5 Tips For First Timer's To Lisbon, Portugal

 

With a castle-topped hill, lively grand squares, brightly tiled buildings, and endless views, Lisbon is a bustling wonder.  My first time in the colourful  Portuguese capital was a delightful whirlwind that left me longing for more.

Lisbon has been changing over the past 10 years.  Once the Portuguese capital was a European bargain, but the word has gotten out, and Lisbon is as expensive as Rome, Barcelona or Paris. The recent increase in tourism and expats moving to Portugal has caused a lot of growing pains for Lisboetas, driving up housing prices and pushing locals out of the city.  There are still some authentic slices of Lisbon culture to be enjoyed if you know where to look.

For a first-time visit to Lisbon, I recommend at least a 3-night stay; 5 nights would be ideal if you have the time. International travellers will most likely arrive at Humberto Delgado Airport in Lisbon.  It's a bustling hub about a 15-20 minute ride from the downtown area. In the arrivals hall, right after you clear customs, there is a tourist information center where you can grab some maps, purchase a LISBOA card, and get up-to-date information that may not be in a guidebook or on any tourist websites.  

TIP #1 THE LISBOA CARD is an all-in-one attraction/transportation card that allows you to use all public transport, like subway, buses, trams, funiculars and even trains, as well as entry into 51 museums and monuments.  The LISBOA card is available in 24 hours for 31€, 48 hours for 51€  and 72 hours for 62€ validity windows. I purchased a 72-hour LISBOA card that lasted the duration of my stay. The card ended up saving me a lot of time, money and hassle of buying a separate public transit card. Many museums let you skip the ticket lines with the LISBOA card, which can save you hours.  The LISBOA card is valid from the first time it is used to enter an attraction or public transportation.  

BE AWARE: MOST ATTRACTIONS IN LISBON ARE CLOSED ON MONDAYS!

TIP #2 GETTING AROUND LISBON  I found the best way to get from the airport to central Lisbon is the subway. In 2026, the cost was €1.90 plus a €.50 for the reloadable Navegante card that allows you to zap on and off the public transport.  I used my LISBOA card, which I purchased at the airport when I landed. There are only 4 metro lines that service Lisbon, making it simple to navigate the city, and it only took me 30 minutes during morning rush hour to get to my accommodation.  Taxis are expensive during rush hour, and yes, you can get ripped off easily. It costs about €20 to get from the airport to central Lisbon.  There are also two popular ride-share apps in Portugal: Uber and BOLT.  Bolt is cheaper and more popular than taxis or even Uber, and even delivers food.  For example, it only cost me €8 to get back to the airport when it was time to leave Lisbon.  That's less than half the price of a taxi! 

For all things transportation in Lisbon, there is a really helpful YouTube channel called: "ROAD TRIP SPAIN & PORTUGAL"  linked: HERE 

Tip #3 CHOOSE FOOTWARE WISELY  Like Rome, Lisbon is known as "The City of the Seven Hills," but unlike Rome, these hills are incredibly steep and will leave your calves burning! Be aware that the danger levels increase for slips when the beautiful polished white Limestone and black Basalt cobblestones called calçada become wet with rain or humidity, they turn incredibly slick. Look for Escadinhas da Saúde, which are outdoor public escalators. You can even set your route navigation in Google Maps to wheelchair accessible in your route options, to show you a route using escalators, funiculars and elevators that are sometimes located inside public buildings.  A fun way to take a break from walking is to ride one of the vintage trams back to your accommodations.  If you want to ride the iconic Tram 28, do so early in the day or not at all.  The lines of tourists trying to cram like Portuguese sardines into the tram are not a fun experience.

    

  

TIP #4 GET LOST IN ALFAMA & MOURARIA       These two districts are the oldest areas of  Lisbon that survived the 1755 earthquake.  I stayed at an Airbnb in the Alfama district of Lisbon, so I could explore the Medieval charm and narrow pedestrian streets in the evening after a day of sightseeing.  There are many authentic traditional restaurants called Tasca's in this area.  Lisbon's Castelo São Jorge was a short walk away through the maze-like streets. Arriving in Lisbon on a Monday morning, most attractions covered by the Lisboa Card are CLOSED.  São Jorge Castle is open 7 days a week from 9 am-9 pm, and has some of the most fantastic views of the city.  

Alfama is also the home of Fado music, a traditional folk blues that is usually performed in restaurants and bars.   I went to Alfama Grill that had wonderful Fado singing starting around 6-7 pm.  If you are interested in the tradition of Fado, don't miss the Museum of Fado: museudofado.pt

Tip #5 ADJUST YOUR EATING TIMES Breakfast in Portugal is quick and light. Your traditional egg custard tarts, called pastéis de nata, are enjoyed with your coffee and later as a snack (lanche) in the afternoon around 4 pm.  Lunch is between 12:30 and 3 pm, often a quick hot pork sandwich on a crusty roll called a bifana that people line up for at a lunch counter.  Dinner is usually at night between 8 and 10 pm, which can be late for many North Americans.  The waiter will bring the table an appetizer called a couvert.  This is not free and will be added to your bill if you do not tell your waiter no thank you.  Dinner in Lisbon is a hearty, relaxed affair when you can linger over delicious house wine and grilled seafood. The menu will always have bacalhau or cod and sardine dishes that are staples in all Lisbon restaurants.

Stay tuned for more practical planning advice for Lisbon and the rest of Portugal!

 I hope these tips have been helpful in planning your first trip to the radiant city of Lisbon.  If you would like to add a tip for folks, please leave them in the comments below.

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Spring Road Trip Through Portugal

 

Lisbon has captivated me since the 2020 pandemic, when my world of travel was confined to books, Instagram posts and my laptop. The more I uncovered about Portugal's abundance of history, vibrant culture and breathtaking natural beauty beyond Lisbon, the stronger the call to explore this wonderful country became.  2026 was the time to finally answer that call.

Since this was my first visit to Portugal, I wanted to experience as many regions of this beautiful country as possible. I aimed to strike a balance between the excitement of big cities, inspiring historical sites, quaint country villages, and seaside relaxation, all of which would give me a taste of authentic Portugal. However, my dilemma was that I wanted to see it all!

I invested a lot of time into planning my itinerary, leaving little room for flexibility or spontaneous adventures, which is not typical of my "Slow Travel" style. I wanted to explore more of Portugal beyond the popular destinations of Lisbon, Porto, and the Algarve. As I researched my options, I felt overwhelmed by the choices between historical sites like castles, monasteries, and palaces.  Not to mention so many charming villages and natural parks. Ultimately, I decided to create one large circular route that would start and end in Lisbon, heading northward to explore the diverse regions.

The adventure begins in Lisbon, where I spend four days exploring the city and take a side day-trip to romantic Sintra.  Then I pick up a car at the airport and head to the Central Coast surf mecca of Nazaré for some chill time, stopping in the medieval village of Óbidos.  From Nazaré, there are some awe-inspiring historical sights to visit all within a thirty-minute drive: Tomar, Batalha and Alcobaca.

Heading North again, I made a stop in the historic University town of Coimbra for one night before arriving in Portugal's second largest city, Porto.

After spending two nights in the vibrant city of Porto, I headed inland along the Douro River to explore Portugal's most famous wine region.  Pinhão was my base for exploring the Douro River region by boat and a nearby village, Vila Nova de Foz Côa, for an archeological safari.

This is where I started to head south from the Duoro valley, to the Beira Baixa district, into the Serra da Estrella mountain range.  Perched on top of a granite mountain, my next stop is the magical village of Monsanto.

Continuing my journey South into the Alentejo region, I spend a night wandering the whitewashed streets of Évora, taking in the magnificent Roman sights. Nearby, an ancient stone circle on the outskirts of the city begs to be explored.

 

For the last portion of my trip to Portugal, I head to the country's southern coast, spending four days in the Algarve region. Based out of the charming small town of Carvoeiro, I explore the Seven Valley Hiking Trail and the famous Benagil sea caves.  

A trip to the Algarve's South Coast wouldn't be complete without a visit to what was once considered the "End of the World" of Cape Sagres, now a modern surfer haven.  

The journey concludes with returning the rental car to the Lisbon airport and spending my last night in the Olivais district of Lisbon.

Have you experienced the wonders of Portugal? I’d love to hear all about your adventures! Share in the comments what captivated you the most during your trip and your top “must-see” spots for our epic Portuguese road trip! Let's uncover the gems of this beautiful country together!

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Hidden Umbria: Civita di Bagnoregio

Somewhere between Ghost Town and Fairy Tale Village floats Civita di Bagnoregio.  Referred to as "the Dying Town," Civita di Bagnoregio is a medieval wonderland lost in time...

Central Italy has no shortage of off-the-beaten-path hill towns to discover.  The Provinces of Tuscany, Umbria and Lazio meet at the Valle dei Calanchi or Valley Of The Badlands and is home to one of Italy's most beautiful villages, Civita di Bagnoregio.  Civita is situated about 24 km to Orvieto in Umbria, making it a perfect day trip.  Full of Medieval architecture, smack in the middle of a stunning canyon and Civita di Bagnoregio is completely car-free. 

Italian Poet Fillipo Paparazzi once wrote that Civita di Bagnoregio was "an island bravely poised in the middle of the air, on the top of a truncated cone, above the immense abyss..."

Maria's Garden

Built upon a foundation of tufa upon clay that is slowly eroding with every passing year, Civita di Bagnoregio was founded by The Etruscans over 2,500 years ago. Like the town of Pitigliano, the Romans took over in 265 BCE and renamed the settlement Bagnoregium.  Much of the town has already slid into the canyon below after a massive earthquake, and the residents moved across the ravine to the modern city of Bagnoregio.  There are less than 20 permanent residents living in Civita di Bagnoregio today. Most of the well-cared-for homes in the village are weekend escapes for city folks.  There are more cats than inhabitants lounging in the shady gardens.  

Getting to Civita di Bagnoregio which lies two hours north of Rome, is simple.  The closest large town to Civita is Orvieto in Umbria.  There are busses leaving from Orvieto to the Bagnoregio bus station several times a day, and then it's a 20-minute walk to the bridge that crosses the canyon to Civita.  Alternately, there is a shuttle bus during tourist season that leaves the Bagnoregio bus station and drops you at the bridge crossing.  If you arrive by car, drive through Bagnoregio's main street following the yellow street signs to Civita di Banoregio's metered parking lot.  There is a booth where you can pay to cross the footbridge (in 2026, it is €5),

A pedestrian footbridge stretches across the vast canyon, leading upward to the Roman archway, which is the village's entrance.  Stepping through the Porta Santa Maria arch, you walk along the Etruscan road that was carved 2,500 years ago.  These ancient cobbled roads had led to Rome before Rome WAS Rome!

Civita di Bagnoregio is a delightful place to spend an afternoon-WITH NO AGENDA.  

There are no main sights to see in Civita di Bagnorgio. The delight is to stroll the hamlet, take a million pictures, have lunch & a coffee and perhaps stop to pet the many, many cats here.  The village is tiny, so it doesn't take long to wander around it.  Enjoy the Etruscan carvings, the medieval layout of the town, the remains of the renaissance palace. Find the outdoor laundry sinks, where the locals have been meeting for decades.

On the main piazza, check out the church of San Donato.  You will notice round columns in front of the church. These were once the foundation of an Etruscan temple, then a Roman temple and finally a Christian cathedral.  Take a moment to peek inside the church to admire the beautiful and haunting 15th-century crucifix carved out of pear wood.  

As you stroll the village and take in the views, wander the small alleyways, admire the display of flowers that explode from every window box and staircase.

At the end of the town, the main street begins to slowly wind downhill. The road eventually turns into a trail that villagers used to travel to attend their farms on the valley floor.  If you descend along the pathway, you begin to see caves carved out by the Etruscans 2,500 years ago!  These caves were used as wine cellars and storage for farm equipment until just a few decades ago. 

One cave has a gate in front of it, sealing it off, but you can peer inside.  This is the Cappella del Carcere or The Chapel of The Incarcerated.  This was most likely an Etruscan tomb, but in Medieval times it was used as the city's jail.  This humble "chapel" is a special place of worship for the few remaining Civita residents and is the town's starting point for religious processions.  Now that you have worked up an appetite exploring Civita, it's time for a meal!

There are many choices for food in Civita.  I decided to stop for a delicious lunch at a small Osteria off the main piazza called La Cantina di Arianna. Delicious "bruschetta" (toasted bread with local olive oil) and homemade salumi, and of course, the local Orvieto Classico white wine is the best!  Check out my blog post for more information on Wines to Try in Umbria.  My son had so much fun feeding the cats and their little kittens that gathered under our table during lunch.  It seems like outdoor dining in hill towns often means you will have little furry guests joining you for your meal.

Civita di Bagnoregio had soared in popularity since I first visited it in 2013 when it was just a sleepy little ghost town on the Tuscan-Umbrian border.  I recommend planning your visit to Civita earlier in the day or later in the evening, catching the sunset, to avoid the mass tour-bus crowds.  Just remember to slow down your pace and enjoy sauntering around this unique place on earth.

Have you been to Civita?  What was your impression; a tourist trap or a slice of heaven?  Let me know in the comments below!

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ORVIETO~Classic Umbrian Hilltown

 

Set amidst a rolling landscape and surrounded by vineyards, Orvieto perches regally atop a rock outcrop 1000 feet above the valley floor...

Founded by the Etruscans around 500 BCE, Orvieto is thought by many archeologists to be the mysterious city of Velzna, a huge Etruscan city destroyed by the Romans. Later, when the Romans annexed the Etruscans, Orvieto became a major Roman stronghold because of its virtually impenetrable verticle cliffs. Orvieto became a refuge for the Pope and a castle during the Middle Ages. Many grand palaces and churches were built.

Today Orvieto, with its close proximity to the A1 Autostrada connecting Rome with Florence, has become quite the weekend destination for those escaping the big cities and a day-trip destination for foreign tourists.   While this gorgeously preserved Medieval hilltop town can be explored in one day, the real magic of Orvieto occurs at sunset when the crowds disperse, and the residents unwind.

To reach Orvietos Historical Center at the top of the cliffs, you can park at the funicular (near the train station) at the east end of town. There is also public parking on the west side of the cliffs, and you can take the elevator or escalator up to the top. Unless you have accommodation in the Centro Storico with complimentary parking, it is best to leave your car below, avoiding expensive parking fees and driving the very narrow one-way streets. If you decide to drive up to the centro storico, the most convenient parking lots are in the Piazza Cahen and Piazza del Duomo.

If you ride the funicular up to the old center, you are deposited at Piazza Cahen. There is an info centre here at the funicular station where you can get an Orvieto map and find information on various tours of the Orvieto Underground. The ruins of Rocca Albornoziana, a fortress from the mid-12th century, are to the left of Piazza Cahen. The view from here of the Umbrian countryside is outstanding. To your right are a public park, and beyond it, the remains of an ancient Etruscan Temple on the edge of the bluffs with more breathtaking views.  

St. Patricks Well

Towards the belvedere of the Etruscan temple remains is one of the most impressive feats of engineering in 16th century Italy; St. Patricks well. The Pozo di San Patrizio was built in 1527 by pope Clement while he stayed in Orvieto during the sack of Rome. The Pope knew the cliff walls of Orvieto would keep invaders at bay, but if they wanted to outlast an extended siege, the city would need an ample water supply. The well took only ten years to build and has a central shaft reaching down 53 metres (175 feet), and two separate paths spiral around the well. One path leads downwards, and the other spiral upwards so that mules carrying water only had one-way traffic to deal with. It's a fun workout to descend the 250 steps down, and the 70 windows offer those with slight claustrophobia some relief. The cost is €5, and the well is open 9-8. The audio guide is worth the €2 rental; bring a sweater-it's cold at the bottom!

Orvieto Cathedral

Orvieto is the perfect size town to manage by walking. The streets are flat and easy to stroll with the car-free Via Cavour or "the Corso" being the main route. Follow the Corso and listen for the Renaissance-era bells of Orvieto's Duomo or Cathedral. Glistening in gold and brightly coloured mosaics, the Duomo's facade is a feast for the eyes! Resembling Siena's Cathedral with its black & white striped marble, Orvieto's Duomo is also magnificent on the inside. Featuring frescoed ceilings started by Fra'Angelico and finished fifty years later by Luca Signorelli from the nearby Tuscan hill town of Cortona. Signorelli's masterpiece and not to be missed piece of art in Orvieto is the Chapel of San Brizio, featuring beautifully lit frescoed scenes of the Apocalypse. The entrance price for seeing the Cathedral, including the San Brizio Chapel, is €5.

Orvieto Underground

If you want more subterranean tours, The Well of The Cave (Pozzo della Cava) is a vast network of underground caverns, tunnels and wells dating back to the Roman and Etruscan civilizations of Orvieto. The tunnels provide an excellent exploring adventure for kids but are not for the claustrophobic! Self-guided tours are €4/€2.50 for children. For more information, visit pozzodellacava.it

Etruscan Tombs

There are two Etruscan burial sites at the base of Orvieto's cliff. Called a Necropolis, these are literally cities of the dead where the burial tombs look like miniature stone houses laid out in a city grid plan.  On the Southside of Orvieto is the Necropolis of Cannicella, and to the North of  the town is the Necropoli Etrusca del Crocifisso del Tufo.  This is the one I chose to visit because it had a large free parking lot and a small museum holding some of the archeological findings from the area. You can wander freely amongst the tombs that date back to the 5th century BCE and even go inside some of them. You can even see the Etruscan family name carved in stone above the tomb entrance. Tickets €3; closed Mondays & Tuesdays.

Orvieto Wine & Wine Tasting

Orvieto is known for its delicious white wines, appropriately named Orvieto Classico. A blend of 40% Grechetto, 20-40% Trebbiano (locally called Procanico) and up to 40% of other white grape blends such as Verdello and Malvasia Bianco. Orvieto Classico is a DOC wine is a pale straw colour that is light and crisp, with a delicate floral taste. There are many enoteca 0r wine bars to try different local wine varieties, including Orvieto "secco" or dry white. Another fun thing to do is tour a local vineyard and have a wine tasting. You can arrange this with the local Tourist Information Centre near the funicular station in Piazza Cahen or visit the tourist office online at orvietoviva.com to plan your tour. For more on discovering wines of Umbria, don't miss my popular blog post 7 Wines To Try In Umbria

Civita di Bagnoregio

A short 20km from Orvieto is the well-preserved Medieval village of Civita di Bagnoregio.  Considered a ghost town, Civita di Bagnoregio is nicknamed "The Dying Town" because of the gradual slide of its' perch atop a clay pillar into the steep valley below. Civita is connected by a 1 km pedestrian toll bridge crossing the canyon. It costs €5 to cross the bridge to Civita, which pays for the shoring up of the village's hillside. Stepping through the city gates is like stepping back through the mists of time; Renaissance, Medieval, Roman and Etruscan architecture blend together, becoming a fun scavenger hunt. The leisurely pace of life in Civita de Bagnoregio reminds one to slow down and enjoy the moment. Busses from Orvieto to Civita de Bagnoregio leave several times a day; check the orvietoviva.com site for the seasonal schedule. Also, check out my blog post on Civita di Bagnoregio for more information on what to see and do.

Orvieto becomes even more enchanting at night with all the day tourists from Rome gone and the historic buildings, palaces and churches delicately lit up. Stroll the Medieval city ramparts or sip a glass of wine and marvel at the Duomo. My favourite place to stay in Orvieto is La Casa di Tufo B&B right in the historic centre. I feel like I am staying with family at this charming B&B!

Orvieto is a place I stop to visit again and again. What is your favourite memory of Orvieto? The food, the wine, the architecture?

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