Dingle Peninsula VS Ring of Kerry

Are you struggling to decide between driving Ireland's uber-famous Ring of Kerry and the lesser known Dingle Peninsula?  Then this is the blog post for YOU!  I have some pros and cons for each drive, to help you choose what will work better for your perfect Ireland road trip itinerary.

Sunset Views of the Dingle Peninsula 

I was fortunate enough to spend a week renting a thatch-roofed cottage on the actual ring of Kerry between Cahairsiveen and Killorglin, allowing me to drive around both the Ring of Kerry on the Iveragh Peninsula and the Slea Head Loop on the Dingle Peninsula.  Many folks have asked me which scenic drive I would recommend to them because they have limited time on the West Coast.  If you are getting around by public transport, then your choices are minimal, especially if you are travelling in the shoulder or off-season.   Tour buses leave from Killarney to drive around the Ring of Kerry making this a much busier road to drive than the Dingle's Slea Head Drive.  So if you want to avoid crowds, head to Dingle. If driving in Ireland makes you nervous, and you don't want to rent a car then the Ring of Kerry would be your choice, because there are very few tours offered for the Dingle Peninsula.  This article is geared towards travels who have access to a vehicle.



Views

Both the Ring of Kerry and the Slea Head drive offer stunning ocean views.  The Slea Head road is closer to the sea, whereas The Ring of Kerry has some beautiful cliff-top vistas overlooking the Atlantic Ocean.  You can also take a side road off of the Ring of Kerry and drive the 32 kilometres Skellig Ring Road to see the beautiful Cliffs of Kerry and Skellig Islands off in the distance.  
My vote for better views goes to the Dingle Peninsula because you are driving next to the ocean more than on the Ring of Kerry.

The Cliffs Of Kerry

Slea Head

Historical Points of Interest

There are many archaeological points of interest on both scenic drives, yet each loop holds different and unique sites. 

Gallarus Oratory, Dingle Peninsula

Slea Head has beehive huts that were used by early inhabitants and later by Christian Monks.  Gallarus Oratory is a very early Christian church that was made by hand corbeled stone in a stunning setting.  Kilmalkedar Church with its Celtic cross graveyard and ancient Ogham stone is picturesque and evocative. DUNBEG RINGFORT IS CLOSED.   If you want to see a stone ringfort, you will have to see it on the Ring of Kerry. 

Staigue Ringfort, Ring of Kerry

Ring of Kerry has three bronze age stone ring forts; two at Cahirsiveen and a huge one at Staigue Ring Fort. The cute town of Kenmare has a  prehistoric pagan stone circle in the middle of the city, and Killarney National Park on the Ring of Kerry has a ruined castle and a few deserted abbeys to explore.

My vote is tied between these two drives; each has completely different types of historical monuments.

Attractions

Jaunting Car At Muckross House

With Killarney National Park being situated on the Ring of Kerry, the town of Killarney is much better set up for tourist activities than Dingle.  Killarney Park has Muckross House and Traditional Farms which is a grand Victorian House, and it's working open-air museum farm, Ross Castle and Muckross Abbey.  You can hike many of the gorgeous trails in Killarney park, rent a bike and explore the park, rent a boat, take a boat tour or hire a jaunting car through the Gap of Dunloe. 

Mysterious Beehive Huts On Skellig Michael

Another famous tourist attraction that is along the Ring of Kerry is the Skellig Islands.  Skellig Michael is a remote island 12 miles off the Kerry coast that is one of two of Ireland's  UNESCO world heritage sites.  The islands have become very popular in the last few years because of the filming of the Star Wars movies, and you must READ THIS BEFORE GOING TO SKELLIG MICHAEL!

Honourable mention for attractions on the Ring of Kerry is Derrynane (rhymes with Mary Ann) House, which was the home of Daniel O'Connell who gained equality for Catholics in Ireland back in the 1800s.

The town of Dingle has an aquarium called Oceanworld that is very popular with children. See www.dingle-oceanworld.ie for more information.  Another favourite activity in Dingle is a boat cruise around the harbour to spot Fungie the dolphin, Dingle's wild "mascot."  Or * NEW FOR 2019* you can take a cruise from Dingle to the Skellig Islands (this is not a landing tour, just a boat trip.  Check out Dingle Bay Charters for their cruise schedule.  If you want a taste of "real Ireland" visit the Blasket Islands just off the coast of Dunquin. Dingle Bay Charters in Dingle harbour has a ferry service daily to the remote Gaelic speaking Islands.  If you don't want to make the trip all the way out to Great Blasket Island, you can stop in at the Blasket Islands Visitor Center in Dunquin.  

My vote: Offering so many more attractions and activities, I would have to say the winner for the best attractions is Ring of Kerry.

Beaches

Both the Ring of Kerry and the Dingle Peninsula have gorgeous sandy beaches, some are popular swimming areas full of frolicking children, and some are a bit more isolated and remote feeling.  For two of the most popular swimming beaches here my picks:

Ballinskellig Beach photo by Patrick Cotter

Ballinskellig Beach (also known as Ladies Beach) along the Skellig Ring Road has a 1-kilometre long sandy strand, lifeguards on duty in July and August, and the ruins of a 16th-century castle to explore.  Most of the beaches along the ring of Kerry are located around the village of Sneem or around Ballinskellig on the Skellig Ring Road.  This is a popular beach with locals and holiday cottage renters in the summer, so finding parking can be a bit difficult.

Inch Strand Near Dingle

Inch Beach or Ínse (in Irish meaning Sea Meadow) is a sandy spit that juts out four miles into Dingle Bay making it the biggest beach in County Kerry.  This beach is perfect for swimming, beachcombing, horseback riding and surfing.  You can also drive up along the sand at Inch Beach!  There are several surf schools located on Inch Beach that offer lessons from May through September and surfing is great year round.

This was a tough decision!  My vote for the best beach would have to be Inch Strand, on the Dingle Peninsula.  



Towns

Downtown Kenmare

While Killarney is a large town on the ring of Kerry, for me it lacks charm and authenticity.  It seems like Killarney is all just strip malls and chain hotels with a lot of forgettable pubs and restaurants.  While there are many other charming towns on the Iveragh Peninsula like Killorglin, Waterville, Sneem and Kenmare which is my favourite on the Ring of Kerry.  Kenmare is an ancient market town that is very easy to walk with lots of shops, restaurants and pubs.  There is also a stone "Druid's Circle" in the city that dates back over 3,000 years!

Dingle's Colourful Main Street

The Dingle Peninsula's namesake town of Dingle, however, is one of the most charming places on the West Coast of Ireland.  Nestled on the water's edge, Dingle is a fishing port before a tourist town.  Colourfully painted little shops and restaurants line Dingle's streets and keep tourists happy.  Dingle's real charm comes out at night when locals and tourists alike head into the pubs for a pint and a session.  A "session" you may know is an evening of Irish Traditional Music, and in the evening out of almost every pub spills the sound of drums, fiddles and lots of laughter.  Dingle is rather well known in Ireland for its music scene, and it is worth spending an overnight, other than Dingle there are no other towns that I would say you must stop to visit.

The vote here would be for Dingle on the Dingle Peninsula for quality over quantity. Dingle is a super little town!

There you have it, folks!  If you have limited time on Ireland's West Coast, I would head over to Killarney National Park, then overnight in Dingle and drive the Slea Head Loop trail.  If you do have the luxury of time to do both drives I would highly recommend it, as each peninsula is unique with a unique vibe on each.

Have you been to County Kerry?  What was your favourite drive?

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Family Day Dash Through The Snow In Ontario

My first Family Day Holiday in Ontario was special.  The romance of a horse-drawn sleigh ride seemed the perfect activity for a sunny winter day. We didn't let the frigid Mid-February temperatures stop us from getting outdoors for some family fun!

Cuddle Time 

South-Western Ontario seems to have a romantic "step back through time" feel, and a horse-drawn sleigh ride seemed perfect for this frigid and snowy Family Day! Our group met at Riverbend Acres; a farm situated South of Kitchener (between Washington and Bright) not too far from our farmhouse in Drumbo. Immediately the beautiful Belgian Draft Horses that reside at Riverbend Acres were curious to meet us and came around the corral to say hello to everyone.  These horses are magnificent; big and blonde with loving brown eyes. They enjoyed a little cuddle!

Our Sweet Ride

Libby, the owner of Riverbend Acres, had the sleigh and the horses all ready for us when we arrived. Blankets lined the bench seats that circled the inside of the wagon, plus we brought along some extra blankets for our laps-because it was darn cold out, even though the sun was shining.  Good thing we brought along mitt & toe warmer inserts that day too; it was down to -16 degrees Celsius that afternoon!  

Keeping Toasty Warm

Libby had a team of two Belgian sisters that would be pulling our family that day; 7 adults and 4 kids, plus Libby at the reins. There is a maximum passenger capacity of 12 people for each wagon ride.  Our group was no problem for these two horses who pulled us as if we were a bunch of toddlers in a Radio Flyer wagon! 

Ride Through The Maple Grove

Our sleigh ride lasted for about an hour; touring Riverbend's 100-acre farm.  We went down along the banks of the Nith river in the sunshine and of course, singing at least one chorus of Jingle Bells! Then the horses really got going to a trot, and I was amazed at how fast they could go... yet so smooth.  It felt like we were floating above the snow. Libby guided the horses through a thick stand of Maple trees, and the kids looked for bird nests, woodpecker holes, and even a few squirrel habitats were sighted. It reminded me that soon, this forest of Maples will be full of buckets when the weather starts warming up, and the sap starts to run in March.  Mmmmm...syrupy goodness!

Snow Angel Time

Libby stopped the horses in a field behind Riverbend Acres so that we could jump out of the wagon and make angels in the snow to add to her guests' collection.  The wind must have blown the snow into a big drift here because it was so soft and deep.  One thing I miss about the West Coast is the heavy wet snow; now that is snow you can make snowballs with!  We couldn't really have a snowball fight. It turned out to be more of a snow-spray effect, like how you would splash water at someone. Apparently, I need to hone this skill because if the wind is not in your favour, the snow flies right back in your face. 😩

Winter Time Fun!

The horses soon made their way back to barns, and we were ready to gather around a roaring fire for some delicious hot apple cider that Granny brought from Wellesley. But first, we had to check out the sheep and goats in the barn.  The kids had fun feeding the lambs that had just been born at the beginning of February.  I slipped outside to give the horses a few extra special treats; some big fat juicy carrots!  With Libby's permission of course...

The "Olde Piggery" At Riverbend Acres

We reserved the "Olde Piggery", a beautiful rustic stone outbuilding at Riverbend for an hour after our sleigh ride so we could warm up by the wood stove and have a light meal together.  We had plugged in our crock pots to warm while we were out on our sleigh rides.  Hot BBQ pulled pork on french bread buns was on the menu, washed down with some famous Wellesley apple cider definitely hit the spot! The adults warmed up by the fire for a while, and the kids played ping pong and darts.  A bit of Apple Schnapps sitting by the wood stove was a perfect way to end to the Family Day afternoon. 

   

To book a wagon or sleigh ride with Libby at Riverbend Acres call 1-519-504-8340 or go to riverbendacres.com   Connect with Riverbend Acres on Facebook or Instagram to see where they will appear next in the community!


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Why Dingle Is My Favourite Irish Town

The smell of turf fires lingered in the air on a chilly August evening, and the sounds of laughter and traditional Irish music spilled out of the pub doors as we walked past.  In the warm town of Dingle on the West Coast of Ireland, you feel more like a temporary local than a tourist.

Now, I might be upsetting a few Irish folks that are proud of their own home town, but for our family, Dingle was the perfect Irish town.  Brightly coloured tidy buildings lined the waterfront of this fishing village that was easily walkable.  Interesting artists' shops, restaurants, and pubs abound here in Dingle making it a joy to discover.  Many people pass through Dingle on the Slea Head Drive around the Dingle Peninsula but don't stop in and spend enough time in the town itself.  There seems to be something to do for everyone in this tiny West Coast town of just under 2,000 people.  Dingle is a Gaeltacht town, meaning that many folks speak Irish to each other and in their homes.  I loved overhearing a conversation or two in Irish; it made Dingle feel all the more exotic!  Here are 7 other reasons why Dingle is my favourite Irish town...


1. AQUARIUM & INCH STRAND

Inch Beach

A favourite thing to do with children in Dingle is to visit Oceanworld Aquarium right on Dingle's waterfront.  TIP: If you purchase tickets online you save a few Euros on the entrance fee.  
My teen Liam didn't want to go check out the aquarium (to my disappointment), so instead, we headed just a few kilometres out of town to Inch Strand.  Inch Beach or strand is a gorgeous sandy beach that sticks out four miles into Dingle Bay.  The clean waters and safe swimming of Inch Strand made it a kid-friendly place to stop.  Kingdom Waves is a surfing school on Inch Strand popular with teens and kids of all ages, and there is a convenient beach bistro to stop in and get a nice hot drink or lunch.

2. MURPHYS ICE CREAM

The Best Ice Cream In Ireland

Right along the main drag of Dingle, stop in for a treat at Murphy's Ice Cream, the most delicious ice cream in Ireland.  I am not exaggerating when I say this.  Our jaunting car driver in Killarney National Park told us that if there is ONE THING we must do in Dingle, it was to have ice cream at Murphy's.  Why is this ice cream so special?  Murphys not only uses fresh local ingredients like free-range eggs, local honey, and Dingle GIN, but Murphy also makes their own sea salt from the Dingle coast and their big SECRET: cream from the rare indigenous Kerry cow.  The high-fat cream from these small black cows you see grazing in the fields around the Dingle Peninsula is what makes this ice cream worth the €6 price tag.  You must try the Sea Salt and Caramel Honeycomb two-scoop combo, it was OUT OF THIS WORLD!  If you can't make it out to Dingle -no worries!  Murphys now has shops in Dublin, Galway, Kilkenny,  and Killarney.


3. BOAT TOUR





What would Dingle be without its loveable maritime friend Fungie the dolphin?  He's been frolicking with boats in Dingle Bay for over 30 years.  Two companies offer Fungie The Dolphin Tours around Dingle Harbour.   The one-hour harbour cruise costs €10 and is a massive hit with kids.   Dingle Bay Charters also provide ferry service to Great Blasket Island off the coast of Slea Head, a Blasket Islands Eco-Tour, a Deep Sea Fishing Excursions and new for the 2019 season: a Skellig Micheal Tour (this is not a landing tour, just an eco-tour around the Skellig Islands). 





4. SHOPPING

St Mary's Church

Dingle Charm

If a Harbour cruise is not your thing, then a pedestrian cruise around the village is perfect.  Dingle is easy to wander on foot and is set up on a Medieval Street Plan, with Main Street running up and over the top of town.  Wander into some of the outstanding craft shops that feature woollen knitwear and weaving, pottery, goldsmiths and Dingle Crystal.  There were also a few great music shops like Siopa Ceoil that sell Traditional Irish Folk music CD's, Irish instruments, song and music books and instructional DVD's.  Also, in the summer the shop held evening music concerts known as "sessions" several times a week.  Siopa Ceoil is THE place to find out what is going on musically in Dingle, located just off Strand Street in a lane marked "The Colony."



5. FISH & CHIPS

Table At Harringtons!

Smoked Haddock & Chips!

All that exploring can work up one's appetite!  Our family has a rule: for one day on each vacation our son gets to choose what we do and where we eat, and in Dingle, it was fish and chips!  Our teen chose Harington's Family Restaurant on Strand Street right across from the Tourist Office.  This place felt like a classic teen joint, and there were tons of locals eating dinner there (not all teens by the way!)   Menus are glued onto each table, and the decor is random and eclectic.  The fish and chips were cooked to heavenly perfection, the burgers were homemade,  milkshakes used real ice cream, and the fries were crisp on the outside and nice and soft in the middle. I recommend the lightly smoked haddock and chips -OUT OF THIS WORLD!

  

6. TRADITIONAL IRISH MUSIC

Dingle is known for its traditional Irish music scene (called Trad music), and the best place to see a Trad Music session is in the pubs.  The music usually starts around 9:30 and pubs close at 11:30.  If you are travelling Ireland with your children, it may be a bit more challenging to hear Trad music because children under 14 must leave the pubs by 9:00.  Children over 14 and under 18 however, may remain in the pub after 9:00 as long as they are accompanied by their parents (we had no problem bringing our 16-year old into the pubs).  If you have younger children, fear not, you can still hear the same musicians play at St. James Church just off Main Street at the top of town.  You can buy tickets at the Dingle Music Shop Siopa Ceoil.



7. CONNOR PASS


For a Grande Finale of Dingle, I recommend you take a drive up to the infamous Connor Pass.  Connor Pass or An Chonair in Irish Gaelic is a narrow twisting (mostly one lane) road that is the highest mountain pass in all of Ireland.  The Connor Pass road runs from Dingle to Kilmore Cross and then on to Tralee on the North side of the Dingle Peninsula, offering scenic views in either direction you are travelling.  To get to the Connor Pass head to the R560 which starts as "The Mall" from the round-about in Dingle centre.  The road then turns into Spa Road once it crosses John Street at the top of town; follow this road all the way to The Connor Pass summit.
At the summit of the Connor Pass, there is a large car park where you can stop and take in the views of both sides of the Dingle Peninsula.  This is a fabulous spot to watch the sun go down over Dingle Town and the Dingle Peninsula.

Have you visited Dingle?  What was your favourite activity?  Please share in the comments below, I would love some suggestions for the next time I visit this colourful Irish town...

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Storytime-Life Lessons from an Arizona Vortex

Powerful energy centres called Vortexes are located in the desert of Arizona, which are intersections of naturally occurring electromagnetic Earth energy called ley lines.  The transformative healing of the Vortexes must be experienced to be believed...

2019 is going to be a momentous year for me.  That is not only what the astrologer that I follow said, but because I know once you hit bottom; the only direction is up.  You see, this past New Years' I not only found myself separated from my husband of nearly twenty years but also the sole caregiver to my teenage son.  I rang in 2019 in a state of emotional and spiritual distress, trying to figure out how I was going to try to put my life back together again.  

Luckily I had a work trip to Scottsdale, Arizona booked for a belly dance retreat.  It was a three day intensive with six hours a day of instruction, lunch hour lectures and evening performances.  I honestly didn't know if I had it in me to keep up to the rigorous pace of such a physically demanding schedule, but I really needed a mental break from my life and a way to feed my soul.  Besides, the trip was all paid for already and non-refundable!


I was travelling with members of my dance troupe from Ontario, and we decided to arrive in Scottsdale a day early and rent a van to visit Sedona for some exploring.  Upon researching hikes around Sedona, I discovered that there are said to be "Vortices" or centres of energy that are conducive to healing.  This turned out to be in perfect alignment with what I needed.  So what's the deal with Vortexes?

Start of the Trail To Cathedral Rock

The 22-mile radius around Sedona is said to be a great big Vortex, and approaching the town you could feel a shift of emotions in your body. Was it excitement, anticipation....anxiety?   For those who have experienced Vortex phenomena, they explained it to me like this:  Vortices amplify your emotions and energy.  If you are feeling happy, your Spiritual experience will be blissful and positive, and if you are depressed or agitated, you could have a negative experience.  It is believed that each Vortex point has either Inflow energy (Yin energy that is feminine) or Upflow energy (Yang energy that is masculine).  It is essential therefore to treat your hike to a Vortex like a pilgrimage and prepare yourself emotionally. 

First Plateau Below Cathedral Rock

Cathedral Rock is an iconic symbol of Sedona and one of the more popular places to hike to experience an Inflow Vortex, and Bell Rock is the most trekked of the Upflow Vortexes.  Both of these trails are listed as "easy" hikes, but that is a bit misleading because although short; the trails are vertically challenging.  To reach the trailhead for Cathedral Rock take the turnoff to Back O' Beyond Road at the roundabout on Highway 179 (Red Rocks Scenic Byway.)  You will come across a parking lot and an overflow parking area, both on the left side of the road.  There is a meter at the trailhead where you need to purchase a $5.00 "pay-and-display" ticket for all day parking.  Cash and credit cards were both accepted in the machine.  

Approaching The Saddle Of Cathedral Rock

The Cathedral Rock trail is a series of mesa or plateaus connected by steep verticle inclines.  The first part of the trail is easy, and you can walk through the red earth in a pair of Birkenstocks like one of my fellow dance partners did.  Quite quickly you arrive at the first plateau with a fantastic view of Cathedral Rock above you and the Red Rock formations of the Sedona Valley surrounding you. This windy tabletop is considered to be an Upflow Vortex point, and I noticed something strange began to happen.  First, the trail leading on from here started to climb significantly, and one of our hiking companions had begun to get a cramp in her foot, so she decided to turn around and meet us back at the trailhead.  Soon the trail inclined again requiring hikers to use their hands to climb the rocks that became like a ladder.   Another one of my companions slipped and hit her hand so hard that she almost sprained her thumb; she was out for the hike.  My next friend, who was wearing a gorgeous pair of blue suede loafers reluctantly stayed behind the group, slowly making his way to the next mesa because his shoes did not offer enough traction on the dusty boulders.  PROPER HIKING SHOES IS A MUST  TO REACH THE SUMMIT OF THIS TRAIL!

Beautiful Red 

We were down to half of our original group now, and the path inclined again becoming almost verticle.  Watching people using rock scrambling techniques to continue upwards terrified one of my companions who was worried about trying to get back down the steep incline, and she decided it was best for her to stop at that point.  It was only my one last friend and now, I huffing and puffing up the dusty red trail trying to find the next rock-cairn trail marker when all of a sudden, my friend's breathing became laboured.   She was having difficulty with asthma-like symptoms and told me she would have to stay behind.  My dear friend looked up at me solemnly and said: "Monika I think you are meant to make the rest of this journey on your own."   I nearly burst into tears.  My first thought (and every other thought after that) was I CAN'T DO IT ALONE!  But some strange force deep within me propelled me forward, and I nodded and continued upwards. I had come so far already, I couldn't give up at this time.  All my self-doubts rose to the surface, and the journey to the top of Cathedral Rock became a giant metaphor in my mind for rebuilding my life.

With each footstep, my husbands' voice started echoing inside my head, telling me that I was not strong enough to make it to the top alone.  What if I got lost and nobody could find me?  What if I hurt myself and there was no one to help me back down?  What if my friends down below though I was too slow and left me to go into town (oh right, I had the car keys in my backpack-whoops!)  Why weren't there more people climbing up the path, so I easily could follow along behind them?  
Every now and again a few elated hikers came down the steep path and offered me encouragements as they passed:  "You are almost there; keep going!"  and "It's worth the climb, it's spectacular up there!"  Honestly, if it were not for those reassuring words from these strangers I would have turned around and fled to the safety of my friends below.  But I had made it this far already to turn back now seemed like a waste.  So I gathered up my strength,  and told myself that I was doing great and that I can do this difficult and challenging thing BY MYSELF at my own pace, just by putting one foot in front of the other; eventually, I would get to the top.  Kind of like life, right?
And I did.

Womb With A View

I saw the end of trail sign, and I could not believe my accomplishment!  My body was tingling with energy, and my eyes inhaled the most incredible vista of the Sedona canyonlands below me.    I found myself on the edge of a cliff in a natural amphitheatre of red rocks that felt like being in the Earth's womb; in fact, I have heard the summit of Cathedral Rock referred to as "a womb with a view."  I wish I had had someone with me to witness the moment, but at the same time,  the solo trek made my experience a Spiritual initiation for me.  Sitting on a rock near the ledge, I briefly closed my teary eyes and listened to the wind.  I wanted to burn the moment in my memory for future use when I began to doubt myself again.  


Just as I was hoisting my daypack back on to return down the trail, two women from Hawaii arrived breathlessly at the summit.  They offered to do a photo exchange with me since I was alone on the trail.  I am so happy they arrived when they did because now I have a touchstone to remember the incredible Vortex experience of Cathedral Rock where I learned I am never really alone.  Mother Earth has always had my back.   After the challenging slide back down the rocks, my dear friends were waiting for me at the bottom. They had not abandoned me, which just reinforced the knowledge that I was supported on my journey even though I had to walk the steps by my self.  I look forward to blogging SOLO adventures in 2019 and in the future, overcoming my travel anxieties, doubts and fears of a woman travelling alone for the first time in 20 years!  

I DID IT!!!!

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