ORVIETO~Classic Umbrian Hilltown

 

Set amidst a rolling landscape and surrounded by vineyards, Orvieto perches regally atop a rock outcrop 1000 feet above the valley floor...

Founded by the Etruscans around 500 BCE, Orvieto is thought by many archeologists to be the mysterious city of Velzna, a huge Etruscan city destroyed by the Romans. Later, when the Romans annexed the Etruscans, Orvieto became a major Roman stronghold because of its virtually impenetrable verticle cliffs. Orvieto became a refuge for the Pope and a castle during the Middle Ages. Many grand palaces and churches were built.

Today Orvieto, with its close proximity to the A1 Autostrada connecting Rome with Florence, has become quite the weekend destination for those escaping the big cities and a day-trip destination for foreign tourists.   While this gorgeously preserved Medieval hilltop town can be explored in one day, the real magic of Orvieto occurs at sunset when the crowds disperse, and the residents unwind.

To reach Orvietos Historical Center at the top of the cliffs, you can park at the funicular (near the train station) at the east end of town. There is also public parking on the west side of the cliffs, and you can take the elevator or escalator up to the top. Unless you have accommodation in the Centro Storico with complimentary parking, it is best to leave your car below, avoiding expensive parking fees and driving the very narrow one-way streets. If you decide to drive up to the centro storico, the most convenient parking lots are in the Piazza Cahen and Piazza del Duomo.

If you ride the funicular up to the old center, you are deposited at Piazza Cahen. There is an info centre here at the funicular station where you can get an Orvieto map and find information on various tours of the Orvieto Underground. The ruins of Rocca Albornoziana, a fortress from the mid-12th century, are to the left of Piazza Cahen. The view from here of the Umbrian countryside is outstanding. To your right are a public park, and beyond it, the remains of an ancient Etruscan Temple on the edge of the bluffs with more breathtaking views.  

St. Patricks Well

Towards the belvedere of the Etruscan temple remains is one of the most impressive feats of engineering in 16th century Italy; St. Patricks well. The Pozo di San Patrizio was built in 1527 by pope Clement while he stayed in Orvieto during the sack of Rome. The Pope knew the cliff walls of Orvieto would keep invaders at bay, but if they wanted to outlast an extended siege, the city would need an ample water supply. The well took only ten years to build and has a central shaft reaching down 53 metres (175 feet), and two separate paths spiral around the well. One path leads downwards, and the other spiral upwards so that mules carrying water only had one-way traffic to deal with. It's a fun workout to descend the 250 steps down, and the 70 windows offer those with slight claustrophobia some relief. The cost is €5, and the well is open 9-8. The audio guide is worth the €2 rental; bring a sweater-it's cold at the bottom!

Orvieto Cathedral

Orvieto is the perfect size town to manage by walking. The streets are flat and easy to stroll with the car-free Via Cavour or "the Corso" being the main route. Follow the Corso and listen for the Renaissance-era bells of Orvieto's Duomo or Cathedral. Glistening in gold and brightly coloured mosaics, the Duomo's facade is a feast for the eyes! Resembling Siena's Cathedral with its black & white striped marble, Orvieto's Duomo is also magnificent on the inside. Featuring frescoed ceilings started by Fra'Angelico and finished fifty years later by Luca Signorelli from the nearby Tuscan hill town of Cortona. Signorelli's masterpiece and not to be missed piece of art in Orvieto is the Chapel of San Brizio, featuring beautifully lit frescoed scenes of the Apocalypse. The entrance price for seeing the Cathedral, including the San Brizio Chapel, is €5.

Orvieto Underground

If you want more subterranean tours, The Well of The Cave (Pozzo della Cava) is a vast network of underground caverns, tunnels and wells dating back to the Roman and Etruscan civilizations of Orvieto. The tunnels provide an excellent exploring adventure for kids but are not for the claustrophobic! Self-guided tours are €4/€2.50 for children. For more information, visit pozzodellacava.it

Etruscan Tombs

There are two Etruscan burial sites at the base of Orvieto's cliff. Called a Necropolis, these are literally cities of the dead where the burial tombs look like miniature stone houses laid out in a city grid plan.  On the Southside of Orvieto is the Necropolis of Cannicella, and to the North of  the town is the Necropoli Etrusca del Crocifisso del Tufo.  This is the one I chose to visit because it had a large free parking lot and a small museum holding some of the archeological findings from the area. You can wander freely amongst the tombs that date back to the 5th century BCE and even go inside some of them. You can even see the Etruscan family name carved in stone above the tomb entrance. Tickets €3; closed Mondays & Tuesdays.

Orvieto Wine & Wine Tasting

Orvieto is known for its delicious white wines, appropriately named Orvieto Classico. A blend of 40% Grechetto, 20-40% Trebbiano (locally called Procanico) and up to 40% of other white grape blends such as Verdello and Malvasia Bianco. Orvieto Classico is a DOC wine is a pale straw colour that is light and crisp, with a delicate floral taste. There are many enoteca 0r wine bars to try different local wine varieties, including Orvieto "secco" or dry white. Another fun thing to do is tour a local vineyard and have a wine tasting. You can arrange this with the local Tourist Information Centre near the funicular station in Piazza Cahen or visit the tourist office online at orvietoviva.com to plan your tour. For more on discovering wines of Umbria, don't miss my popular blog post 7 Wines To Try In Umbria

Civita di Bagnoregio

A short 20km from Orvieto is the well-preserved Medieval village of Civita di Bagnoregio.  Considered a ghost town, Civita di Bagnoregio is nicknamed "The Dying Town" because of the gradual slide of its' perch atop a clay pillar into the steep valley below. Civita is connected by a 1 km pedestrian toll bridge crossing the canyon. It costs €5 to cross the bridge to Civita, which pays for the shoring up of the village's hillside. Stepping through the city gates is like stepping back through the mists of time; Renaissance, Medieval, Roman and Etruscan architecture blend together, becoming a fun scavenger hunt. The leisurely pace of life in Civita de Bagnoregio reminds one to slow down and enjoy the moment. Busses from Orvieto to Civita de Bagnoregio leave several times a day; check the orvietoviva.com site for the seasonal schedule. Also, check out my blog post on Civita di Bagnoregio for more information on what to see and do.

Orvieto becomes even more enchanting at night with all the day tourists from Rome gone and the historic buildings, palaces and churches delicately lit up. Stroll the Medieval city ramparts or sip a glass of wine and marvel at the Duomo. My favourite place to stay in Orvieto is La Casa di Tufo B&B right in the historic centre. I feel like I am staying with family at this charming B&B!

Orvieto is a place I stop to visit again and again. What is your favourite memory of Orvieto? The food, the wine, the architecture?

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Castiglione Del Lago~Perfect Family Destination In Umbria

Looking for a hidden family-friendly gem in Tuscany?  This peaceful lakeside town on the Tuscan border with Umbria has all the charms of a big resort, without any tourist crowds.

As a lover of "Slow Travel," I like to stay in one location for at least 3 days and explore the surrounding area.  On my visit to Tuscany, my small family rented part of a farmhouse in Cortona and made day trips to many destinations in Tuscany.  For great tips and Italy road-trip planning advice, read my blog post on: Tuscany Road Trip

Castiglione Del Lago Viewed From Cortona

It was a sweltry mid-September day in Tuscany, and it also happened to be my birthday, so nothing was planned on my travel itinerary.  I decided to be spontaneous, go on an adventure and find somewhere not listed in the guidebooks.  Looking at the map book, I decided to head for Lago Trasimeno to beat the heat.  Castiglione del Lago looked interesting and only 20 km from Cortona, featuring an ancient castle jutting out into a lake.  So I set our rental car's GPS, pressed go, and we were there less than half an hour later.

Gate in Medieval Wall

Castiglione del Lago is on the West side of Lago Trasimeno just across the Tuscan border in Umbria; Lake Trasimeno being the dividing line between Tuscany and Umbria.  The village of about 15,000 people today started as a castle on an island.  Over time as the city grew, the flat area between the castle and the shore was reclaimed and filled in with buildings and piazzas.  The town's well-preserved historical centre or centro storico is surrounded by a Medieval wall.  Castiglione del Lago's old town centre is known for its threes, meaning there are three city gates, three parallel streets (which is a Roman-era city layout), three piazzas and three churches.  The main sights in this charming town are the castle and the palace, but there is also a public park with a beach and free parking just to the north of the castle on Via Lungolago.  

The Centro Storico of Castiglione del Lago is within the Medieval walls and completely car-free, making it a delight to stroll.  There are several free and paid parking lots along Via Belvedere, the road that circles the Old Town.  I also found much free street parking just outside the walled city centre.  Most visitors enter Castiglione del Lago through the West Gate, the Porta Senese and wander along the main street, Via Vittorio Emanuele.  Here you will find a gauntlet of stores selling Prodotti Tipici or regional products like local cheeses, kinds of dried pasta, beans, spices, sweets, and olive oil.  

I loaded up on dried pici, a local thick hand-rolled pasta.  For more on local Tuscan products, read my blog post on: 10 Things You Must Eat In Tuscany

photo: Wolfgang Sauber

The main drag heads East towards the Lake, passing by the beautiful Church of Santa Maria Maddelena, with its neo-classic columns out front and Greek cross plan.  It's worth the peek inside to see the painted panels from 1580 and the lofty dome.  This church was once a Roman Temple when the Romans founded the city and was given the name Clusium Novum or New Chiusi.  Chiusi is a lovely Tuscan village and was an important Etruscan city located nearby.  To read about Chiusi, see my blog post: Chiusi Tuscany~Under The Etruscan Sun

Corridor to the castle

Following Via Vittorio Emanuele, you come to a grand Renaissance palace, the Palazzo della Corgna. This palace was built for the Duke della Corgna and serves as the city hall, civic museum and art gallery.  There are some beautiful frescoes in the palace, but the real fun is taking the long covered corridor to the Medieval star-shaped castle called the Rocca de Leone.  The castle was completed for Frederick II of Swabia in 1247 by the monk/architect Brother Elia.  Elia was a Franciscan monk from Cortona, who happened to be Saint Francis of Assisi's best friend and right-hand man.  For more information on Saint Francis and the shaping of Umbria, check out my blog post: St. Francis the Umbrian Rock Star!   

This long walkway leads you to a wonderfully restored stone fortress with sweeping views of Lake Trasimeno, the lake's islands, and Cortona climbing the distant mountainside.  Kids can have fun exploring the ramparts, climbing the tall three-sided bastion tower called "the masio," or take in the shade of the olive trees in the castle's bailey.

View From The Masio

If you have worked up an appetite from exploring the fortress, many excellent local Osterias serve local specialties from Lake Trasimeno.  Look for a dish called Brastico, which is fish fire-roasted over reeds from the shore of Lake Trasimeno.  Or perhaps try Tegamaccio, a soup made with several different types of lake fish, baked in terracotta pots for five hours.  Alternately you can grab some take-out food such as panini (sandwiches), arancini (deep-fried rice balls stuffed with meat and or cheese) or pizza sold by the gram and head to the public beach for a picnic.  The beach at Castiglione Del Lago is sandy; the water is warm, clear and shallow, perfect for kids to cool off on a hot day.  The lake water is tested daily from April through September to make sure it is safe for swimmers.

Family time in Tuscany has never been so much fun!  What is your favourite family activity when visiting Tuscany?  Let me know in the comments below...

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Italian Ghost Town Civita di Bagnoregio

Somewhere between Ghost Town and Fairy Tale Village floats Civita di Bagnoregio.  Referred to as "the Dying Town," Civita di Bagnoregio is a medieval wonderland lost in time...

Central Italy has no shortage of off-the-beaten-path hilltowns to discover.  The Provinces of Tuscany, Umbria and Lazio meet at the Valle dei Calanchi or Valley Of The Badlands and is home to one of Italy's most beautiful villages, Civita di Bagnoregio.  Civita is one of my favourite hilltowns for many reasons.  Civita is situated very close to Orvietto in Umbria and makes a great day trip.  Full of Medieval architecture, smack in the middle of a stunning canyon and is completely car-free and under-touristed.  Civita is Italy in the raw!

Italian Poet Fillipo Paparazzi once wrote that Civita di Bagnoregio was "an island bravely poised in the middle of the air, on the top of a truncated cone, above the immense abyss..."

Maria's Garden

Built upon a foundation of clay that is slowly eroding every year, Civita was founded by The Etruscans over 2,500 years ago, much like the town of Pitigliano. Much of the town has already slid into the canyon below, and the residents moved to the modern city of Bagnoregio, which used to be a suburb.  There are less than 20 permanent residents living in Civita today. Most of the well-cared-for homes in the village are weekend escapes for city folks.  There are more cats than inhabitants lounging in the shady gardens.  

Getting to Civita di Bagnoregio which lies two hours north of Rome, is simple.  The closest large town to Civita is Orvieto in Umbria.  There are busses leaving from Orvieto to the Bagnoregio bus station several times a day, and then it's a 20-minute walk to the bridge that crosses the canyon to Civita.  Alternately, there is a shuttle bus during tourist season that leaves the Bagnoregio bus station and drops you at the bridge crossing.  If you arrive by car, drive through Bagnoregio's main drag following the yellow street signs to Civita's parking lot.  There is a booth where you can pay to cross the toll bridge (in 2020, it is €5) and also where you can pay for hourly parking. 

A pedestrian footbridge stretches across the vast canyon, leading upward to the Roman archway, which is the village's entrance.  Stepping through the Porta Santa Maria arch, you walk along the Etruscan road that was carved 2,500 years ago.  These ancient cobbled roads had led to Rome before Rome WAS Rome!

Civita is a delightful place to spend an afternoon-WITH NO AGENDA.  

There are no main sights to see in Civita di Bagnorgio. The delight is to stroll the hamlet, take a million pictures, have lunch & a coffee and perhaps stop to pet the many, many cats here.  The village is tiny, so it doesn't take long to wander around it.  Enjoy the Etruscan carvings, the medieval layout of the town, the remains of the renaissance palace and the outdoor laundry sinks, the locals' meeting-place for decades.

On the main piazza, check out the church of San Donato.  You will notice round columns in front of the church. These were once the foundation of an Etruscan temple, then a Roman temple and finally a Christian cathedral.  Peeking inside the church is worth a moment to see the beautiful and haunting 15th-century crucifix carved out of pear wood.  

As you stroll the village and take in the views, wander the small alleyways, admire the display of flowers that explode from every window box and staircase.

At the end of the town, the main street begins to slowly wind downhill. The road eventually turns into a trail that villagers used to travel to attend their farms on the valley floor.  If you descend along the pathway, you begin to see caves carved out by the Etruscans 2,500 years ago!  These caves were used as wine cellars and storage for farm equipment until just a few decades ago. 

One cave has a gate in front of it, sealing it off, but you can peer inside.  This is the Cappella del Carcere or The Chapel of The Incarcerated.  This was most likely an Etruscan tomb, but in Medieval times it was used as the city's jail.  This humble "chapel" is a special place of worship for the few remaining Civita residents and is the town's starting point for religious processions.

Now that you have worked up an appetite exploring Civita, it's time for a meal!

There are many choices for food in Civita.  I decided to stop for a delicious lunch at a small Osteria off the main piazza called La Cantina di Arianna. Delicious "bruschetta" (toasted bread with local olive oil) and homemade salumi, and of course, the local Orvietto Classico white wine is the best!  Check out my blog post for more information on Wines to Try in Umbria.

My son had so much fun feeding the cats and their little kittens that gathered under our table during lunch.  It seems like outdoor dining in hill towns often means you will have little furry guests joining you for your meal.

Civita di Bagnoregio had soared in popularity since I first visited it in 2013 when it was just a sleepy little ghost town on the Tuscan-Umbrian border.  I recommend planning your visit to Civita earlier in the day or later in the evening, catching the sunset, to avoid the mass tour-bus crowds.  Just remember to slow down your pace and enjoy sauntering around this unique place on earth.

Have you been to Civita?  What was your impression; a tourist trap or a slice of heaven?  Let me know in the comments below!

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Saturnia Hot Springs, Tuscany

Tuscany is blessed with numerous thermal baths, known as "terme" in Italian.  Hot water springs from deep within the Earth, holding healing properties that make this area of Italy a paradise for spa lovers.


The Maremma region in Southern Tuscany is dotted with delightful thermal waters, resulting in both natural outdoor pools and spa resorts.  Southern Tuscany's sulfuric Terme waters also boast some of the most healing properties in all of Italy.  One of the best places to experience Terme in Tuscany is the quiet village of Saturnia, located in the deep south of Grosseto Province, near the border with Lazio.  

The settlement at Saturnia was called Aurinia by the Etruscans. A settlement has existed here since pre-Etruscan times and is thought to be one of the oldest cities in Italy, most likely due to the abundance of thermal springs.  There are Pre-Etruscan tombs in the area, like the Necropoli del Puntone (1 KM North of Saturnia on the road to Poggio Murello) that establish Saturnia as a Pelasgi settlement which was the region's indigenous people.

Etruscan and Roman structures around the village of Saturnia include the Etruscan walls, dating back to the 3rd and 4th centuries BCE, which incorporate the "Porta Romana," a Roman-era city gate.  The Via Clodia, a Roman road that leads to the Porta Romana, was built on an existing Etruscan Route linking Pitigliano, Sovana and Sorano, incorporating some of the mysterious Via Cave.  Check out my blog posts on these nearby attractions.  There are also remains of the ancient Roman baths at the far end of town on Via Italia.  There is also a picturesque castle in Saturnia called the Rocca di Saturna or Castello Ciacci by locals.  This was an Aldobrandesca Fortress built in the 1100s along the fortifying city walls by the original rulers, the famous Aldobrandeschi family of Sovana.  While in Saturnia, be sure to visit the small but interesting archaeological museum. 

The name Saturnia came from the Romans, who settled this area in 183 BCE.  Legend has it that the Roman God Saturnus (Saturn) was tired of the constant warring among humans in the area.  In a rage, Saturnus threw a thunderbolt from the heavens down to Earth, and where the thunderbolt stuck, a magical spring of warm water was created to pacify humankind.  This is the main attraction of Saturnia today.


There are two terme areas in Saturnia, a posh hotel spa and a natural thermal waterfall;  both of these originate from the same source.  The Terme di Saturnia Natural Spa and Golf Resort is a 124-room Five-Star hotel resort for those who want to pamper themselves.  You can book a full-day (€29) or half-day package (€25) at the resort without having to stay overnight in the hotel, which is an excellent alternative to the busy free hot springs.  Check out the resort website at termedisaturnia.it and navigate to the "Reservations & Gift Vouchers" section at the top right of the homepage to book a day package.

The more popular destination attracting locals and tourists alike is Gorello Falls.  An ancient stone mill sits atop Gorello Falls, also known as "Cascatelle del Mulino," or Miller's Falls, to the locals.  This is where one can sit outside in a cascade of warm water...  FOR FREE!!! 


Gorello Falls can be a hectic place, even in the offseason.  Follow the Strada Provinciale SP10 south from Saturnia towards Montemerano for about 2km, and you will see signs for the falls.  There are two parking lots for the springs, both are free.  The first and closest option is a large dirt parking lot at the end of Via della Follonata, which can be quite rough in spots where there have been seasonal washouts.  The overflow parking lot is also located on the SP10, just past the falls, and is a slightly farther walk to the springs. 

I visited Gorello Falls on a Sunday afternoon in late September, and the place was absolutely packed! Robust Russians were padding around in bathrobes, sexy Italian couples on their Vespas, German families camping out in Westfalias, and even locals with horses tied up in the shade of the treed parking lots!  It was a smorgasbord of people watching, and everyone was having a wonderful time.




You can smell the water before you see it; the slightly sulfuric scent emanates from the healing waters, which are at a perfect temperature of between 37 °C and 38 °C.  Cobalt blue calcium-rich water cascades down layered basins of smooth, white limestone at a rate of 800 litres per second.  Each of the little pools can hold about 3-5 adults quite comfortably.  Sitting in one of these stacked pools gives you the feeling that you are a giant pigeon in a warm Italian fountain!  The healing properties of the water are said to help cure vascular diseases and ease muscle tension and pain.  The mineral-rich black mud found at the bottom of the falls is known to alleviate skin disorders such as eczema and psoriasis, so it's common to see people smearing the dark clay all over their faces and bodies.  Remember, there are no storage facilities available at Gorello Falls, so please lock all your valuables in the trunk of your car and bring only your towel to the falls.

Gorello Falls In The Evening

Further upstream behind the old mill, the hot water runs in a swift-moving channel.  Older kids can ride the stream like a waterslide, but keep your eye on smaller children who can easily be swept up in the swift-moving current.  Even further upstream, there are spots where ropes are tied across the narrow river channel just below the water surface, which are not visible to the eye; be cautious not to get hung up on them!  

The best times to visit Cascate del Mulino during the busy tourist season, from April to October, are early in the morning, before 10:00 a.m., or in the evening, after 5:00 p.m.   There is a cafe/bar located near the falls that serves hot and cold snacks, sandwiches, gelato, and desserts, as well as beer and cold beverages. The cafe also provides shower and washroom facilities.  The Bar Cascate di Saturnia opens daily at 8 am and closes late. 

UPDATE: MARCH 2025- The restaurant Bar Cascate di Saturnia was closed for renovations, but the toilets/changerooms attached to the bar remained open.  You can access these from outside the bar.

 

Saturnia's hot springs have something for everyone, from elegant spas to free family fun, to romantic midnight dips under the moon and a blanket of stars❣

Have you visited Saturnia, Tuscany?  Which Terme did you prefer: the Spa or the free natural springs?  Let me know in the comments below.

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This post first appeared in September 2013 as Saturnia Tuscany; Saturn's Bathtub 

Sorano~Southern Tuscany's Best Kept Secret

Part of the group of three villages that make up the "Città del Tuffo," Sorano is a dramatic, fairy-tale Italian town that is Southern Tuscany's best-kept secret...until now.

Entrance To The Hotel Castle

Sorano is my favourite place in all of Italy.  Its red-tiled roofs are reminiscent of Siena in northern Tuscany but without the polish and refinement. Sorano doesn't have the history of Rome,  the art of Florence, or the serenity of Assisi.  Sorano isn't nearly as pretty as the Amalfi Coast or the Cinque Terre, but there is something so bewitching and mysterious about this rustic little Tuscan village. The Città del Tuffo include the towns of Sorano, Sovana and Pitigliano.








The town was considered a "dead" community by the government in 1923. Many of the homes and buildings have slid into the Lente River gorge since 1801.  But the Soranese have persisted, and Sorano is making a vibrant comeback in the past decade.  I haven't written about this enchanting village or told anyone about Sorano so that I could keep it my secret Tuscan getaway. But now the secret is out-BIG TIME.  The Netflix Original Series Luna Nera (Black Moon)  has filmed many scenes in Sorano.  The Netflix show is based on a book series about a group of 16th-century witches by Italian writer Tiziana Triana.  Most of the show is filmed in Rome at the Cinecitta studios and on various locations in Lazio and Southern Tuscany.  In the series, Sorano is transformed into the fictitious medieval village of Serra. Look out;  season 2 of Luna Nera is filming now!





We ended up in Sorano because my eleven-year-old son practically  begged to stay in a "real castle."  So then I did my research on castle stays in Tuscany and found Hotel della Fortezza in Sorano.  Castle hotels in Italy are quite costly, but the Hotel della Fortessa is an affordable luxury in an authentic piece of Italian medieval history!  Everything about this hotel is outstanding; the service, the rooms each with spectacular views, and the complimentary continental breakfast, which includes home-baked cakes and confectionaries.  The Fortezza became our home base for exploring the surrounding area like Pitigliano, Sovana, Saturnia and hiking the Vie Cave. Also housed in the Fortress is the Museum of the Middle Ages.  
  

View Of The Fortress From Masso Leopoldino

The Hotel della Fortezza sits upon the hill above the village of Sorano and dominates the skyline.  Most people coming into Sorano are driving and approach from the SP73 road that has a hairpin turn offering an outstanding view of the entire town, so be sure to pull over to snap a photo!  There is a  free city parking lot on Via San Marco next to the hotel parking, just follow the signs to Hotel della Fortezza.   The views of Sorano below from the hotel rooms are phenomenal!  The castle was initially built by the Aldobrandeschi family in the 13th century as a military stronghold.  Niccolò Orsini renovated it in 1552 around the same time as he rebuilt the fortress in Pitigliano to defend against the wars with Siena and Orvieto.

Passageway From The Castle To The Village

Sorano spread below the castle begs to be explored! You can take a pathway from the fortress down to the village via the arched walkway.  This town has been inhabited since the Villanovan people who predate the Etruscan culture.  This is evident in the number of caves carved into the tufa rock along the Lente River at the base of Sorano.  The Latin name for Sorano was Soranus. This is referring to the village as a "the city of the dead," because all of the columbaria or caves the Romans found. First, these caves were used as a resting place for the ashes of the dead. Later, as the inhabitants moved up the cliffs, and these caves became dwellings, then shelter for livestock.  The caves are still used today as storage for farm equipment.

Another commanding feature of Sorano is the Masso Leopoldino.  This elevated area was carved from natural tuff stone to form a fortified panoramic terrace.  Built in the 17th century, Masso Leopoldino was named after Duke Leopold of Lorraine.  The fort was constructed over an existing set of medieval structures to improve the fortified city walls of Sorano.  The views from the balcony of Sorano; the Orsini fortress on one side and the Lente river gorge on the other is phenomenal.   When enjoying the views from Masso Leopoldino mind your young travellers, there are no extra special guard rails to keep them from tumbling over the edge! 





Clinging to the side of Masso Leopoldino is the remnant of Sorano's Jewish Ghetto. Like Pitigliano, Sorano had a substantial Ebraic community after the Jewish people left the Papal lands of Lazio in the late 1500s.  Wandering through this maze of pathways leads you to the most magnificent Medieval gate, the Porta dei Merli.  Also known as the Porta del Sotto, this massive gate is made of ashlar stone construction from the Lente riverbed and is crowned with an impressive coat of arms.  

This path leads down to the Lente River and on into the forest where the trail becomes a mysterious Etruscan pathway called a 'Via Cava.'  Every year at dawn on the Spring Equinox, the residents of Sorano hold a candlelight procession from the church above, along this trail to the Lente riverbed. 








Another ancient tradition in Sorano involves food.  The delicious Sorano ham is known throughout Italy and is celebrated in the first week of August every year during the "Festa of Ham."  Also, sample the local sheep milk ricotta cheese and the caciotta with a glass of the delicious local white wine!
Local artisan shops are lined down the main street of the historical centre.  Olive oil, leather items and olive wood products from Sorano are highly prized.  There is a fantastic woodcarving shop called  "La Bottega Del Lengo"  just past the historic centre city gate, called the Porta di Sopra.  Follow the street from Sorano's panoramic Piazza Pietro Del Lengo through the city gate, and the shop is just beyond on Via Giovanni Selvi #4.  La Bottega Del Lengo makes fantastic olive wood cutting boards, utensils & household items, even jewelry!








Honestly, the best part of Sorano is just wandering around the village and taking in the views of the red-tiled roofs, ancient stonework and soaking in the rustic atmosphere.  Get lost amongst the labyrinth of alleyways, staircases and underpasses that give Sorano that medieval atmosphere.  



Don't forget to visit all the friendly cats! 😻     

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