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Sunday, April 19, 2020

Money Hacks To Save For Travel

Fill your money jar for global travel

Travel is expensive, and it takes time.  Many people say to me: "I wish we could travel, but we just don't have the money."  Or   "I wish I could travel, but I only get one week for vacation each year-it's not worth going overseas."  My answer to that is: "Then you don't really want to travel."   The conversation usually ends there.


Occasionally the conversation continues "But I really do want to travel, how do you manage it?" Here are a few of my hacks for fitting travel into your life.  This first post is about saving up money for a trip, and soon I will have a post on saving money while travelling.

Do not save what is left after spending but spend what is left after saving
Why save for a trip when you can pay by credit card and worry about it later?  Well, if you end up broke a few months after your trip you will blame the travel not yourself because that's what we do as humans.  I recommend saving up for at least your plane tickets, accommodations and some spending money before you depart.  My mother used to say: "If there is a will, then there is a way" and it's true. I was raised by German immigrants who escaped the iron curtain after WWII, so discipline is in my D.N.A, and mental discipline is what it takes to save for a trip.  So before I even start to budget for a trip I go into what my family and I call "austerity measures"  where we cut out all the things deemed unnecessary.


Child playing with a button on string
Hours Of Entertainment!

Tip #1  ENTERTAINMENT is the first item to be cut. You can wait for a few months for that new movie that just came out in theatres to appear on Netflix.  I actually haven't had cable TV for over 13 years now. Between Netflix and YouTube, there is more to watch in one lifetime than humanly possible.  I also use the public library for books (and e-books), magazines and movies.  The library also helps save money on costly guidebooks when you are doing research on your travel destinations.  Look, I'm not suggesting playing with a button on a string for entertainment, but there are so many ways we can cut back in this department.  There is always work to be done in our homes and sometimes my chores mix into my entertainment.  Like when I have a food canning session or ironing mountains of clothes; I set up the laptop and binge-watch the latest Netflix series. I can have fun while doing monotonous work.



Affordable, kid friendly pasta meal in Rome, Italy
Spaghetti Is Always Cheap & Fun!
Tip #2 FOOD.  Many people go out to eat as entertainment.  We don't go out to eat in restaurants unless it is someone's birthday.  I pack our family lunches from home (gasp!-I know, like the peasantry). I cook simple nutritious meals at home that don't involve a lot of expensive ingredients and we don't eat much meat.  If you are a gardener, grow your own veggies and preserve them by canning or freezing.  Eat with the seasons-I would roll over and die first before I buy a pint of strawberries in January for $10!  We make our own beer and wine, which saves on our entertaining.  Look, I would rather be having a meal on a piazza in Italy or a pub in Ireland than at the East Side Mario's at the strip mall-just keep reminding yourself of that.


Window shopping in Cortona, Tuscany
In France, This Is Called "Window Licking"
Tip #3  DO NOT GO TO THE MALL!  Don't do it; just don't.  The only time I go into a mall is when I have to do my Christmas shopping or when I need my shoes repaired (my cobbler is in the mall and yes, I pay to repair a pair of expensive shoes rather than toss them and buy a new pair).  Malls are designed to make you want to spend your vacation dollars by buying that latest "Made In China" gadget, or crappy "Made In Bangladesh" fast fashion item or even gulp down an overpriced coffee. If you knew the real price of some of these things you would choke on your $5 latte (that cost 75¢ to make).
OK, I know we do need clothes and some stuff like pots and pans.  I avoid department stores where you have to walk by what I call the "Glamour Gauntlet" (the cosmetic department, jewellery, fashion)  to get downstairs to the basement where the pots and pans are kept.  Seriously, it's like running the gauntlet of lux and the temptation is too strong for me!  Here's another alternative, go to Kijiji or Craigslist and I love going to the thrift store. I find designer brands that are practically brand new!  Cashmere sweaters, velvet dresses, designer jeans, leather boots, jewellery, purses-I could go on and on.  It doesn't hurt that I know how to sew to make a few repairs or alterations on the clothes, but really I don't bother buying things I need to alter anymore unless the item is really special.  For all other things like intimates, I just shop online to avoid the mall.  I have a note on my phone with all my family's measurements & shoe sizes so if there is an online sale somewhere I can pick up what we need.  It's good for the environment too; reduce, RE-USE, recycle, baby!

Earn extra money or just carry onTip #4  EARN MORE CASH!  This applies to everyone. I don't care if you have three letters behind your name; if you can't afford your travel dreams, then you need more cash in your travel fund.  Our family of three lives off of one income and my business income of sewing belly dance costuming pays for our travel.  In the past, I have also taken on part-time retail jobs, babysitting jobs, custodial jobs, cleaning jobs and now our farm income trickles into our travel fund as well.   I am not above hard work of any kind to get me out travelling in this world.  This quote by Jerry Rice sums it up so well for me: "Today I will do what others won't, so tomorrow I can do what others can't".   On a trip abroad I have often thought, WOW I am sitting on this lovely square having a glass of wine all because someone else was too lazy to scrub their toilet or wash their windows.  CHEERS!




Flow chart of where to put your money you earnedTip #5 EMERGENCIES! It happens once in a while, that we need to dump a bunch of cash down on not so fun stuff.  Car repairs, hot water tank, etc.  Well, I have several bank accounts with purposes for each.  One is called:  "Travel Fund", the other is "Working Account" and one is called "Boring S**t".  Boring S**t is the emergency fund where I would use the money to buy a sump pump because the basement flooded (true story).  I keep a set amount of money in there that makes me feel secure in case of a household emergency.  This is a different fund than say if one gets sick or injured and we have no income for 6 months, then that would be the "Holy F**k!" account.  Toronto Dominion Bank I apologize for my profane account names, but I'm sure you're ok with it, knowing how much money in service fees you make off me.

Now here's one thing that was life-altering for me: DYI  YouTube videos.  Washing machine repairs, sump pump instalments, how to build a chicken run-whatever.  You can save hundreds of dollars a year from going into the "Boring S**t" account and instead, put the money into your "Travel Fund" account.  I try to do things myself rather than hire someone to do the work for me.  I also don't own fancy things.  For example, our furniture is mostly Ikea, or used, or even used Ikea.  Until 18 months ago I drove a 20-year-old Volvo station wagon.  Yes, I put repairs into her, but we do not spend 30+ thousand every few years to get a new car.  Do you know how many trips you could go on for that kind of cash!?!  If you live in a city, take public transit, ride a bike or walk; you will save hundreds of dollars!

Beach scene in Cayo Santa Maria, Cuba
I Would Rather Be

I almost make a sport of saving:  I just saved $50 by colouring my own hair!    I just saved $40 by doing my own oil change on the car!  As long as that cash you save ends up in the Travel Fund; you're golden!
This last tip sums it up.  Ask yourself this: do you know how many ______ you can get for ______?  For example: Do you know how many espressos you can get in Florence for your Grande Chai Tea Latte at the mall?  Do you know many pints of Guinness you could buy in an Irish Pub for your two-four of Bud Light at the Liquor BarnEVERY DOLLAR COUNTS.  This thinking process is what helps to motivate me to stick with my goals.



See you on the piazza! 






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This post first appeared in 2017 as: How do we afford to travel? Part 1: Saving

Friday, February 28, 2020

Christmas in San Marino

Sunset over Mount Titanio, San Marino Italy


The most serene republic of San Marino is a romantic fairytale land...that really exists!  From San Marino's lamp-lit castle ramparts, you can watch the sunset over the distant Apennine mountains and then watch the moon rise over the Adriatic Sea.  


Sunset from the castle ramparts in the Republic of San Marino
Sunset Over The Apennines

San Marino is one of my favourite places in all of "non-Italy".  I say non-Italy because San Marino is a separate republic; a microstate within Italy (kind of like the Vatican) and one of the oldest republics in the world.  TIP: San Marino's main capital city is also called San Marino, which can be confusing if you are programming a GPS.  Named after its Patron Saint, St Marinus, who established a hermitage at the summit of Mount Titano in 301 C.E., San Marino and Mount Titano are UNESCO World Heritage Sites.  The last time I visited San Marino was in 2013, and I was so excited to return to the small capital and see it all lit up in the evening light.


Sunset was at 4:44 pm in San Marino.  With clear skies and a full moon, all the stars seemed to be aligning to be able to get some great pictures from the top of Mount Titano that evening. 

The drive up to the top of San Marino is a thrilling hairpin turn road that offers views of the valley below and the sea off in the distance.  Last time I was here I took a fun ride up the funicular to the top of San Marino, rather than pay for expensive all-day parking. This time I was only visiting for a few hours, and I wanted to zoom to the top of Mt. Titano to catch the sunset magic with my travel partner.   


GPS screen of San Marino's Via Piana which means "Flat Street"  in San Marino, Italy
Via Piana Means "Flat Street"😵  


TIP:  For parking at the top of San Marino, follow the main road ALL the way to the end (it turns into Via JF Kennedy) and there will be a huge pay parking lot just beyond a set of stone arches.  
This is the closest you can park to the iconic castles and the cliffside promenade that connects them.  Over Christmas holidays this parking lot is closed because it is the location of the Christmas Snow Village, but there was lots of street parking available.  This is the bliss of travelling in the off-season!



The three historical towers of San Marino perch impossibly on the very edge of Mount Titano's cliff face, with a stomach-clenching drop of 738 meters to the valley below...




San Marino's medieval Montale tower in San Marino, Italy
Montale




Racing to catch the setting sun, I took a shortcut from the street and literally ran uphill through a forest of oak, chestnut and laburnum trees to San Marino's third tower-Montale. I was lucky to catch the sun just as it slunk behind the smokey-blue coloured mountains.  Spectacular.  The floodlights suddenly came on, dramatically lighting up the three iconic fortresses of San Marino: Montale, Cesta and the most famous; Guatia.  From the tower of Montale, I strolled along the stone path through the forest, to the middle tower called Cesta.








Original fortress walls of San Marino dressed in Christmas lights in San Marino, Italy
The Original Fortress Walls






Cesta is the middle peak of San Marino and the highest point.  The tower holds San Marino's museum, displaying over 1500 weapons from the middle ages to modern times.  Cesta was built on top of a Roman Fort, so I consider this spot the end of my trip along the "Via Flaminia" which I followed from Rome, through Umbria and the Apennine mountains to the seaside city of Rimini.  From the tower of Cesta, you can see the great wall that is part of the original city wall that enclosed San Marino, protecting this free republic since the Middle Ages.  The wall had a different purpose now.  A million twinkling white lights strung across the top of the wall like a fairy path lead tourists along the promenade flanked by cafes and souvenir shops to the castle: Guaita.


The cliffside promenade between castle towers in San Marino, Italy
The Cliffside Promenade


Alone on the very cold and windy ramparts of Guaita, you can really sense the amount of determination this proud little republic needed to stay independent for hundreds of years.  The people of San Marino are called "Sammarinese" and they have a distinctly separate culture of food and wine, their own University, a Sammarinese language (which is a form of the Emilia-Romagnolo dialect) and its own traditional folk music.  For a peek at the traditional Sammarinese folk music check out the video at the very end of this post.

I could hear Christmas carols floating up to the ramparts from far down below, it was the Christmas village pumping out Bony M tunes for all the little skaters and tobogganers that were having a great time in the fresh mountain air.  This would be a good time to go check out the action and see if I could find some mulled wine to warm up.
San Marino's skating rink was the biggest I have seen so far on my Italian Christmas travels through Umbria.  There was also "snow" tubing on the red runway beside the skating rink.  I think every kid in town was there that night living out their winter fantasy, it made me kind of homesick for Canada.   Sadly there was no mulled wine here for my winter fantasy.   Onward.
The parking lot is turned into a skating rink for Christmas in San Marino
Parking Lot Turned Into The Skating Rink

Quiet Streets of San Marino dressed for Christmas holidays in San Marino, Italy
Quiet Streets Of San Marino



The Pattinaggio or Christmas Skating Rink in San Marino, Italy
Questing forth for the elusive mulled wine, I came across another Christmas market selling traditional Sammarinese sweets like Christmas cakes, candies, nuts as wells as cheeses, jams, cured meats and delicious..."Vin Brulé" which is Italian mulled wine!  Vin Brulé is hot red wine, sweetened a bit and spiced with cloves, allspice, cinnamon and orange peel.  Best €2 I spent all day!




Piazza Della Liberta in the Republic of San Marino
Piazza Della Liberta


Warmed up with a spiced wine buzz, there was another quest I was on that night.   When I was in San Marino in 2013 I came across a shop that sold intricate metal masks that looked like lace.  I thought about those masks on and off for four years and always regretted not purchasing one; I didn't even know the name of the store.  Life brought me back to San Marino and to the very same street of the mask shop, and the shop was OPEN!  La Vetrina del Titano is a shop that specializes in Venetian style masks and jewellery.  The kind owner Manuela helped me pick out two beautiful masks, one for myself the other for my dear Italian friend Giulia as a thank you gift.  The Universe gave me a second chance to grab these masks and I promised to never, EVER ignore the "call of the Universe" to buy something special when travelling!

Beautiful Christmas light art installation in Piazza Della Liberta, San Marino, Italy
Beautiful Christmas Light Art


Coming out of the shop, my travel partner caught two musicians that were wandering through the streets dressed as Sammarinese shepherds playing the accordion and a rare  Italian folk instrument called a '"zampogna".  The zampogna is a bagpipe type instrument that was brought to this area from Ancient Greece via southern Italy.  This instrument was common in folk music but fell out of favour in the 18th century and is now usually only associated with Christmas carols.  If you want to see a rare zampogna in action, check out the video at the bottom of the blog entry.

January Winter Full Moon over the Adriatic Sea from the peak of San Marino
Full Moon Over The Adriatic

Time was moving at an alarmingly rapid pace and it was almost time to meet Giulia after work.  I wanted to see if we could catch the full moon rising, so I hunted for an open space like a piazza or a terrace to get a clear vantage point.  The City Hall in Piazza della Libertà is a  picturesque little square on a terrace overlooking the mountains in the distance.  The problem was the mountains faced west where I had captured the sunset earlier, so that meant I had to go to the other side of San Marino that faced East.  Luckily, because I was on a mountain peak, the other side of San Marino was only a 5-minute walk beyond the Piazza della Libertà towards the funicular station.
Rounding the corner to the funicular station, I stopped dead in my tracks.  The scene I looked out at from the mountaintop terrace was as delicious and intoxicating as the Vin Brulè! The full moon was shining down upon the Adriatic; her silver reflection on the sea so bright, that it looked like the water was being lit from beneath. It didn't even register to my eyes as being "real" at first; like I was looking at a painting.  Staring out at the moonlit scene was one of the most romantic moments of my trip.

That vista was also the most satisfying end to my night in "the most serene republic" of San Marino.


Sammarinese Traditional Music Featuring the "zampogna":





Original post appeared January 2018

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Saturday, February 8, 2020

The Real-Deal On Traveling To Venice

Venetian gondolas parallel parked in a canal Venice, Italy


Is Venice actually as "magical"  as the hundreds of articles written about the city claim?  Would Venice be a decaying open-air museum, or would She be a romantic's escape to another world?  Let's explore Venice together for the first time...   


We were driving across the floating causeway into Venice with our little rental car hauling a huge suitcase full of anticipation along with a small carry-on bag of anxiety. It was the finale of our Italian Christmas holidays and my first trip ever to the City of Bridges. 

I had been told by family, friends, books and media that  Venice is "a world apart" that it is "the most unreal city on earth" and "you will fall in love with Venice."  In fact, Venice has been voted the most beautiful city in the world in 2016, 2017 and 2018 by TripAdvisor, Conde Nast, Rough Guides, Telegraph UK, and so many other travel publications.  Yet, I have been warned by many trusted family, friends (and cynical) world travellers that Venice is a "world-class tourist trap!" They told me Venice is "overcrowded, overpriced and dirty," and they were only trying to "not disappoint me."  This is what I feared the most, my dreams getting dashed by the hyper-tourism that threatens to turn Venice into a giant floating theme park.

So here's the real deal on Venice...

St. Marks Square from the Venice Lagoon, Venice, Italy
St. Marks From The Lagoon




How can one describe Venice without sounding like a million travel cliches?



Many people make the mistake of "DO-ing" Venice.  This kind of travel is the "tick-mark-next-to-the-bucket-list-item" travel to say you were there.  You can't DO Venice.  As a traveller, that just seems dirty.  The city of Venice plays Her cards close to her chest, and it takes time for you to get to know this noble city.   I would say I had an induction into Venice, where I slowly sank through all the layers of complexity that lies behind Her mask.



Trying to Get To The Little Red Pin


Venice is an island made up of a series of 118 small islands linked by 400 bridges.  There are no streets in Venice. Instead, Venetians use canals to navigate the city.  The city is connected to the mainland by a long causeway called the Ponte della Libertà built-in 1933 by Mussolini.  The causeway deadends once across the water, and there are two parking garages located there: Tronchetto and Piazzale Roma, where all the rental car agencies are located. 
TIP #1:  THERE IS AN EXTRA FEE FOR DROPPING OFF A RENTAL CAR IN VENICE.  Our company charged us $50 Canadian to drop off the car in Venice rather than in Mestre on the mainland.  This was fine for us since 1) it saved us at least an hour 2) we would be paying for 3 train or bus tickets into Venice from Mestre, so it worked out to be about the same cost in the end.




Crossing one of the brick bridges in Venice, Italy
Leaving Breadcrumbs To Find Our Way Home
"Part of the magic of Venice is getting lost."

Sure.  When you are not trying to find something or meet someone.  Like trying to get to our Airbnb in half an hour to reach our host.  No problem, we thought.  If we were looking at a map of Venice, we were at the mouth of the fish (Piazzale Roma), and we needed to go to the dorsal fin of the fish (Fondamenta Nuove).  Venice is only 3 square miles and only takes about 45 minutes to get from one end of the city to the other, so this should be no problem.  WRONG.  Venice is a literal maze of dead ends, secret courtyards, and odd little corners.   The buildings are sometimes so close together that two people cannot pass each other.  TIP #2: YOUR PHONE GPS WILL NOT HELP YOU!  The accuracy of your GPS sucks most of the time and the twists and turns just seem to confuse most apps.   My advice is to walk in the general direction you think you need to go in and check in with your GPS at every significant open space like a piazza.  You can ask a local for guidance, but they will usually tell you to "keep going straight." Just warning you now, so you don't throw your mobile into the canal.  Even Venetians get lost outside their own neighbourhoods!




The patched up brick palazzos of Venice Italy with a modern boat, Venice Italy
In A State Of Elegant Decay
Walking single file, we rolled our suitcases up, across and down the big Calatrava bridge that spans the Grand Canal. Past the super busy Santa Lucia train station and the main Vaporetto stop Ferrovia.  This area along the Grande Canal is glitzy and bustling with vendors in little kiosks selling cheap tourist trinkets.  Dozens of other tourists were dragging their suitcases along behind them as we were, trying to get them upstairs and over bridges and down the other side with their overpacked luggage.  TIP #3: PACK LIGHT GOING TO VENICE.  You will thank me after schlepping your bags over the 20th bridge you encounter.  I'm not kidding! Remember, there are 400 bridges in Venice, and they ALL have steps.
View of the Venice lagoon and the cemetary island, Venice Italy
The View From Our Airbnb Flat
We eventually found our way to our Airbnb flat, which was right outside the boat stop that heads out to other Islands in the lagoon such as Murano, Burano and the airport.  Our Airbnb flat was a great location and cheap, considering we had our own kitchen to cook our meals in.  TIP #4: TRY TO FIND LODGINGS IN A RESIDENTIAL NEIGHBOURHOOD RATHER THAN THE TOURIST HOTSPOTS. Not only will you save money, but you will see how the actual Venetians live.  We stayed in the Cannaregio neighbourhood, but Castello and Dorsoduro are charming neighbourhoods too.






Neighbourhood fruit and vegetable market in Venice, Italy
Fresh Fruit & Veg Market in Venice
"Venice is expensive, and the food is not very good."
Yes, Venice is more expensive than in other Italian cities.  Mainly because everything has to be brought into Venice by small boat and transferred by hand.  That being said, we paid about the same prices for meals in Venice as we did on the Amalfi Coast a few months earlier.  You are paying tourist prices in Venice, and most often, you are paying extra for a table with a view.  With so many foreign tourists "DO-ing" Venice in one day, restaurants don't have to have excellent quality because as a tourist, you will never be back. Restaurants in Venice know this, and they also know they can charge whatever they want.  In fact, many tourists that are in organized tours are only in Venice for 6 hours, and the Venetians call this type of tourism "bite and run."  There are MANY decently priced restaurants where the locals eat.  You just have to ask around or do a little research on the internet.

Local Venetian red table wine bought at the CoOp market, Venice, Italy

Settling into our little apartment overlooking the Venetian lagoon, we decided to run out and get some groceries.  We actually brought along some food from Riccione in a backpack so that we would have dinner supplies when we arrived in Venice. We also found this market just a few 100 meters from our flat.  There was also a Co-Op Super Market across the way that sold everything from wine to eggs.  The wine selection at the Co-Op is full of cheap yet decent local Veneto Wine-Oh, my happy liver!

 With our suitcases unpacked and our bellies now full, we stepped
out into the night to meet the real Venice.

The quiet back canals of Venice at night, Venice, Italy
The Quiet Back Canals of Venice

"Venetians savour the leisurely pace of life."


True. Nighttime in Venice belongs to the Venetians; their work is done, most of the tourists are gone back to the mainland, and the sidewalks become empty again.  If I could use one word to describe Venice, it would be DRAMAIt felt like you were walking through one big opera set and that with the rhythmic clicking of your heels on the stone beneath your feet, an orchestra would begin and costumed singers would appear on the balconies hanging over the canals.  Even the locals are dramatic. Locals dress with dramatic flair and carry themselves as if they were walking down a fashion runway.  Especially the little old ladies with their bright red hair, high heels and winter coat of leopard print faux fur.  Even listening to the Venetian dialect that floated around us sounded so rich and complex. The Venitian dialect is quite unintelligible to other Italians like our friend Giulia who only lived 2 hours south.

We were sinking into a world of romance and make-believe with every bridge we crossed.


Lit Christmas tree in Piazza San Marco Venice Italy
Christmas Tree in St. Marks Square
"Venice at Christmas is like a beautiful woman in a glamourous ballgown-you just can't stop staring at her"
After winding our way through alleys and crossing bridges that led to one magnificent vignette or another, we followed the yellow signs pointing "per San Marco---->" until we came to a gondola stop that seemed to be taking the last of the tourists out into the night.  We slipped under an arcaded passageway that opened up to one of Europe's most iconic squares, Piazza San Marco.  Lit up in all its glory, the centrepiece of the square is the Basilica of Saint Mark.  The Byzantine-style Basilica is punctuated by the Campanile or bell tower in front of it.   St Mark's is flanked by the  Renaissance style offices on the right (the 1500's), the Baroque style offices on the left (1600's), and behind you Napoleon's office wing (the 1800s) closing the square.  Standing in this gorgeous piazza watching the full moon rise over the gilded domes of St. Mark's was a highlight of arriving in Venice, especially since the square was almost empty!



Full Moon over Saint Mark's Basilica Venice, Italy
Full Moon Over St. Mark's Basilica



Devil's Forest Irish Pub in Venice Italy
After the excellent window shopping under the piazzas' arcades, which were softly illuminated by hundreds of glowing Christmas lights strung above our heads, we decided to stroll to the Rialto bridgeThe principal route between the two most famous sights in Venice is a trendy designer shopping street with Dolce and Gabbana, Prada, Versace and the rest. Tempting you with overly extravagant window displays, this lends to the dramatic atmosphere of Venice.  The Rialto Bridge at night was not as empty as Piazza San Marco. In fact, the Rialto Bridge was buzzing with tourists and locals alike enjoying shopping, restaurants and the many bars of this area.
We decided to pop into a  pub favoured by locals called the Devils Forest Pub for a drink.  Young, vibrant and FULL of Venetians; this Irish style pub seemed out of place in this elegant and aristocratic city. Classic rock blaring on the speakers, rugby on the TV and Irish beers on the taps we felt at home immediately, even though we were the only tourists in the place.  This is the real-deal Venice of today.
Back out into the soft glow of the night, we followed our "breadcrumbs," retracing our steps back to our Airbnb. I happily realize that I am truly and utterly enamoured with this floating city that really IS unlike any other in the world, and it is the beginning of a beautiful love affair with Venezia.

Did Venice live up to your imagination?  Let me know in the comments below!


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