  The beds were so cool and comfortable!

Ceasar Was Here

We headed out around sunset to explore; which was perfect because it was almost dinner hour.  First, we went to a phone store by the Colosseum and got a local sim card for our phone so that we could make some local calls and texts.  TIP:  WI-FI IS NOT AS PLENTIFUL OR RELIABLE IN ITALY AS IN NORTH AMERICA.  You may want to do a bit of research on what is your best option for a phone in Europe.  Here is an article by Rick Steves on European SIM cards for your phone.

Roman Ruins At Sunset

We walked around the Colosseum, our feet shuffling along the ancient stones and I could feel my body relax into the scene. Maybe I was so spaced out from lack of sleep or maybe I thought I was still dreaming; but I kept saying to the boys "Just think, Julius Caesar probably walked on these very stones we are walking on right now!"
Heading further along the Via dei Fori Imperiali marvelling at ruins that blend into the modern city,  our stomachs were beginning to grumble. TIP: DINNER IN ITALY IS USUALLY 7:30-10ish.  Get your stomach on a new schedule right away along with your sleep schedule.  We passed the Victor Emmanuel monument and headed further into the modern city, turning into an alley where a restaurant's tables spilled onto the street. 

"Real" Spaghetti!

It was only 7:00 which is early to eat dinner in Rome, but the smells coming out of that restaurant made us NEED a meal right NOW! Pronto!!!   TIP: We were concerned about eating in a tourist trap, but simple pasta dishes printed in Italian only on the menu is what to look for folks-you will not be disappointed.  Just look at the look of "spaghetti bliss" on this kid's face!  Luke and I had a Roman classic: Spaghetti Carbonara which is spaghetti with pancetta (Italian bacon) and a creamy sauce made of egg and fresh parmesan cheese.  Hands down the best dinner I had in very long time.  This place was a super authentic, hole-in-the-wall joint with delicious food at very reasonable prices (Rome is very expensive) so don't let looks deceive you!


We thought we would wander a bit through the small streets back towards our Bed and Breakfast by the Colosseum since we were determined to get over our jet lag.  TIP: JETLAG HATES FRESH AIR AND EXERCISE; TRY TO WALK AROUND AND GO TO BED AT A NORMAL TIME AT YOUR NEW DESTINATION.  
The street lights began to come on as the last rays of the sun sank behind the Palentine Hill.  I have never seen such a beautiful city at night! The churches and monuments almost looked surreal in the orange glow of the Roman lights. The way Rome was lit at night got me thinking "this is how Rome must have looked like 2000 years ago softly glowing by torchlight."  I felt like I was falling under a spell!

Power of Trevi Fountain

It was so surprising then when we heard the distinct sound of water gushing and when we rounded a corner were surprised by the bel chaos of Trevi Fountain!
It was absolutely jam-packed. Luke had to line up to get up front for a photo of Trevi. Hey, no problem; we're from Vancouver and are used to the long Starbucks Coffee queues.  Liam wanted to climb all over the statues which were guarded by security staff of some sort; so I redirected him to look on the ground for coins to throw in the fountain. I told him the legend that if you throw a coin over your shoulder into the Trevi fountain, you will return to Rome again one day. Well, I guess a lot of tourists have lousy aim because he came back with a hand full of change!  That's my boy 😏

Our First Gelato In Rome

We each tossed a coin into Trevi and put the rest towards a round of gelato at Gelato In Trevi. I know it was a touristy place to buy our first Italian gelato, but it was terrific!    Liam and I made a pact that we would have gelato every day we were in Italy.  We did honour that promise most days; except for on the days we had two gelatos a day...because GELATO!

By this time we were tired, full, and drunk on the beauty this Eternal City had to offer.  We hit the hay hard that night, dreaming of all the ancient wonder that lay ahead of us the next day, and of course the gelato.

Original post September 12, 2013

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What To Eat In Venice

Let's face it; Venice is known for its beautiful canals, outstanding architecture, and a dreamy atmosphere; not for its fantastic food!   Most visitors to Venice are unaware that the traditional Venetian cuisine that dates back centuries even exists.  Don't despair; there is typical Venetian food, and I will help you to eat like a local in Venice.   

Yes, there is A LOT of pizza in Venice, which is an authentic dish in the south of Italy.  Eating pizza in Venice is equivalent to having deep fried chicken in Canada; it's still a North American dish, but the origin of deep fried chicken is from the Southern USA, thousands of miles away and definitely not local.  With the average tourist coming into Venice off a cruise ship typically spending only 6-8 hours in Venice and the average tourist on an organized group bus tour just spending about 2 days in Venice,  many restaurants only put out tourist menus never expecting to have repeat customers.    Even so, there are 60,000 residents in Venice and their food and wine culture is alive and well...

Cicchetti 101

Cicchetti  Bar Culture

When thinking about authentic food in Venice, the first thing that comes to mind is "cicchetti."  Cicchetti ( pronounced chee-KET-ee) is a Venetian dialect word that refers to "a small bite" like tapas in Spain.    Cicchetti can be as simple as olives and cheese or more elaborate finger food. Asiago cheese comes from the Veneto region and is delicious with a small glass of local wine which is called an "ombre" in Venetian dialect. Another type of cicchetti is baguette or crostini topped bites of meat, egg, cheese or a roasted vegetable spread.  One other common cicchetti you must try are "polpette." Polpette are succulent meatballs that are breaded and deep-fried and served hot or cold.
There are dedicated cicchetti Bars called "Bacari" that are open from lunchtime to after the dinner hour (and some well into the night) offering reasonably priced drinks and finger foods to hungry Venetians.  For more information on Venice's cicchetti tradition and where to find them, check out my blog post on First Timer's Guide To Venice.

Seafood

The Venetian lagoon provides an abundance of seafood dishes to the floating city.  Grilled baby squid "seppioline all grillia", marinated anchovies "acciughe marinate", and the famous "sarde in saor" which is a dish of sardines in a "sweet & sour" sauce of vinegar and onions and served on crostini are all famous regional dishes that can be found in Osterias and Bacari in Venice.  You will find many Venetian dishes are pickled or in vinegar sauce because it was a method of food preservation for sailors during the middle ages.

Mixed Seafood Cone

For street food that has a sampling of all the lagoon has to offer, look for stands selling "Cono Pesce Frito Misto" which is a paper cone loaded with deep fried mixed seafood bits!  It's absolute heaven.  There is a famous one in the San Polo district of Venice, but we had some as a snack from a stand near the ferry dock on Burano.  The place was called Frito Misto and for under €6, we had a delicious and freshly caught mini-meal!



Another delicious Venetian specialty is "baccalà montecato" which is a light and fluffy cod dish.  This is often eaten as antipasti or appetizer and is dried cod that has been soaked, and then poached and blended with olive oil to create a smooth mousse.  It is usually served on slices of grilled polenta or as a side dish to your main meal.  It was my favourite dish in Venice.

Where's The Pasta?

In Venice pasta is NOT king.  In fact, pasta is more of a southern Italian dish.  In the north of Italy, rice is king, and the Veneto region grows rice for risotto as its staple grain.  There are many risotto dishes in Veneto Region, but the most traditional in Venice is "risotto al nero di seppia" which is rice cooked in squid ink.  The jet-black rice dish is prepared with onion and tomato and has a robust briny seafood flavour.  If you ever had squid-ink pasta, you can recall the taste and magnify it by 10!

Speaking of rice don't forget the classic "Risi e bisi"!  Not only is it fun to say, this rice and peas dish that is halfway between risotto and soup.  Traditionally eaten on St. Marks Day on April 25th when the Rialto Market is overflowing with stalls selling fresh peas.  This traditional dish has no fish yet a salty element is added with smoky Italian bacon called pancetta.  The sweet and crunchy freshly shelled peas give a nice contrast to the recipe.

Bigoli In Salsa

Another staple grain in Venice that you must try is polenta.  This is grain came over from the Americas after it was discovered in 1492 and by the mid-1500's polenta was a staple grain in the Veneto Region.  The white polenta from Veneto is eaten like bread with the evening meal, and cold or grilled and served with cheeses, honey or jam as breakfast or snacks the next day.

The last item that I recommend you try is a pasta made with buckwheat, rather than semolina flour that most pasta is made from.  Sometimes made with whole wheat instead of buckwheat (which is not actually a wheat at all) this pasta is called "bigoli" (or bigoi in dialect) these long, thick spaghetti shaped noodles are served in "salsa" or sauce with onions and salt-cured fish such as sardines or anchovies.  Traditionally, this dish used to be served on Holy Days like Good Friday or Christmas Eve when meat was not eaten, but now it is served as regular fare in local restaurants.

Desserts

Tiramisu

Tiramisu This is the great cake debate.  It is one of the most famous Italian desserts that became super popular in North America in the 1980's.  It was said to have been invented in Treviso in the 1960's, but there is much debate in the food world about that.  Tirame sù means "pick me up" in Venetian dialect and this coffee soaked cake, with chocolate and mascarpone cream, is the ultimate decadent dessert to sample in Venice.

There are also many cookies that are local Venetian delicacies, all you have to do is go into a bakery to see the variety that is offered.  Many of the recipes date back to the Middle Ages when the spice trade was established along the Silk Road.  For example, Pevarini cookies are made with black pepper and sweetened with molasses.  This recipe dates back to the 1400's when pepper was new on the spice scene.  For more on the cookies of the Venice area, I wrote a bit about it in my blog post on the neighbouring island of Burano which has a lot of unique cookie recipes that are specific to the tiny island.

Deep Fried Custard

I bet you haven't heard of these little, fried delights called "crema fritta."  This is custard that has been chilled until firm, cut into shapes, breaded and then deep-fried and sprinkled with icing sugar or cinnamon sugar.  Ahhhhhhhh!  Sweet and crunchy on the outside and soft and creamy in the middle.  This a type of street food that is usually served in the winter from Christmas to Carnevale.

Speaking of Carnevale another street sweet that appears before Lent is "Fritole."    Fritole are sweet pastry fritters made from a dough consisting of eggs, butter, milk and flour.  Then raisins and pine nuts are added for texture.  The mixture is formed into little balls and deep-fried and then rolled in sugar.  They are often washed down with prosecco, a local sweet sparkling wine.  On the subject of wine, Venice and the Veneto Region have so many unique wines and cocktails to offer that I want to tell you about, but I believe a separate blog post would be the only way to let you know about the fantastic varieties available to you.

There are so many more unique Venetian dishes that I have not mentioned here, and if you have a favourite that you tried, please let me know in the comments section below and Buon Appetito!

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Algonquin's Iconic Canoe Lake

There was something so lonely about sitting in a little canoe in the middle of a big blue lake; the only sound was the wind and the waves loudly slapping the sides of your boat.  It was a strange sensation that I felt long ago as a kid learning to paddle a canoe at summer camp, but had never felt again; even as an adult in a kayak on the Canadian West Coast. This may sound weird, but I felt so intensely Canadian.  It felt like I had stepped into a Tom Thomson painting...

Tom Thomson's Jack Pine

You see, growing up in Vancouver as a young inner-city kid, our grade 1 teacher had taken our class on the public bus to The Vancouver Art Gallery to see some Canadian art. The VAG features Emily Carr's painting collection that captures the Canadian West Coast.  I fell in love with Emily Carr and her totem pole paintings that day.  To contrast Carr's work, the teacher took us into a"Group Of Seven" gallery that was on tour to the VAG, where I saw images of windswept trees clinging to rock outcroppings overlooking vast "oceans" that were actually lakes.  Words like "Canadian shield" and "Great Lakes" were tossed around.  As a 6-year-old, I had no idea what they were talking about, but there was one painting that I remember seeing in the gallery that really piqued my imagination for years to come.  It was Tom Thomson's painting "The Jack Pine" with its gnarley branches twisted by the wind.  The colours were not lush and nurturing green like Carr's paintings, but ochre, brown and grey, which felt so hard and rugged; so different. I remember the teacher saying Tom Thomson painted in Algonquin Park.  From that moment on, I knew I had to visit this place and see the landscape through my own eyes.

Tom Thomson came to Algonquin in 1912 and fell in love with what he saw.  He stayed in Algonquin Park working and painting the Canadian landscape until his mysterious death in 1917. Tom Thomson's body was found in Canoe Lake on July 17th, 1917; 8 days after he had gone missing. leaving many unanswered questions about his death.   Thomson left a legacy of 400 sketches and over 2 dozen canvases that are in art galleries all over Canada.  We visited canoe lake, because of my childhood fascination with the artist and didn't realize that last year had been the 100th anniversary of Tom Thomson's tragic death.  The stories about Thompson's death were like a magnet that pulled me in to want to learn more about the beauty of this peaceful lake; the lake that is reported to be haunted by Tom Thomson's ghost...


We had a brilliant plan for the day.  We would head over to the store at Canoe Lake and hire a canoe for a half-day and explore Algonquin park without having to use our legs.  You see, yesterday we walked the Centennial Ridges Trail, a ten and a half kilometre hike the previous day that involved going up and down five separate ridges.  Our legs were stiff and grumpy, so the thought of putting them through another hike was daunting.  So we figured we would use the upper body to paddle a canoe all day to result in making our WHOLE body stiff! Yay!

Italy Meets Canada!

Rental Shop On Canoe Lake

We headed West from our Kearney Lake campground to The Portage Store at Canoe Lake.  The little Portage Store is a charming store, cafe, gas station and boat rental on the shores of Canoe Lake, which is in the heart of Algonquin Park.  Along with canoes, you can also rent kayaks and stand up paddleboards.  The Portage Store also offers campground canoe delivery service (how awesome is that!?!) and guided canoe day and overnight trips.  In 2017, the 100th anniversary of Tom Thomson's death,  The Portage Store offered an exclusive Tom Thomson guided day tour visiting many historic sites on Canoe Lake and explaining the mystery of Thomson's death.  I don't know if this tour will be offered in the summer of 2018 and beyond but you could ask for the canoe map of the lake and many of the sites are listed on it and you can discover them on your own.

Charming Little Lighthouse

We rented a 17 foot 3-seat aluminum canoe, piled some blankets on the bottom of the boat for the dachshunds and hopped into our rental canoe.  The dogs were surprisingly comfortable in the boat, probably relieved that we didn't have to do any more walking today!  It was about $25 for the 4-hour rental, and that included the life jackets and paddles and a map of the sights around the lake.  We headed out on the lake, laughing and splashing as we tried to get the hang of paddling our canoe.  It had been many decades since my summer camp canoe lessons and mastering my J-stroke!  TIP: Check out this resource for first-time canoers.  We stuck close to the shore as we headed North on the lake, passing by many docks leading up to quaint summer cottages.  We passed Popcorn Island which is the only public access island on Canoe Lake and is a great place to go swimming or stop for a break.  Then we passed by Braught's Lighthouse which was built in 1941 to help guide you past the three islands in the middle of Canoe Lake.  Once past the group of islands in the middle of Canoe Lake, the smooth waters got a bit choppy and more difficult to navigate.

Thomson Cairn Canoe Lake

The goal was to try to get to the Tom Thomson cairn on Hayhurst Point, the place where Thomson was thought to have died. This is a popular destination for art lovers to pay homage to this brilliant Canadian artist.  The memorial cairn was erected in September 1917, a few months after Thomson's death by fellow artists that ended up becoming Canada's Group of Seven painters.  The dock at Hayhurst Point is the only public dock on Canoe Lake, all others are private and belong to exclusive lodges or privately owned homes.  The dock leads to a steep path that climbs up to the memorial cairn and a totem pole.  This is also the spot where every July 17, the day of Thomson's death, at dusk or in the early morning fog, a solitary canoeman suddenly appears and silently glides by the Point only to quickly vanish again.  Some say it is Tom Thomson's ghost looking for solace.

Rental Canoe

Suddenly the wind started to pick up and we decided to head to some calmer water.  Paddling like mad against the wind and waves we decided to head to Whiskey Jack Bay.  The rental staff at the Portage Store said that this isolated bay is a great area for spotting wildlife and the narrow passage feels more like a river, offering calm waters.  Often moose, beavers, otters, herons, loons and turtles are seen within the tranquil waters of the bay.

Lotus In The Lilies

We spotted a mother loon with about ten awkward fuzzy babies following along behind her just as we entered the mouth of the bay.  The further you paddle into Whiskey Jack Bay the calmer and shallower the water became, revealing the grassy lake bottom just inches below your boat. The canoe parted lily pads and lotus flowers like a comb, and marsh birds flitted in and out of the long grasses and bullrushes.  This was a lovely and relaxing way of exploring Algonquin by canoe.

Little Penny Enjoying Her Canoe Ride

The four hours in the canoe went by so quickly!  This was an excellent introduction to a quintessential Ontario experience and the whole canoe culture of Algonquin Park.  After returning our boat to the rental dock, we decided to grab some lunch at the Portage Cafe.  The Cafe is nice, but there is also an appealing lawn with picnic tables and a small public dock located here.  It was nice to sit in the sun and watch all the boats go by while licking an ice cream.
Reflecting on the afternoon's canoe experience, I felt hungry for more.  More paddling; but for longer, and with camping gear and portages to remote backcountry campsites!  I wanted the WHOLE Ontario experience!  I wanted to stay in that Thomson painting for longer!
I went into the Portage shop and bought my self 2 essential items:  A waterproof, tear-resistant Algonquin Provincial Park ADVENTURE topographic map with all the portage routes and backcountry camping spots. Also, I bought a campfire popcorn popper-because it can't ALL be roughing it after all!

I can see more Algonquin canoe adventures in my future...

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Algonquin Park Centennial Ridges Hike

I woke up in the middle of the night to wolf howls...distant and distinct.  The shivers down my spine told me these were not dogs or even coyote howls; because we hear those at our farm almost nightly.  This was the definite mournful cry of a lone wolf in the nearby mountains.  Then about a minute later, from the opposite direction came another wolf's soul felt reply and the hair on the back of my neck stood up...

This 2:30am exchange between wolves was exhilarating.  I was wide awake for another hour waiting to hear more cries; I was even going to try to record the howls on my phone, but there was only silence after that.  I had only heard a wolf one other time; in the Caribou region of British Columbia while staying at an abandoned fishing resort.  I had imagined that the wolves of Algonquin would be way up in the remote backcountry of the park, I had no idea that wolves would be in such a populated area of the Provincial Park.

Wood Fired Bagels

After our camp breakfast of toasted bagels on a stick (don`t ask) we decided to head out for a day hike.  I filled up our water bottles and tossed them into our backpack with a dog bowl and some granola bars.  After the lovely sunset views we had from the bluff of the Lookout Loop Trail the previous evening, we were hungry for more scenic cliffs overlooking the park. We going to attempt to hike the Centennial Ridges Trail; a 10.4 km loop that wanders along two long ridges on the south side of Highway 60.

There are two access points to the trail; one accessible from Highway 60, the other trailhead is near the Coon Lake Campground. The trailhead parking lot was not full, which was an encouraging sign that the hike was not going to be overcrowded.  This was the last chance for us to use a butthut for the next 10km and to pick up an interpretive trail guide.  These trail guides are excellent because there are numbered stations along the trek for you to stop at and read information about the history and natural features along the trek.

We set off on our way through the maple forest.  I looked at the map of the Centennial Ridges Loop, but I didn't notice the elevation gains of the hike (which probably was a good thing).  There are five separate ascents and descents on the trek, and the total vertical distance you climb is 360 meters or 1,200 feet!  That's a pretty intimidating hike when you are dragging along a teenager and two senior dachshunds.

The Centennial Ridge Hike was opened in 1993 to commemorate Algonquin Parks one hundred year anniversary and honours eleven people who have helped shaped the history of Algonquin Park.  The trail climbs immediately to Founder's Ridge and you are rewarded with a stunning vista overlooking Whitefish Lake in the background and a sea of green pine trees.  Wandering along the brow of the ridge for some time, you suddenly plunge back down to the forest valley and pass a small trout lake.  You walk past huge boulders dropped here by glaciers during the last ice age.  These giant rocks are almost irresistible to climb for our teen; who apparently is half mountain goat.  Save your energy, kid-the next ridge is the toughest.

Snake Skin

The trail then heads back up again to the highest peak of the hike; MacDougall Mountain.  This peak on the East facing bluff is 560 meters or 1850 feet and has an entirely different view from the previous cliffs.  The expansive carpet of hundreds of different colours of green sprawl out before you.   After a rest and some water, the path drops down again into a grove of Red Spruce.  There are only pockets of Red Spruce in Ontario, and they grow in the Algonquin Highlands.  Our teen Liam liked to sometimes run ahead and explore on his own and return with interesting treasures.  He came across a perfectly preserved snake skin left sitting in a sunny patch by its previous owner.

Eastern Facing Bluffs

Of course, the trail again climbed up another hill to the same ridge, and the hike became a little monotonous at this point.



We did see what we thought were some peregrine falcons flying around this ridge perhaps having nests somewhere in the trees or cliffs here.  Peregrine falcons were re-introduced to Algonquin Park in 1984 as part of a Nationwide conservation effort.  These falcons were wiped out in Eastern Canada due to pesticides like DDT in the prey that the Falcons were eating.
There was also some interesting and beautiful mosses, lichens, mushrooms and ground covering flowers on the cliffs of the east bluffs.
Again, the publication of the Centennial Ridges Trail was informative to read during our water and rest breaks because we learned so much about the history of the park and the people who contributed so much of their lives to conserve this place; including politicians, rangers, artists, educators and wildlife conservationists.


By the time we dropped off the eastern ridges to little Cloud Lake we were bloody sick of this hike!  Really.  Our dachshunds were tired and kept plopping down or wanting to be carried, the kid was grumbling, and we had sweat most of our mosquito repellant off. The incentive of "let's get ice cream when we are done this hike" became an obsession in my head.  I was daydreaming about what flavours of ice cream may be available instead of being at one with nature. Once we passed the trail marker to the Coon Lake Campground turnoff, we knew there was only one last bluff left to tackle.  The final ridge of the Centennial Ridges is the most spectacular of the whole trail.  High above Whitefish Lake, the flat cliff top with its sun-warmed rocks was the perfect place to rest and gather up our strength to walk the last few kilometres to the parking lot.

Nap Time At Bryant's Bluff

TIP:  The most beautiful part of the trek through the forest and cliff top views are the LAST 3 TRAIL MARKERS (10-12).  If you are limited in time or don't want to walk the whole loop-DO THE CENTENNIAL RIDGE TRAIL BACKWARDS!  You (and your calves) will thank me!  Next time we hike the Centennial Ridges Trail we will walk the loop in the opposite direction.  Starting at the parking lot we will take a left at the fork instead of a right, passing by Rutter Lake and straight to Bryant's Bluff.

Relaxing After The Long Hike

Once back at our car, we drove straight to Lake Of Two Rivers.  Lake Of Two Rivers is the hub of Algonquin Park.  There is a store, cafe & grill, bike rental, campground, public beach and the historic Killarney Lodge which has been hosting guests in Algonquin Park since the 1930's. The Lake Of Two Rivers cafe has an ice cream parlour that serves local Kawartha Dairy ice cream.  Let me just tell you this; after 10.4 km of up & down multiple ridges all day, that double scoop of Kawartha Moose Tracks ice cream has NEVER tasted so good!  We sat outside in the evening sun enjoying our ice cream and watched as swarms of people started to arrive at Two Rivers Store.  It took me a minute to figure out what was going on, but there is take out pizza available at the cafe! What?!?  PIZZA when camping!  So much for roughing it with hot dogs and canned beans for dinner.  Some of the other campers told me the pizza was really good here and even though we were tempted,  we went back to our Kearney Lake campground for a spaghetti dinner.  It just seemed like sacrilege to have take-out when camping!

The evening slipped into night time, and we barely moved from our chairs surrounding our crackling campfire.  The usual camping delicacies were served & consumed around the fire that evening, marshmallows, JiffyPop, smores.  Somehow, this junk food always tastes better after such a physically exerting day.



Our nightly planning session for the next day's adventure was driven by one question:  How can we see Algonquin Park without having to walk anymore? Very late that night I literally crawled into the tent and then into my sleeping bag, and collapsed onto the now half-deflated Thermarest pads.  I laid still and tried to ignore my throbbing legs and hip joints, wondering if I had packed any pain relief medicine. Then the answer came to me.  Why, of course!  We can rent a canoe and explore Algonquin by water!  Somewhere far off in the distance, a lone wolf howled to acknowledge my good idea, and I smiled to myself as I drifted off into deep, restful sleep.


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Algonquin Provincial Park; A Camping Paradise

Our camp was set up under a thick canopy of maple trees and white pine. There was only the sound of birdsong, which continued until dusk when the loons took over with their lonely song on the nearby lake. Soon our little campsite became lit only by the crackling fire in the firepit.  It's not until I trekked out the washhouse where the trees are cleared that I looked up and caught my breath; the sky was SO full of gleaming stars...

Spending the night in Muskoka, I travelled through Baysville and all the way along the shores of Lake Of Bays on Highway 9.  Highway 9 wound its way along the shores of the sparkling lake, passing by simple old cottages built next to deluxe cabins that were more like gated mansions.  Highway 9 intersected with Highway 60 which is the only highway that runs through Algonquin Provincial Park.  Algonquin Park is HUGE- 7,553 square kilometres (2995 square miles), and Highway 60 only crosses the southern tip of Algonquin Provincial Park.  Most access to Algonquin Park is through canoeing and portaging.


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Jazzercise Moose

Arrival at Algonquin Provincial Park was through the West Gate where there is an information centre. This was a great place to pick up some hiking maps and general park information.  TIP:  IT IS FREE TO DRIVE THROUGH ALGONQUIN PARK, BUT IF YOU WANT TO STOP TO USE ANY OF THE FACILITIES YOU ARE REQUIRED TO PURCHASE A PARK PASS.  THIS INCLUDES STOPPING TO USE THE TOILETS.  All the information on park fees and reserving camping spots are on the Algonquin Park Website.  Reservations are always recommended, especially this year in 2018 since Algonquin Park is celebrating its 125th birthday, making Algonquin the oldest Provincial Park in Canada!  Another exciting feature at the West Park Gate was the whiteboard listing all the wild animal sightings in the last few days.  It goes something like this: May 8th at 2:30 pm black bear and cub sighted on Booth Rock Trail.  This made it real folks! I was dying to spot a moose!  I kept thinking that I saw one, but the truth is my eyesight is terrible, and my "moose" always turned out to be a burnt tree stump or some such thing.


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May The Forrest Be With You

You can choose and book your campsite through the Algonquin Park website.  TIP: The park website allows you to see pictures of the actual campsites before you book online!  This is great if you are sleeping in a tent and need a flat spot to set it up.  I chose to camp at Kearny Lake, which was about 37 km beyond Algonquin's West gate, along highway 60.  Driving past numerous lakes along the road, passing grand lodges, a store, restaurants, canoe & bike rental shops and little cottages for rent.  This seemed more like a giant private resort than a Provincial Park!  Definitely more developed than any provincial park back home in British Columbia. Campsites in Algonquin Park are about $45 a night.  Which is steep compared to what we were used to in BC.  Yet, when I compare the facilities and free programs of Algonquin Park to those we have been to in BC, I think there is still good value for the money.


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I found our campsite number and set up our little home for the next few days.  Here's a small dog owner's TIP: AN OLD PLAYPEN IS A GREAT small DOG PEN FOR CAMPING.  My son's old playpen is a clever use for our two dachshunds; it's lightweight and folds down next to nothing, making it super portable.  The pen is easy to clean and the dogs can still see out at all the action going on around them.  After camp set up, I went to the Kearney Lake ranger station to check-in and pick up some firewood.  Here's the deal:  it is prohibited to bring wood into Algonquin Park to prevent the infestation of invasive insects.  YOU MUST PURCHASE YOUR FIREWOOD INSIDE THE PROVINCIAL PARK.   I totally support this, BUT the park was charging people $6 for a bundle of soaking wet firewood (it was like they stored all the firewood underwater for a year!)  Folks were really upset because gathering around the campfire at night is what you DO when you camp, and no one could get their fires started with the soaking wet wood!


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Only In Canada

Since I couldn't get a fire going after dinner, I decided to go check out the state of the arts Algonquin Visitor Centre.  The visitor centre was built in 1993 to commemorate Algonquin Park's 100th anniversary.  There is a restaurant,  book/gift shop with a really nice selection of items (including detailed backcountry trail guides), a museum, an art gallery, a theatre with a short movie on Algonquin Provincial Park and a huge observation deck.  Because the Visitor Centre is built on a high ridge, the viewing deck is just fantastic.  There is also free Wi-Fi at the Visitor Centre (now you know where this blog is coming from).  The museum display is worth a visit and had a lot of interesting facts about local wildlife, the First People who lived in this area and the settlers who later came to Algonquin.  At least I got a chance to get up close to some moose here in the museum; I figured this could be the only moose sighting I would see in Algonquin.


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Don't forget to pick up the Algonquin newspaper with ALL the park information and maps you need for a visit to the park.  Another handout to pick up is the newsletter "This Week In Algonquin" (which is also available online at the park website).  This leaflet tells you about all the free programs available at the park during the current week like; guided walks, kids programs, movie nights, etc.
On the way back to the Kearney Lake campground we decided to make a stop at the Lookout Trail to watch the sunset.  The lookout trail is a 2km loop that climbs through the maples forests and opens up to a large rock ridge that faces westward.  It's a stunning place to catch an Algonquin sunset or to view the Autumn foliage from the high cliffs.  The trail up to the ridge itself is not long, but it is very steep. It is worth the effort to hike up to the bluff; the views are spectacular.

With the sun sinking low into the forest we head back to our campsite before it got too dark to navigate the trails safely without a flashlight.

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On the way back to Kearney lake there was a big line of cars pulled over onto the shoulder of Highway 60. I had no idea what was happening until I saw a woman pointing to a swampy area at the side of the road.  MOOSE!  It was a cow and her two calfs-twins moose babies. I thought I had died and gone to heaven!
Apparently, the little family visit this swampy area every evening when the air cools down.  It was beautiful to watch the shy moose calves play in the long grass and disappear into the trees, only to reappear a few meters away.  That Moose Momma was so calm, even with the number of spectators only 300ft away from her.  I could spend hours watching the moose trio, but the mosquitos were starting to come out in droves so I headed back to the campsite.


What a fantastic end to the day!  I thought it couldn't get any better, but when I got back to the camp someone had left a small bundle of dry firewood next to our fire pit!  Amazing.  After the campfire got going, we sat up late into the night planning out our adventures for the next day.  Visiting the washhouse that night and seeing the sky so full of stars, made me feel so grateful for where I live on this Earth.  I know there are SO many places on this globe I have yet to discover, but somehow exploring in my own backyard is always the most gratifying for me.  It gives me a sense of pride in the natural abundance we have in Canada, and it also gives ME a better understanding of what it means to be a Canadian.


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