Driving Ireland's Ring Of Kerry

The Ring of Kerry is famous as the quintessential slice of West Coast Ireland.  It is 179 km of breathtaking views of ocean cliffs, castles, ring forts, charming villages and Killarney National Park containing picturesque lakes and the highest mountain in Ireland.

Ring of Kerry Drive

The ring of Kerry is the N-70 Road that circumnavigates the Iveragh Peninsula and is one of the most popular tourist attractions in Ireland.  Giant tour buses circle the Ring of Kerry each day leaving Killarney and travel in a counterclockwise direction, clogging up the narrow roads.  If you wish to explore the Ring of Kerry you have three options:  rent a car, take an organized coach tour, or take the Bus Éireann public bus.  Killarney is the biggest town on the Ring of Kerry and has the bus and train station.  The bus station and the Tourist Info centre is where all the big tour coach operators leave from and if you wish to take the Bus Éireann public bus you are a bit limited.  The public bus departs daily at 12:45 (July-Sept) and returns you to Killarney at 5:45. While the cost is only €23, the bus only stops to drop off/pick up passengers except for an hour stop in the cute little seaside town of Sneem.  You would be better off taking a minivan tour from Kenmare for €30 with Finnegan's Tours.  Check the schedule: www.kenmarecoachandcab.com  If you decide to drive the Ring of Kerry yourself, factor in about 4.5 hours without any stops.  A  good Ordnance Survey Road Atlas is an essential tool and sold in most tourist info centres for about €13.

Kerry Cows

When driving the Ring of Kerry, most people advise you to set out in the same direction as the tour buses; counter-clockwise.  Since we were staying at an Airbnb on the Ring of Kerry (aka N-70) near the tiny village of Kells, we started off in the morning driving in a counter-clockwise direction and luckily missed most of the tour buses; venturing off the beaten path by cutting over to Valentia Island or veering off the N-70 to drive the Skellig Ring Loop (R-565).  Also, taking a small detour such as Staigue Ring Fort can bypass much of the mega-bus traffic.  Since most people will be leaving from Killarney, we will start there and travel towards Killorglin.

Killorglin

Killorglin's Puck Fair

The first major town you will come across is Killorglin; a sweet little market town that happened to be all decorated for the world-famous Puck Fair.   The Puck Fair happens every year on August 10-12 and is one of Irelands oldest fair.  A "Puck" is a wild male goat that is caught in the nearby mountains and brought back to Killorglin.  The Puck is crowned "King" for the fair by "The Queen of Puck" which is a local schoolgirl voted Queen for the year.  The Puck is then put in a cage on a high platform to watch the entire fair and later released into the mountains once again after it is all over; thinking "WTF just happened to me?!?"  This fair is a pre-Christian festival that falls near the Pagan Sabbat of Lughnasa which symbolizes the beginning of the Harvest season.  The goat is a Pagan fertility symbol, and during The Puck Fair women were encouraged to ask the men out for a date.  It's a grand time with musicians, carnival rides, food vendors and a midway. Also, all the pubs stay open until 3 am!  Check it out at www.puckfair.ie

Skellig Ring Road

View of Skellig Michael 

Leaving Killorglin towards Cahersiveen, you travel along the water overlooking the Dingle Peninsula and Dingle Bay. At Cahersiveen there are two iron age Ring Forts; Cahergal and Leacanabuaile.  These two Ring Forts of Cahersiveen are easier to get to then Staigue Fort which is further along on the Ring of Kerry.  Just past Cahersiveen is Valencia Island and a few kilometres down the road is the turnoff to The Skellig Ring Road (R-565) towards Portmagee and the jumping-off point for Skellig Michael.  If you are planning to see Skellig Michael while driving the Ring of Kerry, I would recommend spending two days driving around the Ring and spend a night on the Skellig Coast.  Try Airbnb.com or bnbireland.com for bed and breakfast booking information.

Eightercua Stone Row

Stone  Row With Bull Keeping Watch

There are traces of ancient Ireland everywhere on the Ring of Kerry.  Just outside of Waterville there is a megalithic stone alignment called Eightercua.  Dated back to 1700 BCE, these four giant stones are on the East side of the N-70 on private property...which has a big old bull on it.  You can see Eightercua from the road, or you can always drive up to the farmhouse and ask permission to walk the land to the Stone Row.  Since I was wearing a bright red raincoat, I thought it would be best to skip Eightercua in case the bull got any ideas!

Close Up Of Eightercua

We decided instead to take a small side trip to Staigue Ring Fort. The turnoff to Staigue Fort is at Castle Cove where you will find a delightful pub and cafe along the way.  Grab a "cuppa" (tea) here before you explore the stone ring fort set upon a windy hill.  The 4km road leading to Staigue Ring Fort is so small that it often resembles a small alleyway.  Go slow and prepare to reverse at least a dozen times to a small pullout to let oncoming cars pass.  From the parking lot, there is a short path flanked with wild fuchsias leading over a bridge to a livestock gate and an honour system pay box asking for €1 to enter the stone ring fort.  

Staigue Ring Fort

The Path To Staigue Ring Fort

Situated overlooking Kenmare Bay, Staigue Fort is one of the grandest ring forts in Ireland.  There is conflicting information on when it was built, Bronze Age or Iron Age and whether it was made for defence purposes or religious.  In any case, the plaque on sight stated that Staigue Fort was constructed between 500 b.c.e and 300 c.e.   Chieftans would have the need to protect their clans and their valuable cattle herds from rustlers and invaders coming up the coast.  There is an ancient ditch dug around Staigue Fort which archeologists suggest is for defensive purposes. There are a lot of copper deposits in South West Ireland where the prehistoric sights are so plentiful.  You can't have the Bronze Age (3000-1500 b.c.e) without mixing copper with tin to make the bronze weapons; so I reckon the Stone Fort is around that old-but I'm not Indiana Jones...  





The coolest thing about Staigue Fort is the walls.  They are massive; 18 feet high and 13 feet thick with ten X shape flights of stairs leading to the ramparts which you can climb up on and walk the circumference of the ancient ring fort.  AND Staigue ring fort is made by dry-wall stone technique-not an ounce of mortar was used in building the 90-foot ring!!!  

Kenmare

The small town of Kenmare is cute and colourful.  In Gaelic, Kenmare is called Neidín which means "little nest" and sits at the head of Kenmare Bay.  Kenmare is a great place to stop and have some lunch, with many choices of great pubs serving lunch.  The steamed muscles caught fresh from the Bay of Kenmare is the local specialty and is worth making a stop for!  There is also some great shopping in Kenmare with traditional woollen wear and Kenmare's exquisite lacemaking tradition that put Kenmare on the map for Irish lace.  If you fancy a walk in Kenmare, try walking to the end of Market Street where there is a 3000-year-old stone circle that is one of the largest stone circles in South West Ireland.  

Kenmare Stone Circle

This 15 stone ring has a dolmen centrepiece that is thought to be a burial monument.  The circle is a celestial calendar that determines the two Solstices in June and December, marking the year's longest and shortest days of the year.  The monument is open all the time, and there is a €2 honour box at the entry hut where there is more information about the circle.

Killarney National Park

Old Growth Forest In Killarney Park

Killarney National Park is just south of the town of Killarney.  The N-70 you have been following changes to the N-71 just past Kenmare as it heads into the most mountainous stretch of The Ring of Kerry.  On the way from Kenmare to Killarney Park, you will drive through Moll's Gap where there is a pull-out to view Carrauntoohil, Ireland's tallest mountain.  This is a hiker's paradise!  Beyond this, you will arrive in Irelands oldest National Park, established in 1932 when Muckross Estate was donated to the state. 

Torc Waterfall, Killarney Park

A nice little walk in the lush Killarney forest is Torc Waterfall.  Look for the parking lot (or more likely, find a spot on the side of the road) and the trailhead. A hiking trail leads you gently upward through old growth Oak, Yew, Alder and Rhododendron trees.  Torc waterfall is only a 10-minute uphill walk from the parking lot, but you can go beyond the waterfall for more strenuous 60 and 90-minute loop walks.

Another fun activity is to hire a jaunting car and tour around Muckross House and Abbey.  A jaunting car is a horse-drawn two-wheeled cart that was the traditional transportation at one time in Ireland.  We hired our horse Gerry who kindly allowed his "jarvey" or driver to take us around the grounds of Muckross House, Muckross Farm and the abandoned medieval Muckross Abbey.  A 45-minute jaunting car tour costs about €40-45 and a 2-hour tour €60 in the peak season (you can bargain a little in offseason).  Depending on the size of the cart you can usually have up to 4 or 5 people in the vehicle plus a driver. 

Jaunting Cart At Muckross House

Another cheaper option to a jaunting car tour in Killarney park is to rent bicycles in Killarney to tour the grounds of the Muckross Estate.  I recommend spending your time exploring the natural beauty of Killarney Park rather than the town of Killarney which felt to me like one big tourist trap full of chain hotels and strip malls.
Once past the town of Killarney, the N-71 road becomes the N-72 that takes you back to the village of Killorglin, and your Ring of Kerry drive is over.



I hope you enjoy your tour around Ireland's iconic Ring of Kerry!  Let me know in the comments below what your favourite stop on the Ring was!

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Storytime: The Irish Myth of Sadhbh

Sometimes a travel destination can be understood through its heroes (or sheroes), myths or legends.  Ireland's pre-Christian history survived as myths. Gods and Goddesses become heroes and warriors become the subject of songs that the bards wrote poems and sang songs about.  These myths are connected to the land and to place, bridging the past to the present.  One such tale is that of Sadhbh...

Gather round the turf fire all cozy like; for the Seanchaí has arrived. 

Gathering Around The Seanchai

What is a Seanchaí?  Well in English the word is pronounced like "Shawn-na-key," and in Old Irish, it is  Seanchaidhean, which means "bearer of old lore."  In the Celtic tradition, history and myth were not written down. Instead, history was memoried in a series of long lyric poems.  In the time of the Clans, the Seanchaí had a place of honour keeping track of valuable information for their Chieftan.  As the power of the Clans dwindled, the Seanchaí set out travelling the countryside with their select repertoire of legends, myths and stories and would be invited into homes to recount their sagas in exchange for room and short-term board.

So then, pour the Seanchaí a wee glass of poitín and listen to the tale of Sadhbh...

Sadhbh by Arthur Rackham 1910

Sadhbh (pronounced S-eye-v and rhymes with hive) was the daughter of the High King of the Síd of Munster.  The Síd (pronounced Shee) were a race of indigenous people that disappeared from history, and Irish myth has them as what we would call the Faerie People.  Sadhbh was a beautiful young girl and had gained the attention of a mighty Druid named Fer Doirich, The Dark Druid of the Tuatha Dé Danann.  The Tuatha Dé Danann (or the people of the Goddess Danu) are the pantheon of Celtic Gods and Goddesses of the pre-Christian era in Ireland, sort of like the Olympians in Greek mythology.  Fer Doirich wanted Sadhbh as his bride, but she was still a maiden and refused his advances. This refusal enraged The Dark Sorcerer who cursed Sadhbh, turning her into a doe leaving her to the wild to be hunted by wolves and ripped apart!

Poor young Sadhbh ran terrified, into the forest.  There, she survived for three years in the form of a deer until she came upon the lands of the mythical warrior king of the Fianna; Fionn mac Cumhaill (or Finn MacCool in English).

Tuiren With Bran And Sceolan

Now, Fionn mac Cumhaill was out hunting on his lands with his men and his two enchanted Celtic Hounds Bran and Sceolan (pronounced Shkih-oh-lawn).  These giant Celtic Hounds were similar to Irish Wolfhounds but bigger. These two dogs had a human mother; Tuiren who happened to be Fionn's Aunt who had been turned into a hound by a jealous Síd woman.  Tuiren was pregnant at the time of her enchantment, and she gave birth to the twin hounds Bran and Sceolan. Fionn vowed to take care of his canine cousins, and the twin brother and sister became his loyal companions that never left his side.  

Ring Fort at Cahersiveen

When Bran and Sceolan came across Sadhbh in the form a doe, they could recognize that she was a human caught in animal form.  Instead of trapping or killing her, the great dogs lay down beside her and protected her from the Fianna hunters.  When Fionn saw this, he knew there was something special about this little doe, so he softly spoke to the deer, telling her he was taking her back to his Fort called Almhuin (pronounced AL-whin) for protection.  To Fionn's surprise, the deer got up and followed him all the way back to the ring fort!  
That night Fionn and the rest of the Fianna arrived back at Almhuin.  As soon Sadhbh entered the fort she shed her deerskin and stood up tall and once again assumed her human form as a beautiful young woman!



Fionn mac Cumhaill fell immediately in love with the gentle Sadhbh, for "Sadhbh" means "sweet and lovely" in Irish.  For months Fionn and Sadhbh were in the throughs of passion and Fionn gave up hunting, sport and all other pleasures; rarely did the couple stray far from the bedchamber.  Sadhbh became pregnant and refused to leave the walls of the fort, fearing the Dark Druids magic would find her.  For close to one year, Fionn and Sadhbh lived in a bubble of love and bliss revelling in each other's company.

And they lived happily ever after?  Not a chance lads and lasses!

Fionn mac Cumhaill by Stephen Reid

But their bliss was not to last.  Vikings were raiding the Kerry coastline, and Fionn mac Cumhaill and the Fianna went to defend Ireland from the Northern invaders.  Fionn was saddened to leave Sadhbh knowing she carried his child, and he assured her that he would hurry back to Almhuin.  Sadhbh anxiously waited for Fionn, every day the expectant mother walked along the walls of the stone fort watching for Fionn to return from battle.  On the fourth night after Fionn had left for the coast,  Sadhbh was on top of the walls surrounding the fort when she saw the figure of Fionn approaching under the full moon.  Sadhbh was overjoyed to see her beloved returning to her, and heavy with child now, she ran out to greet Fionn mac Cumhaill and take him into her arms.  
But it was not Fionn.
It was the Dark Druid Fer Doirich cloaked in a magical glamour appearing to all as Fion mac Cumhaill.  The Dark One had learned of "the deer that turned into a maiden" and came to seek revenge on Sadhbh.  Pulling a hazel wand from beneath his cloak as Sadhbh approached, Fer Doirich touched her with his wand and Sadhbh immediately turned back into a doe.  The Sorcerer put a rope around Sadhbh's neck and led her off into the night. 

Fionn Searched For His Beloved

After seven days of battle with the Vikings, Fionn mac Cumhaill returned to Almhuin only to learn that his beloved Sadhbh was missing.   Fionn searched the grounds of the Fort and the surrounding settlement, but all he found was her night shift on the ground outside the stone walls of the dún or fort.  Fionn knew that Sadhbh's disappearance must have been the work of the Tuatha Dé Danann's dark magic and set off immediately with Bran and Sceolan and a handful of the best Fianna hunters to find his beloved mate.

For seven years Fionn mac Cumhaill roamed the countryside in search of his beloved, but every day ended in a fruitless search.  Fionn's heart became heavier and heavier with grief as each passing year went by, but Fionn refused to give up looking for Sadhbh.  

Sadhbh and Oisín

Then after seven years Fionn and his Fianna hunters came across a child in the nearby mountains.  Fionn's enchanted Celtic hounds Bran and Secolan approached the young boy and laid down at his feet, astonishing the group of hunters.  The boy did not know how to speak and was apparently a wildling living in the forest.  Upon closer inspection, Fionn saw that the boy had the same features as his lost love Sadhbh and he decided to take the boy back to Almhuin.





As the months passed the wild boy learned how to speak, and he told Fionn about how he was raised by a gentle deer in the forest.  Fionn realized this was his son named him Oisín (pronounced 0h-SHEEN) which means "young deer" in Irish, in honour of his mother Sadhbh who was never seen from again.  Oisín grew to become one of Irelands greatest poets and a fierce warrior of the Fianna.  Stories and myths of Oisín are still told in Ireland to this day, many of the poems are attributed to the writings of Oisín himself.

Legend has it the little town of Cahersiveen located on the Ring of Kerry is named after Sadhbh.  In Irish Cahersiveen is Cathair Saidhbhín; Cathair = stone ringfort and Saidhbhín = little Sadhbh.  In other words, Little Sadhbh's Ringfort.  This name captured my imagination, as there are two ancient stone ringforts on the outskirts of the town of Cahersiveen.  Were these ringforts part of Almhuin, legendary home of Fionn mac Cumhaill and the Fianna?  


I went to Leacainabuaile ringfort and its sister ringfort Cahergall on the Ring of Kerry, and the myth of Sadhbh came alive for me.   Standing on the ancient stone walls looking out towards the sea, I could almost FEEL the angst the pregnant Sadhbh endured while waiting for her beloved to return to her from battle.  The ringforts have a heavy and forlorn feeling to them that emotes heartache throughout the centuries; this feeling is echoed by the hauntingly beautiful landscape of Cahersiveen. 
In this place, Fionn and Sadhbh's love will live on forever.

Have you ever deepened your travel experience through a myth?  I would love to hear about it in the comments below...

Leacanabuaile Ring Fort Near Cahersiveen

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How To Book A Tour To Skellig Michael

Skellig Michael has become one of Ireland's biggest tourist attractions thanks to the recent Star Wars movies The Force Awakens and The Last Jedi.  The current interest in Skellig Micheal has tourists scrambling for tickets, leaving many unprepared visitors disappointed.  Here's a guide to The Skelligs to ensure you will be able to experience one of the most magnificent spots in the world.

Skelligs From The Mainland

Have you ever wanted to be Indiana Jones?  That is exactly who you feel like when you climb the ancient stone steps to an early Christian monastery set on top a pointy rock in the Atlantic.  The two remote islands called the Skelligs are 12 km off the West Coast of County Kerry.  The large Island is Skellig Michael and the smaller uninhabited island is Little Skellig and together they are one of Ireland's UNESCO World Heritage Sites (the other is Brú Na Bóinne). Reaching the monastery on Skellig Michael is not easy, it requires visitors to climb over 600 treacherous hand-carved steps.  

WHAT TOUR DO I BOOK?

The tourist season for the Skelligs runs from Spring to Fall, with the summer months of June through August being the most popular times to visit the island.   If visiting the Island from May through the end of July, you will be surrounded by the Puffin population that uses Skellig Michael as a summer nesting ground.  We visited Skellig Michael on August 5th, but all the Puffins had already left for the season.

There are TWO types of tours offered to The Skelligs:  The Skellig Michael Landing Tour and The Skelligs Islands Eco Boat Tours.  ONLY THE "LANDING TOUR" LETS YOU EXPLORE SKELLIG MICHAEL!  The Landing Tour runs mid-May to late September only.  The eco-tour, which goes around both Skellig Michael and Little Skellig seems to be better suited for tourists who have mobility challenges, small children or who didn't book a landing tour in advance.





Because Skellig Michael was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997, the OPW (Office of Public Works/Heritage Ireland) which oversees Skellig Michael limits the number of daily visitors to the island.  That number changes every year with more tour operators being granted a licence to run tours to the Skelligs, but as of 2018, there is a maximum of 180 people per day that can explore the island.


We booked our trip to Skellig Michael with the ship The Mary Frances with  Skellig Michael Voyage by emailing Captain Nealie Lynne.  We ended up phoning him directly, his number is on the website. 

HOW DO I BOOK A TOUR?

Trail Sign On Skellig Michael

There is a comprehensive website on Skellig Michael that gives you up to date information on all the tours available to The Skelligs:  www.skelligmichael.com.  In 2018, the number of tour operators with licences to land at Skellig Michael increased from 12 to 15, but as of November 2018, there is no news on if there have been more operators added to the list for 2019.   The booking season for 2019 will open IN MARCH 2019 and pre-booking far in advance is mandatory.  

Each tour boat can bring 12 passengers per day to Skellig Michael, BUT YOU CAN ONLY  BOOK A MAXIMUM OF 4 TICKETS PER TOUR OPERATOR.  So if you are a group of 5 or more, you will be travelling on separate boats.  Many tour operators have a minimum age of 12 years old because of the dangers of climbing the steps on Skellig Michael.

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Tickets to Skellig Michael in 2018 were between €85 -€100  per person depending on the tour operator.  Our captain took cash only on the morning of departure, but some tour operators have websites with a booking system where you can book online with a credit card.  ALL TOURS NEED BETWEEN 3 DAYS AND 24 HOURS NOTICE FOR CANCELLATION.  It depends on your individual operator so make sure you know the policy.   Many visitors are on a waitlist for a Landing Tour, if you give the captain 24 hours notice they can usually fill your spot.  If you are a no show, you will be charged.   

The weather has the biggest impact on if your Skellig Michael Landing Tour will become a reality for you.  The weather in the 2018 season saw only 65% of all bookings making it to Skellig Michael because of rough seas.  IF your Landing Tour gets cancelled, you will be issued a refund, but you will not be rebooked to another time.  For this reason, many people book several dates for their landing tours; in case one day is cancelled due to dangerous seas, they have another day reserved as a backup.  Don't forget to cancel any additional dates at least 24 hours in advance! 

WHAT TO EXPECT ON DEPARTURE:

On Route To Skellig Michael

Most Landing Tour operators leave from Portmagee.  Boat trips to Skellig Michael usually depart between 9:00 and 10:00 and take about one hour to sail to the island, leave you there to explore from 11:00 to 1:30 and return you back to Portmagee by 2:30.  

IF YOU DO NOT HAVE A RESERVATION FOR A SKELLIG MICHAEL LANDING TOUR SHOW UP AT THE PORTMAGEE MARINA BETWEEN 8 and 9 AM TO  ASK AROUND FOR CANCELLATIONS. 

Landing At Blind Man's Cove

Arrive at your departure point (ours was Portmagee) one to one and a half hours early.  If you depart from Portmagee, be prepared for a chaotic scene at the marina in the morning.  Ask around for either your Captain OR the name of your boat, and you will be told to wait at a designated place.  We paid our captain in cash, right before we left.   There are some tour operators that require a credit card number to reserve a Landing Tour spot.  This is only to hold your reservation, and the captain wants to be paid in cash on the morning of the tour.  Many people arrived at the dock, only to find out that the captain wants cash at departure and THERE IS NO ATM IN PORTMAGEE!!! For this reason, I recommend bringing money along just in case.

WHAT TO EXPECT ON SKELLIG MICHAEL?

Once settled on your boat, your captain will hand out life vests and rain ponchos.  The seas can get rough once out past the protected waters of the Portmagee channel, and many people can suffer from seasickness. If you get any kind of motion sickness, take non-drowsy anti-nausea pills.  You have to be alert and on balance to climb the stairs to the monastery once arriving on Skellig Michael.



There are NO FACILITIES on Skellig Michael.  No toilets, no benches no picnic tables.  Wear really sturdy shoes with non-slip soles as the stone steps become very slippery, especially after a rainfall.   I recommend wearing a backpack to carry items such as your lunch, a water bottle, sunscreen and a camera so you can leave your hands free to help you climb.  Also, there is one dedicated eating area at the monastery and eating anywhere else on the island is prohibited. 





The climb up the stone staircase is physically demanding.  Anyone with mobility issues, health issues, vertigo or fear of heights; I would recommend you skip this tour and perhaps take the Eco Tour instead of the landing tour.  I would also keep a close eye on all children who may wander a little too close to the edge!

Beehive Huts On Skellig Michael

The best part of your tour is waiting at the top of Skellig Michael.  I would recommend going straight up to the monastery first to hear the Skellig Michael guide give their 20-minute talk on the history of the island, and the monks who built and lived in this monastery.  Perhaps take all your photos on the way back down to the boat, so you don't miss any of the information the guide provides.  It's fun to poke around the ruins and sit inside the dark beehive-shaped huts imagining life as a monk in the Middle Ages.

If you want to learn a bit about the history of the monastery built on the island and see some photos check out my Skellig Michael blog post.

Whether you are a history buff or a Star Wars fan, exotic Skellig Michael will surely leave you feeling like you have visited a galaxy far, far away!

Go mbeidh an Fórsa leat!  May the Force be with you!

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