Spring Road Trip Through Portugal

 

Lisbon has captivated me since the 2020 pandemic, when my world of travel was confined to books, Instagram posts and my laptop. The more I uncovered about Portugal's abundance of history, vibrant culture and breathtaking natural beauty beyond Lisbon, the stronger the call to explore this wonderful country became.  2026 was the time to finally answer that call.

Since this was my first visit to Portugal, I wanted to experience as many regions of this beautiful country as possible. I aimed to strike a balance between the excitement of big cities, inspiring historical sites, quaint country villages, and seaside relaxation, all of which would give me a taste of authentic Portugal. However, my dilemma was that I wanted to see it all!

I invested a lot of time into planning my itinerary, leaving little room for flexibility or spontaneous adventures, which is not typical of my "Slow Travel" style. I wanted to explore more of Portugal beyond the popular destinations of Lisbon, Porto, and the Algarve. As I researched my options, I felt overwhelmed by the choices between historical sites like castles, monasteries, and palaces.  Not to mention so many charming villages and natural parks. Ultimately, I decided to create one large circular route that would start and end in Lisbon, heading northward to explore the diverse regions.

The adventure begins in Lisbon, where I spend four days exploring the city and take a side day-trip to romantic Sintra.  Then I pick up a car at the airport and head to the Central Coast surf mecca of Nazaré for some chill time, stopping in the medieval village of Óbidos.  From Nazaré, there are some awe-inspiring historical sights to visit all within a thirty-minute drive: Tomar, Batalha and Alcobaca.

Heading North again, I made a stop in the historic University town of Coimbra for one night before arriving in Portugal's second largest city, Porto.

After spending two nights in the vibrant city of Porto, I headed inland along the Douro River to explore Portugal's most famous wine region.  Pinhão was my base for exploring the Douro River region by boat and a nearby village, Vila Nova de Foz Côa, for an archeological safari.

This is where I started to head south from the Duoro valley, to the Beira Baixa district, into the Serra da Estrella mountain range.  Perched on top of a granite mountain, my next stop is the magical village of Monsanto.

Continuing my journey South into the Alentejo region, I spend a night wandering the whitewashed streets of Évora, taking in the magnificent Roman sights. Nearby, an ancient stone circle on the outskirts of the city begs to be explored.

 

For the last portion of my trip to Portugal, I head to the country's southern coast, spending four days in the Algarve region. Based out of the charming small town of Carvoeiro, I explore the Seven Valley Hiking Trail and the famous Benagil sea caves.  

A trip to the Algarve's South Coast wouldn't be complete without a visit to what was once considered the "End of the World" of Cape Sagres, now a modern surfer haven.  

The journey concludes with returning the rental car to the Lisbon airport and spending my last night in the Olivais district of Lisbon.

Have you experienced the wonders of Portugal? I’d love to hear all about your adventures! Share in the comments what captivated you the most during your trip and your top “must-see” spots for our epic Portuguese road trip! Let's uncover the gems of this beautiful country together!

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ORVIETO~Classic Umbrian Hilltown

 

Set amidst a rolling landscape and surrounded by vineyards, Orvieto perches regally atop a rock outcrop 1000 feet above the valley floor...

Founded by the Etruscans around 500 BCE, Orvieto is thought by many archeologists to be the mysterious city of Velzna, a huge Etruscan city destroyed by the Romans. Later, when the Romans annexed the Etruscans, Orvieto became a major Roman stronghold because of its virtually impenetrable verticle cliffs. Orvieto became a refuge for the Pope and a castle during the Middle Ages. Many grand palaces and churches were built.

Today Orvieto, with its close proximity to the A1 Autostrada connecting Rome with Florence, has become quite the weekend destination for those escaping the big cities and a day-trip destination for foreign tourists.   While this gorgeously preserved Medieval hilltop town can be explored in one day, the real magic of Orvieto occurs at sunset when the crowds disperse, and the residents unwind.

To reach Orvietos Historical Center at the top of the cliffs, you can park at the funicular (near the train station) at the east end of town. There is also public parking on the west side of the cliffs, and you can take the elevator or escalator up to the top. Unless you have accommodation in the Centro Storico with complimentary parking, it is best to leave your car below, avoiding expensive parking fees and driving the very narrow one-way streets. If you decide to drive up to the centro storico, the most convenient parking lots are in the Piazza Cahen and Piazza del Duomo.

If you ride the funicular up to the old center, you are deposited at Piazza Cahen. There is an info centre here at the funicular station where you can get an Orvieto map and find information on various tours of the Orvieto Underground. The ruins of Rocca Albornoziana, a fortress from the mid-12th century, are to the left of Piazza Cahen. The view from here of the Umbrian countryside is outstanding. To your right are a public park, and beyond it, the remains of an ancient Etruscan Temple on the edge of the bluffs with more breathtaking views.  

St. Patricks Well

Towards the belvedere of the Etruscan temple remains is one of the most impressive feats of engineering in 16th century Italy; St. Patricks well. The Pozo di San Patrizio was built in 1527 by pope Clement while he stayed in Orvieto during the sack of Rome. The Pope knew the cliff walls of Orvieto would keep invaders at bay, but if they wanted to outlast an extended siege, the city would need an ample water supply. The well took only ten years to build and has a central shaft reaching down 53 metres (175 feet), and two separate paths spiral around the well. One path leads downwards, and the other spiral upwards so that mules carrying water only had one-way traffic to deal with. It's a fun workout to descend the 250 steps down, and the 70 windows offer those with slight claustrophobia some relief. The cost is €5, and the well is open 9-8. The audio guide is worth the €2 rental; bring a sweater-it's cold at the bottom!

Orvieto Cathedral

Orvieto is the perfect size town to manage by walking. The streets are flat and easy to stroll with the car-free Via Cavour or "the Corso" being the main route. Follow the Corso and listen for the Renaissance-era bells of Orvieto's Duomo or Cathedral. Glistening in gold and brightly coloured mosaics, the Duomo's facade is a feast for the eyes! Resembling Siena's Cathedral with its black & white striped marble, Orvieto's Duomo is also magnificent on the inside. Featuring frescoed ceilings started by Fra'Angelico and finished fifty years later by Luca Signorelli from the nearby Tuscan hill town of Cortona. Signorelli's masterpiece and not to be missed piece of art in Orvieto is the Chapel of San Brizio, featuring beautifully lit frescoed scenes of the Apocalypse. The entrance price for seeing the Cathedral, including the San Brizio Chapel, is €5.

Orvieto Underground

If you want more subterranean tours, The Well of The Cave (Pozzo della Cava) is a vast network of underground caverns, tunnels and wells dating back to the Roman and Etruscan civilizations of Orvieto. The tunnels provide an excellent exploring adventure for kids but are not for the claustrophobic! Self-guided tours are €4/€2.50 for children. For more information, visit pozzodellacava.it

Etruscan Tombs

There are two Etruscan burial sites at the base of Orvieto's cliff. Called a Necropolis, these are literally cities of the dead where the burial tombs look like miniature stone houses laid out in a city grid plan.  On the Southside of Orvieto is the Necropolis of Cannicella, and to the North of  the town is the Necropoli Etrusca del Crocifisso del Tufo.  This is the one I chose to visit because it had a large free parking lot and a small museum holding some of the archeological findings from the area. You can wander freely amongst the tombs that date back to the 5th century BCE and even go inside some of them. You can even see the Etruscan family name carved in stone above the tomb entrance. Tickets €3; closed Mondays & Tuesdays.

Orvieto Wine & Wine Tasting

Orvieto is known for its delicious white wines, appropriately named Orvieto Classico. A blend of 40% Grechetto, 20-40% Trebbiano (locally called Procanico) and up to 40% of other white grape blends such as Verdello and Malvasia Bianco. Orvieto Classico is a DOC wine is a pale straw colour that is light and crisp, with a delicate floral taste. There are many enoteca 0r wine bars to try different local wine varieties, including Orvieto "secco" or dry white. Another fun thing to do is tour a local vineyard and have a wine tasting. You can arrange this with the local Tourist Information Centre near the funicular station in Piazza Cahen or visit the tourist office online at orvietoviva.com to plan your tour. For more on discovering wines of Umbria, don't miss my popular blog post 7 Wines To Try In Umbria

Civita di Bagnoregio

A short 20km from Orvieto is the well-preserved Medieval village of Civita di Bagnoregio.  Considered a ghost town, Civita di Bagnoregio is nicknamed "The Dying Town" because of the gradual slide of its' perch atop a clay pillar into the steep valley below. Civita is connected by a 1 km pedestrian toll bridge crossing the canyon. It costs €5 to cross the bridge to Civita, which pays for the shoring up of the village's hillside. Stepping through the city gates is like stepping back through the mists of time; Renaissance, Medieval, Roman and Etruscan architecture blend together, becoming a fun scavenger hunt. The leisurely pace of life in Civita de Bagnoregio reminds one to slow down and enjoy the moment. Busses from Orvieto to Civita de Bagnoregio leave several times a day; check the orvietoviva.com site for the seasonal schedule. Also, check out my blog post on Civita di Bagnoregio for more information on what to see and do.

Orvieto becomes even more enchanting at night with all the day tourists from Rome gone and the historic buildings, palaces and churches delicately lit up. Stroll the Medieval city ramparts or sip a glass of wine and marvel at the Duomo. My favourite place to stay in Orvieto is La Casa di Tufo B&B right in the historic centre. I feel like I am staying with family at this charming B&B!

Orvieto is a place I stop to visit again and again. What is your favourite memory of Orvieto? The food, the wine, the architecture?

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New Year's In Italy

Carefully wading through the sea of empty prosecco bottles covering the street, we made our way towards the stage.  The music was pumping, and the crowd was dancing away and singing in unison.  It was 2am, and the party was just starting to get good.  I was standing with a few hundred Italians under the bright, almost full moon, and no other tourist was in sight.  On cue, the crowds' arms stretched up to the sky, forming a giant Y shape towards the heavens.  Was this some sort of ancient Roman cult ritual?  No, it was January 1st, and we were all dancing to The Village People, who were having fun at the...YMCA!

Speeding through the Apennine mountains in the rental car from the Medieval hill town fortress of Gubbio in Northern Umbria to the Adriatic Coast along the Via Flaminia, time was of the essence.  The Via Flaminia is the 2,200-year-old Roman road that leads from the centre of Rome through the mountainous regions of Umbria, The Marche and then to Rimini in Emilia-Romagna.  I had spent several days in Umbria leisurely following the Via Flaminia, but on New Year's Eve, I was to arrive at my "Sista From Anotha Mista," Giulia.  Giulia was waiting for me to arrive at her home in Riccione to spend our New Year's Eve in true Italian style.  
For information on the Via Flaminia, I found an excellent blog that will take you along the ancient road all the way from Rome to Rimini.  Also, most of all, the tourist offices in the towns along the Via Flaminia have maps and information you just can't find online.

Hitting the coast in Fano was quite a contrast from the snow-covered mountains of Umbria.  Not only the geography, but the buildings all seemed so....new. I expected Fano and Pesaro to look less modern than ancient Roman towns, but then again, these are swanky beach resorts for the Bolognese in the summer months.



My excitement was growing; not only did I get to see my best buddy, but we got to spend my first New Year's in Italy!  I had no idea what to expect.  I thought perhaps there were some weird Italian customs like my German family traditions, where we had to get up on a chair or coffee table during the countdown for the New Year and literally JUMP INTO the New Year!  I grew up thinking everyone did that...

Arriving in Riccione, Giulia was cooking up the customary huge Italian dinner of muscles in wine, pasta, and local fish that had just been caught earlier that morning! It was all excellent, and I thought this sumptuous dinner was the main event of the evening. However, approaching 11:00, Guilia announced that it was time to change and head to downtown Riccione for the big party!  YAAAAAAAS!



I scrambled into my "fancy" clothes, piled into the rental car and headed into Riccione's downtown area.  Riccione's superstar status is only about 80 years old.   Yes, there are some Roman ruins and ancient churches.  Still, Riccione is internationally known for its gorgeous seaside hotels, 5-star restaurants, expensive shops, famous nightclubs and some of the Adriatic's best beaches.  This is the legendary Riviera Romagnola, and the party never stops in Riccione.
The parking Gods smiled down on us, and we arrived at the hotel where Giulia's family stayed for the night.  We were lucky enough to meet Guila's family that night, including her Papa (let me tell you, this man has more energy than Giulia and I put together!).  Giulia's family is a part of Riccione's modern history, being owners of one of the first discotheques in the Savioli area. Giulia's Mom was also a DJ in a disco in the 1970s, one of Italy's first trailblazing women DJs.  These discotheques became famous and put Riccione on the map as the party capital of the Riviera Romagnola.

The prosecco was chilled and poised to pop, and desserts arrived at our table.  The next thing you know, it was 2018!  There was no countdown to midnight, like in North America.  The only way we knew it was New Year was the burst of dozens of prosecco corks popping throughout the hotel lobby and the shouts of "Auguri," which is a generic Italian saying meaning "well wishes" or "congratulations."  The whole family exchanged kisses, and  I was practicing speaking Italian, wishing everyone a "Buon Anno," which is "happy year," when I noticed many giggles of delight.  I asked Giulia what is wrong with my "Buon Anno"?  Apparently, anno is pronounced "ann-no," NOT "ano," and I had wished people a happy butthole all night.  Ah, great; well, I do hope people have happy buttholes in 2018, too!

Walking the White Carpet

Snow TeePee!

Usually, on New Year's, I would be ready for bed at 12:05, but not in Italy, of course.  We stepped outside to see the tail end of the fireworks in almost every town in Italy at midnight on New Year's.  It was a mild night perfect for walking, so the whole family headed to the main drag in Riccione, Viale Dante, to do our first "Passeggiata" of the New Year.  

TIP: A passeggiata in Italy is a leisurely stroll in the evening where you just walk up and down the main streets of a town and check out the scene.  You can do "vasche" or laps along the promenade for hours, just people-watching.


Riccione quickly became a winter wonderland, so to speak, as we passed through a giant glowing snow teepee and followed the snow path (the white fabric-lined street) past the palm trees and the twinkling lights to the central Piazza where there was a big stage set up.  Here is where it became "dangerous."   We were literally wading through an ankle-deep sea of empty prosecco bottles in high-heeled shoes towards the large crowd of folks gathered around the stage booming dance music.  It was a fantastic sight to behold; people of all ages, kids, teens, and grandparents, all having a great time.  Then, all of a sudden, a familiar song came on, and the whole crowd was rocking out to the Village People singing the YMCA!  We slid right into the sea of revellers and blended in with all the happy Italian party-goers, and it was one of those surreal moments when time stands still because you just can't believe how lucky you are to be in Italy with your best friend on New Year's!

CANDY!!!!

We decided to continue our passeggiata to an area with all the designer stores...Armani, Dolce & Gabbana, Versace.  All the shops were dolled up for the holidays, displaying mannequins in flashy club gear.  We passed by small stalls selling mulled wine, snacks and candy.  To my utter amazement, there was a small covered arcade area with kids skating AT ....2 A.M!  Back home on New Year's, I'm usually in bed at the same hour as the pre-schoolers, but here in Italy, the action never stops!  Mamma Mia!

The Saviolina

The river Melo flows through the middle of Riccione and runs into a beautiful harbour at the ocean.  There are plenty of restaurants at the pier and along the 3 km-long promenade built along the beach for pedestrians and cyclists to enjoy.  To learn more about the resort town of Riccione, visit their excellent website in English here.  We saw Giulia's historic family boat The Saviolina parked near a bridge crossing the Rio Melo it was donated to the city of Riccione as a part of her family's historical legacy.


Ultimately, I let the Italian seniors and toddlers beat me at the New Year's game.  At 3 am I had to call it quits, even though the streets were still full of people partying like it was 1999.  We all returned to the hotel where our night had started for *one more drink*, and I practiced my "Buon Anno" on people, this time without the bemused looks!  If this night was any indicator of the year ahead, then 2018 would prove to be a smashing year!


Best wishes to everyone for a prosperous and peaceful 2025, and may your travel dreams come true.🌠

Check out the Street Party In Riccione on New Years:

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Original post 03/2018