CASTLES & COBBLESTONES: 24 Hours in downtown Lisbon

 

With a castle-topped hill, lively grand squares, brightly tiled buildings, and endless views, Lisbon is a bustling wonder.  My first visit to the colourful Portuguese capital was a delightful whirlwind that left me longing for more.

Miradouro at São Jorge

Lisbon has been changing over the past 10 years.  Once a European bargain,  word has gotten out, and Lisbon is as expensive as Rome, Barcelona, or Paris. The recent increase in tourism and expats moving to Portugal has caused a lot of growing pains for Lisboetas, causing housing prices to go up and pushing locals out of the city.  There are still some authentic slices of Lisbon culture to be enjoyed and bargains to be had if you know where to look.

If you arrive in Lisbon on a Monday, know that most museums and attractions are closed. I arrived in a sunny Lisbon on an early Monday morning flight from Canada.  After purchasing my LISBOA card at the airport Information Centre that covered my free transport and attractions in Lisbon for the next three days, I hopped on the metro that took me down to the old center of Lisbon in about 30 minutes.  I rented an Airbnb in the Alfama District of Lisbon. Alfama is one of the oldest areas of Lisbon to survive after the massive 1755 earthquake that leveled the city.  Alfama is known for its steep hills, sweeping views, and iconic Castle São Jorge.  My check-in time at the Airbnb was not until 3 in the afternoon, so I stored my luggage for the day using an app on my phone called BOUNCE.  I found luggage storage very near my accommodation for about 6€ which allowed me to explore the nearby castle right away without dragging my luggage.  

The castle was built in the mid-11th century by the Moors and captured 100 years later by the first king of Portugal.  The 360-degree views of the city and the Tagus River from the battlements are the best in the city.  There is a great quiosque de refresco located under shady Umbrella Pine trees on the viewpoint terrace of the castle that serves snacks and beverages of all kinds.  Be careful not to leave your food unattended; otherwise, one of the 60 or so peacocks that free-range the fortress grounds may snitch your snack!  Peacocks have been living in the Castelo gardens since the 15th century when Portuguese explorers brought them back from India as a gift to King Manuel I.  There is a small but interesting museum on the castle grounds, along with FREE guided tours of the castle in English four times daily.  Also, if you like heights, you can climb all the way up to the very top of the castle ramparts.  

Entrance to Castelo São Jorge is open 7 days a week, 9:00-9:00 (21:00) and costs 15€ or is free with your Lisboa Card.  For more information on the castle and the FREE guided tours provided, please visit the website castelodesaojorge.pt

Walking through Alfama

Walking from the top of town through the Alfama district to the riverfront below is part of the Lisbon adventure.  Alfama is a labyrinth of narrow streets and alleyways that spill down a steep hillside.  These streets have been inhabited since Medieval Moorish times, and most of the neighbourhood surprises visitors with beautiful views and hidden squares called largos.  

I recommend taking your time exploring this vibrant neighbourhood and meandering through the winding staircases and narrow cobbled alleys.  Just make sure you have sturdy shoes!  For more info on Alfama, check out my BLOG POST on 5 Tips For First Timers Guide To Lisbon.

The heart of Lisbon to me is the sprawling waterfront square, Praça do Comércio.  Here you will find the elegant Arco da Rua Augusta, ushering the busy, iconic pedestrian street Rua Augusta down to the Tagus River.  Rua Augusta is packed with shops, outdoor cafes, and chic boutiques, and it's fun to meander up the street following the Calçada portuguesa, which is the traditional black-and-white mosaic cobblestones.  

Praça do Comércio

Arco da Rua Augusta

One of the best viewpoints, or miradouros, in Lisbon is the view from atop Arco da Rua Augusta. The entrance to the arch is located on Rua Augusta on the right side as you walk through the arch from Praça do Comércio.  It is €4.50 or FREE with your LISBOA card. An elevator takes you up to the clock room, and then a very narrow flight of stone spiral stairs leads up to the outdoor observation deck.  The staircase is so narrow it does not allow for 2 way traffic, so there is a "traffic light" system in place where you push a button to get a green light to go up or down the staircase.  The 360-degree views of Lisbon from the top of the arch are spectacular.  The arch is open daily from 10:00 am to 7:00 pm.

Rua Augusta from the top of the Arch

Praça do Comércio is also home to the LISBOA STORY CENTRE & MUSEUM, an interactive museum where you can learn about the city's history, including the 1755 earthquake that changed Lisbon forever.  At the south end of  Praça do Comércio, you will see some marble columns and steps leading directly into the Tagus River.  These steps are called Cais das Colunas, and they mark the historic spot where royals and dignitaries would enter Lisbon.  Praça do Comércio is also a lovely spot to take a break, soak up the sun, and people-watch. There is a nice gelato shop under the beautiful 18th-century arcades and also the oldest cafe in Lisbon, called Martinho da Arcada, which opened in 1782.  The drinks in this square are not cheap; you are looking at €10-€14 for a spritz or Caipirinha, but if you walk 8 minutes down the road to Pink Street, drinks will be a fraction of the cost!

Praça do Comércio is also where you would catch your tram (the 15E tram) Westbound to Belém. I decided to dedicate a whole day to exploring this historic neighbourhood of Lisbon. See separate POST on Belém.

Sé de Lisboa

On the way back to my Airbnb in the Alfama District, the Lisbon cathedral, or Sé de Lisboa, sits perched on a hill overlooking the city.  The word Sé in Portuguese means cathedral or seat of a diocese, referring to the Latin word sedes meaning seat. The Cathedral was built in 1147 after the siege of Lisbon to reclaim the city from the Moors, making the Sé the oldest church in the city.  It took roughly 200 years to build the Romanesque-style church, but it features Gothic elements like its 14th-century cloister and later Baroque additions. This makes Lisbon's Sé an eclectic architectural masterpiece.  The Sé was severely damaged in the 1755 earthquake and subsequent fires, destroying priceless pieces of art.  Luckily, the church was situated high enough up the Alfama hillside to escape the tsunami that followed the subsequent disaster.

Inside the austere, somber cathedral is a gorgeous stained-glass rose window that was replicated in the 1930s from historical drawings after the original was destroyed in the 1755 earthquake.   I love this window because it allows light and colour into the otherwise dim and fortress-like interior of the church.  There is a 3-room treasury museum upstairs after you go through the ticket booth that has some interesting artifacts, and the views of the nave and the church below are impressive, but don't miss the outside balcony that spans the facade of the Cathedral.  Look for a small door opposite the treasury to step out on the narrow balcony for a superb view of the Baixa district and the Tagus River.

 

View From The Choir

The cathedral is open Monday to Saturday, November to March, 10am- 6 pm 

April to October: 9:30am - 7pm.  

Closed on Sundays and Holy Days, including Christmas and New Year's Day

Ticket prices are €7 or €5 with the LISBOA card (it used to be free with the Lisboa card), plus you can pay an extra €3 for an interactive smartphone guided tour app.

Check the website for the Cathedral HERE

Inside the Sé de Lisboa

Making the uphill trek that winds through the medieval alleys of Alfama is difficult after a long day of walking and sightseeing.  The reward is a stunning sunset view over Lisbon's red tiled rooftops and the Tagus River. Two of the most charming miradouros sit almost next to each other, connected by a scenic walkway running along the old Moorish city wall.  Miradouro de Santa Luzia and Miradouro das Portas do Sol.  There are Quiosques or outdoor cafe kiosks serving coffee, beer, wine, sangria, and light snacks at both of these miradouros, so you can take a moment to relax after your climb.  The quiosques usually close around sunset, but the Portas do Sol quiosque often stays open a bit later into the evening during warmer months.

 

Amalia Rodrigues mural

After freshening up for dinner, the Alfama calls out to me to be explored by night.  After dark, Alfama transforms into a moody, atmospheric maze with the smell of grilled fish and live Fado music spilling out of taverns.  At every turn, there are dimly lit cobblestone alleys and glowing lanterns that create a romantic, ageless ambiance that feels far away from modern Lisbon.  I had fun wandering the medieval streets and stopping in at several taverns to have petiscos, which are like appetizers, meant for sharing, much like Spanish tapas.  Many small taverns and dedicated casas do fado throughout Alfama offer live Fado performances in the evenings.  One of my favourite casas do fado was Alma Do Fado Alfama just minutes down the hill from Castelo de São Jorge.

Whether you come to Lisbon for the history, food, unforgettable views or for the haunting melodies of Fado, Portugal's capital city has a way of staying with you long after you leave.  What was your favourite memory of Lisbon? Share it in the comments below!

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Arva Flour in South West Ontario

Happy 200th birthday to a piece of Ontario history!  Arva flour mill is a step back through time to a time when GMO-free, locally sourced, organic wheat was what made the daily bread.

My first Valentine's Day in Ontario! I thought a romantic way to spend the day would be to become a tourist in our local area.  Now, when I was a little girl, I was obsessed with Little House On The Prairie; I even asked for an oil lamp for Christmas when I was 6 or 7!  I still have my glass oil lamp Santa so kindly brought me.  (Ya, I was a weird kid!)  So visiting the Arva Flour Mill was like stepping back through time .... to Laura Ingalls Wilder's world.

Checking Out The Massive Icicles

I learned about the Arva Flour Mill in Southwestern Ontario, from the local Historical Society. The Arva Mill has a reputation for producing the best flour in Ontario, and since I love to bake, I had to check this place out! The Arva flour mill was built in 1819 and is the oldest continuously running flour mill in all of Ontario; maybe even North America!  Arva's location is just North of London,  which means it's a quick jump onto highway 401 and in less than an hour's drive from our door, we were in Arva.

Brrrrr!

Now, this was my first Winter in Ontario, and it was the coldest day of that year.  At -33 C (-26F) we didn't get a chance to explore the village of Arva itself very much other than a quick drive through, but it looked charming!  Arva was named after The Arva mill is situated on the banks of Medway Creek, on what locals call "The Mill Pond." The pond seems like it would be an excellent spot for a picnic in the summer months. This site is where the Arva Mill's tagline comes from: "The Best Flour By A Dam Site." 😉

Equipment At The Mill

Entrance To The MillHouse Store 

Going down the driveway to the mill parking lot, I was surprised at how big the mill actually is. Of course many silos on site, but I was aching to roam around and see the flour mill in action!  No such luck. The mill's store is open on Sundays, but they don't do any milling on that day.  So I had to be content with peeking through the glass doors and taking photos of the millhouse.  Around the year 1904, the Arva Mill replaced their original grist millstone to "new" (now vintage) roller mills, and it's the same rollers used to mill Arva flour today! This is the secret to the flour's fantastic consistency.  The Arva mill was still half powered by the water from Medway creek until the pandemic hit in 2020 and the demand for flour to make that sourdough bread at home hit.  Imagine that; not much had changed for this mill in 100 years until the sourdough bug hit us all as we were confined to our homes.  The Arva Flour Mill is now owned by the 5th generation of the Scott family, and in 2022 the Arva Mill aquired Red River Cereal!

The Arva MillHouse store was terrific too.  The shelves were full of different types of organic flours, dried goods such as beans, fruit, baking supplies and all kinds of pasta. All the flour milled at Arva comes from small surrounding local farms that provide non-GMO wheat to the mill. Also, the Arva mill prides itself on the fact that there are no additives or preservatives to their flour.  The store has a Health food section and huge gluten-free product selections as well.

I know people are marvelling about Arva's flour; maybe it's because they take the time to do things the old fashioned way and the flour is all natural.  Among other items, we bought a 50 pounds bag of Arva all-purpose flour, 10 lbs bag of pastry flour and 5lbs each of light and dark rye flour; which I find hard to find in the grocery stores here in Ontario.  You can also get farm eggs from a fridge in the back as well as some other local dairy products.

There is also a new RED RIVER CAFE that opened up in 2024 in the former livery stable on the Arva Mill site.  The bakery offers a place to stop in for a coffee and enjoy baked goods made from the flour milled on site at the flour mill.

To check out the Arva flour mill:  www.arvaflourmill.com

2042 Elgin Street

Arva, Ontario N0M 1C0

Telephone: 519-660-0199 

Monday-Saturday 9am-3pm

Sunday 10am-3pm

FYI  the baking turned out FANTASTIC!  Thank you ARVA flour mill!

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Updated from the original post February 14, 2015

5 Tips For First Timer's To Lisbon, Portugal

 

With a castle-topped hill, lively grand squares, brightly tiled buildings, and endless views, Lisbon is a bustling wonder.  My first time in the colourful  Portuguese capital was a delightful whirlwind that left me longing for more.

Lisbon has been changing over the past 10 years.  Once the Portuguese capital was a European bargain, but the word has gotten out, and Lisbon is as expensive as Rome, Barcelona or Paris. The recent increase in tourism and expats moving to Portugal has caused a lot of growing pains for Lisboetas, driving up housing prices and pushing locals out of the city.  There are still some authentic slices of Lisbon culture to be enjoyed if you know where to look.

For a first-time visit to Lisbon, I recommend at least a 3-night stay; 5 nights would be ideal if you have the time. International travellers will most likely arrive at Humberto Delgado Airport in Lisbon.  It's a bustling hub about a 15-20 minute ride from the downtown area. In the arrivals hall, right after you clear customs, there is a tourist information center where you can grab some maps, purchase a LISBOA card, and get up-to-date information that may not be in a guidebook or on any tourist websites.  

TIP #1 THE LISBOA CARD is an all-in-one attraction/transportation card that allows you to use all public transport, like subway, buses, trams, funiculars and even trains, as well as entry into 51 museums and monuments.  The LISBOA card is available in 24 hours for 31€, 48 hours for 51€  and 72 hours for 62€ validity windows. I purchased a 72-hour LISBOA card that lasted the duration of my stay. The card ended up saving me a lot of time, money and hassle of buying a separate public transit card. Many museums let you skip the ticket lines with the LISBOA card, which can save you hours.  The LISBOA card is valid from the first time it is used to enter an attraction or public transportation.  

BE AWARE: MOST ATTRACTIONS IN LISBON ARE CLOSED ON MONDAYS!

TIP #2 GETTING AROUND LISBON  I found the best way to get from the airport to central Lisbon is the subway. In 2026, the cost was €1.90 plus a €.50 for the reloadable Navegante card that allows you to zap on and off the public transport.  I used my LISBOA card, which I purchased at the airport when I landed. There are only 4 metro lines that service Lisbon, making it simple to navigate the city, and it only took me 30 minutes during morning rush hour to get to my accommodation.  Taxis are expensive during rush hour, and yes, you can get ripped off easily. It costs about €20 to get from the airport to central Lisbon.  There are also two popular ride-share apps in Portugal: Uber and BOLT.  Bolt is cheaper and more popular than taxis or even Uber, and even delivers food.  For example, it only cost me €8 to get back to the airport when it was time to leave Lisbon.  That's less than half the price of a taxi! 

For all things transportation in Lisbon, there is a really helpful YouTube channel called: "ROAD TRIP SPAIN & PORTUGAL"  linked: HERE 

Tip #3 CHOOSE FOOTWARE WISELY  Like Rome, Lisbon is known as "The City of the Seven Hills," but unlike Rome, these hills are incredibly steep and will leave your calves burning! Be aware that the danger levels increase for slips when the beautiful polished white Limestone and black Basalt cobblestones called calçada become wet with rain or humidity, they turn incredibly slick. Look for Escadinhas da Saúde, which are outdoor public escalators. You can even set your route navigation in Google Maps to wheelchair accessible in your route options, to show you a route using escalators, funiculars and elevators that are sometimes located inside public buildings.  A fun way to take a break from walking is to ride one of the vintage trams back to your accommodations.  If you want to ride the iconic Tram 28, do so early in the day or not at all.  The lines of tourists trying to cram like Portuguese sardines into the tram are not a fun experience.

    

  

TIP #4 GET LOST IN ALFAMA & MOURARIA       These two districts are the oldest areas of  Lisbon that survived the 1755 earthquake.  I stayed at an Airbnb in the Alfama district of Lisbon, so I could explore the Medieval charm and narrow pedestrian streets in the evening after a day of sightseeing.  There are many authentic traditional restaurants called Tasca's in this area.  Lisbon's Castelo São Jorge was a short walk away through the maze-like streets. Arriving in Lisbon on a Monday morning, most attractions covered by the Lisboa Card are CLOSED.  São Jorge Castle is open 7 days a week from 9 am-9 pm, and has some of the most fantastic views of the city.  

Alfama is also the home of Fado music, a traditional folk blues that is usually performed in restaurants and bars.   I went to Alfama Grill that had wonderful Fado singing starting around 6-7 pm.  If you are interested in the tradition of Fado, don't miss the Museum of Fado: museudofado.pt

Tip #5 ADJUST YOUR EATING TIMES Breakfast in Portugal is quick and light. Your traditional egg custard tarts, called pastéis de nata, are enjoyed with your coffee and later as a snack (lanche) in the afternoon around 4 pm.  Lunch is between 12:30 and 3 pm, often a quick hot pork sandwich on a crusty roll called a bifana that people line up for at a lunch counter.  Dinner is usually at night between 8 and 10 pm, which can be late for many North Americans.  The waiter will bring the table an appetizer called a couvert.  This is not free and will be added to your bill if you do not tell your waiter no thank you.  Dinner in Lisbon is a hearty, relaxed affair when you can linger over delicious house wine and grilled seafood. The menu will always have bacalhau or cod and sardine dishes that are staples in all Lisbon restaurants.

Stay tuned for more practical planning advice for Lisbon and the rest of Portugal!

 I hope these tips have been helpful in planning your first trip to the radiant city of Lisbon.  If you would like to add a tip for folks, please leave them in the comments below.

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Spring Road Trip Through Portugal

 

Lisbon has captivated me since the 2020 pandemic, when my world of travel was confined to books, Instagram posts and my laptop. The more I uncovered about Portugal's abundance of history, vibrant culture and breathtaking natural beauty beyond Lisbon, the stronger the call to explore this wonderful country became.  2026 was the time to finally answer that call.

Since this was my first visit to Portugal, I wanted to experience as many regions of this beautiful country as possible. I aimed to strike a balance between the excitement of big cities, inspiring historical sites, quaint country villages, and seaside relaxation, all of which would give me a taste of authentic Portugal. However, my dilemma was that I wanted to see it all!

I invested a lot of time into planning my itinerary, leaving little room for flexibility or spontaneous adventures, which is not typical of my "Slow Travel" style. I wanted to explore more of Portugal beyond the popular destinations of Lisbon, Porto, and the Algarve. As I researched my options, I felt overwhelmed by the choices between historical sites like castles, monasteries, and palaces.  Not to mention so many charming villages and natural parks. Ultimately, I decided to create one large circular route that would start and end in Lisbon, heading northward to explore the diverse regions.

The adventure begins in Lisbon, where I spend four days exploring the city and take a side day-trip to romantic Sintra.  Then I pick up a car at the airport and head to the Central Coast surf mecca of Nazaré for some chill time, stopping in the medieval village of Óbidos.  From Nazaré, there are some awe-inspiring historical sights to visit all within a thirty-minute drive: Tomar, Batalha and Alcobaca.

Heading North again, I made a stop in the historic University town of Coimbra for one night before arriving in Portugal's second largest city, Porto.

After spending two nights in the vibrant city of Porto, I headed inland along the Douro River to explore Portugal's most famous wine region.  Pinhão was my base for exploring the Douro River region by boat and a nearby village, Vila Nova de Foz Côa, for an archeological safari.

This is where I started to head south from the Duoro valley, to the Beira Baixa district, into the Serra da Estrella mountain range.  Perched on top of a granite mountain, my next stop is the magical village of Monsanto.

Continuing my journey South into the Alentejo region, I spend a night wandering the whitewashed streets of Évora, taking in the magnificent Roman sights. Nearby, an ancient stone circle on the outskirts of the city begs to be explored.

 

For the last portion of my trip to Portugal, I head to the country's southern coast, spending four days in the Algarve region. Based out of the charming small town of Carvoeiro, I explore the Seven Valley Hiking Trail and the famous Benagil sea caves.  

A trip to the Algarve's South Coast wouldn't be complete without a visit to what was once considered the "End of the World" of Cape Sagres, now a modern surfer haven.  

The journey concludes with returning the rental car to the Lisbon airport and spending my last night in the Olivais district of Lisbon.

Have you experienced the wonders of Portugal? I’d love to hear all about your adventures! Share in the comments what captivated you the most during your trip and your top “must-see” spots for our epic Portuguese road trip! Let's uncover the gems of this beautiful country together!

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