Montepulciano, Tuscany~Vistas & Vino!

Stradling, a ridge between the Chiana and Orcia Valleys, the Tuscan hill town of Montepulciano, offers visitors sweeping vistas, rustic Tuscan food and world-class wine...it's all vino & vistas

Sitting on a 2,000-foot limestone ridge near the Umbrian border, Montepulciano was said to have been founded by an Etruscan king in the 4th century BCE.  The city grew in Roman times increasing in importance and has been ruled alternately by Siena and Florence over the centuries, with each ruling city leaving their distinct marks on Montepulciano.   The Middle Ages saw constant fighting amongst Montepulciano's noble families until the Del Pecora family, who had ties to Santa Margherita of Cortona, became the rulers in 1390. 

Today Montepulciano doesn't offer travelers a list of must-see sights to tick off their list; instead, an authentic experience of  Tuscan food, wine and relaxed wandering.

Montepulciano is around 70 km south of Siena, 124 km south of Florence, 186 km north of Rome, but just a half-hour drive from my VBRO rental villa in Cortona. In fact,  I can see the lights of Montepulciano each night from the terraced yard that overlooks the beautiful Val di Chiana.  Montepulciano is easy to navigate, the newer part of town is at the bottom of the hill full of gift shops, gelaterias and restaurants gearing towards the tourist hoards.  The real treasure of Montepulciano is at the top of the hill where the historical center hides a fortress, the Duomo and palazzos for days...

Driving in Montepulciano is not advised.  Most of the historical centre is restricted to local traffic only or zona traffic limitation.  There are several easily accessible day parking lots around the edges of the town.  Signs to the parking lots are well marked and numbered 1-8.  If you are looking for free parking near the historical centre, try lot #8 near the Fortezza.

The inviting castle is the very top of town.  Constructed in the 1200s on top of Roman ruins, the Fortezza is Montepulciano's art and cultural centre, hosting all sorts of exhibits and events for locals and tourists alike. 

Entering the main square, Piazza Grande, one can't help but notice this Piazza feels somehow familiar.
This central square is dominated by the Palazzo Comunale, which looks very similar to the Palazzo Vecchio in Florence.  Florence ruled this hill town in the middle ages, and Piazza Grande is covered with the Medici coat of arms showing that Montepulciano was aligned with Florence's power & wealth. The town is absolutely gorgeous, with endless views of the Tuscan countryside. I can see why Montepulciano was the Renaissance stomping grounds for the Florentine elite.

Look for the Pozzo or well in Piazza Grande.  Beneath it is a giant cistern that held water for all the surrounding palaces.   Above the well are two lions, the symbol of the powerful Medici family of Florence.  The lions hold up the Medici coat of arms, kind of like a paid political advertisement of the Middle Ages~ "This clean water brought to you by The Medici Family...you're welcome."

For 360 degree views of the Tuscan countryside, a trip up the tower of Palazzo Comunale is a must.  To climb the tower, head into the palazzo and up the stairs on the left.  On the second floor is the cashier office (open 10am-6pm) and it a €5 entrance fee.  From the top of the tower, Montepulciano flows down the hill like a silk veil into the lush Tuscan farmland- so breathtakingly beautiful.   You also get views of the square below with Palazzo de' Nobili-Tarugi in its arcaded Renaissance splendor, the Duomo with its unfinished facade, Palazzo Contucci. The Contucci palace was built by del Pecora family whose son hid Saint Margherita of Cortona away as his mistress, and is surrounded by many other stunning Renaissance palaces in the Piazza. 

Photo of San Biagio by Klaus Stebani

From your perch on the top of the tower, you can see the domed church on San Biagio below.  This domed masterpiece was the work of Renaissance artist Antonio da Sangallo who also designed Palazzo Tarugi.  Both of these elegant buildings are built out of locally quarried travertine marble. Bramante, the master architect, spent time in Montepulciano, and the dome of San Biagio influenced his design of St. Peter's dome at the Vatican.  A walk down to San Biagio along Via di San Biagio from San Francesco church is a delightful stroll.


A quick peeked into the Duomo on the Piazza Grande for a look at the art is worth the stop.  The church was supposed to be covered by Travertine marble, but the town was cut off from funds when Siena was overpowered by Florence.  To the left, when you enter the Duomo, is the Early Renaissance work by Sienese master Andrea Della Robbia.  The "Alter of Lilies" in the baptismal font is a gorgeous glazed terracotta piece that is all golden & gothic.    



Behind the altar of the church is a three-panel retable by Sienese early Renaissance artist Taddeo di Bartolo. Painted in 1401, this altarpiece includes a self-portrait of the artist as one of the apostles.  This panel was painted in-situ, which means this work of art is displayed in the place that it was intended to for-not a museum.  It's my favourite way to appreciate the art the way the artist intended it to be experienced.
Other treasures in Montepulciano must be experienced, but not of the visual sense...

Corso of Montepulciano

Montepulciano is known for a few food specialties like honey, a thick hand-rolled pasta called pinci that looks like fat spaghetti and, of course, its wine: Vino Nobile di Montepulciano.  Vino Nobile is the other heavyweight wine of Tuscany alongside Chianti and Brunello.  Not to be confused with Montepulciano d'Abruzzo wine, which made from a grape variety called Montepulciano, or Rosso di Montepulciano a lighter version of Vino Nobile.  The DOCG regulated Vino Nobile is made from mostly Sangiovese grapes, some Canaiolo Nero and a splash of Mammolo grapes and aged 2 years, with half that time in oak barrels.  Spend some time in a wine cellar like the one in the Contucci Palace tasting the Vino Nobile.  The Contucci family has been living in this Palace for almost 1,000 years, and there is nothing like sampling wines in a cellar dating back to the 13th century.   www.contucci.it    



Next, I headed downhill and ran a gauntlet of wine stores, passing many delightful artisan shops and found a quiet little "trattoria."  Sitting outside a tiny piazza overlooked by a whimsical clocktower on top of Palazzo Bucelli, I had a very memorable lunch.  It was a hot afternoon in the mid-September sun, so I ordered  "Panzanella" which is a type of Tuscan traditional dish of bread salad with tomatoes and olive oil.  Along with the salad, I had a "mezzo" litre or half-litre of local white wine, Montepulciano Bianco.  This local wine is the colour of pale straw; light, sweet and crisp-perfect for a summer lunch one a patio.  I wish I had picked up a bottle to bring home.


If you can stay in Montepulciano into the evening, or better yet, overnight, you will find the town makes an almost audible sigh of relief as the day-trippers return to the big cities.  As the sun sinks below the sun-drenched Tuscan hills, the shops close, and locals relax and full restaurants spill out into the piazzas.  This is the time of day when you forget Montepulciano's history and the sights and just enjoy the vibe of the town and being in the moment. 

Whether you are a wine connoisseur, an architecture devotee or just like beautiful scenery, Montepulciano has it all!   

 

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ORVIETO~Classic Umbrian Hilltown

 

Set amidst a rolling landscape and surrounded by vineyards, Orvieto perches regally atop a rock outcrop 1000 feet above the valley floor...

Founded by the Etruscans around 500 BCE, Orvieto is thought by many archeologists to be the mysterious city of Velzna, a huge Etruscan city destroyed by the Romans. Later, when the Romans annexed the Etruscans, Orvieto became a major Roman stronghold because of its virtually impenetrable verticle cliffs. Orvieto became a refuge for the Pope and a castle during the Middle Ages. Many grand palaces and churches were built.

Today Orvieto, with its close proximity to the A1 Autostrada connecting Rome with Florence, has become quite the weekend destination for those escaping the big cities and a day-trip destination for foreign tourists.   While this gorgeously preserved Medieval hilltop town can be explored in one day, the real magic of Orvieto occurs at sunset when the crowds disperse, and the residents unwind.

To reach Orvietos Historical Center at the top of the cliffs, you can park at the funicular (near the train station) at the east end of town. There is also public parking on the west side of the cliffs, and you can take the elevator or escalator up to the top. Unless you have accommodation in the Centro Storico with complimentary parking, it is best to leave your car below, avoiding expensive parking fees and driving the very narrow one-way streets. If you decide to drive up to the centro storico, the most convenient parking lots are in the Piazza Cahen and Piazza del Duomo.

If you ride the funicular up to the old center, you are deposited at Piazza Cahen. There is an info centre here at the funicular station where you can get an Orvieto map and find information on various tours of the Orvieto Underground. The ruins of Rocca Albornoziana, a fortress from the mid-12th century, are to the left of Piazza Cahen. The view from here of the Umbrian countryside is outstanding. To your right are a public park, and beyond it, the remains of an ancient Etruscan Temple on the edge of the bluffs with more breathtaking views.  

St. Patricks Well

Towards the belvedere of the Etruscan temple remains is one of the most impressive feats of engineering in 16th century Italy; St. Patricks well. The Pozo di San Patrizio was built in 1527 by pope Clement while he stayed in Orvieto during the sack of Rome. The Pope knew the cliff walls of Orvieto would keep invaders at bay, but if they wanted to outlast an extended siege, the city would need an ample water supply. The well took only ten years to build and has a central shaft reaching down 53 metres (175 feet), and two separate paths spiral around the well. One path leads downwards, and the other spiral upwards so that mules carrying water only had one-way traffic to deal with. It's a fun workout to descend the 250 steps down, and the 70 windows offer those with slight claustrophobia some relief. The cost is €5, and the well is open 9-8. The audio guide is worth the €2 rental; bring a sweater-it's cold at the bottom!

Orvieto Cathedral

Orvieto is the perfect size town to manage by walking. The streets are flat and easy to stroll with the car-free Via Cavour or "the Corso" being the main route. Follow the Corso and listen for the Renaissance-era bells of Orvieto's Duomo or Cathedral. Glistening in gold and brightly coloured mosaics, the Duomo's facade is a feast for the eyes! Resembling Siena's Cathedral with its black & white striped marble, Orvieto's Duomo is also magnificent on the inside. Featuring frescoed ceilings started by Fra'Angelico and finished fifty years later by Luca Signorelli from the nearby Tuscan hill town of Cortona. Signorelli's masterpiece and not to be missed piece of art in Orvieto is the Chapel of San Brizio, featuring beautifully lit frescoed scenes of the Apocalypse. The entrance price for seeing the Cathedral, including the San Brizio Chapel, is €5.

Orvieto Underground

If you want more subterranean tours, The Well of The Cave (Pozzo della Cava) is a vast network of underground caverns, tunnels and wells dating back to the Roman and Etruscan civilizations of Orvieto. The tunnels provide an excellent exploring adventure for kids but are not for the claustrophobic! Self-guided tours are €4/€2.50 for children. For more information, visit pozzodellacava.it

Etruscan Tombs

There are two Etruscan burial sites at the base of Orvieto's cliff. Called a Necropolis, these are literally cities of the dead where the burial tombs look like miniature stone houses laid out in a city grid plan.  On the Southside of Orvieto is the Necropolis of Cannicella, and to the North of  the town is the Necropoli Etrusca del Crocifisso del Tufo.  This is the one I chose to visit because it had a large free parking lot and a small museum holding some of the archeological findings from the area. You can wander freely amongst the tombs that date back to the 5th century BCE and even go inside some of them. You can even see the Etruscan family name carved in stone above the tomb entrance. Tickets €3; closed Mondays & Tuesdays.

Orvieto Wine & Wine Tasting

Orvieto is known for its delicious white wines, appropriately named Orvieto Classico. A blend of 40% Grechetto, 20-40% Trebbiano (locally called Procanico) and up to 40% of other white grape blends such as Verdello and Malvasia Bianco. Orvieto Classico is a DOC wine is a pale straw colour that is light and crisp, with a delicate floral taste. There are many enoteca 0r wine bars to try different local wine varieties, including Orvieto "secco" or dry white. Another fun thing to do is tour a local vineyard and have a wine tasting. You can arrange this with the local Tourist Information Centre near the funicular station in Piazza Cahen or visit the tourist office online at orvietoviva.com to plan your tour. For more on discovering wines of Umbria, don't miss my popular blog post 7 Wines To Try In Umbria

Civita di Bagnoregio

A short 20km from Orvieto is the well-preserved Medieval village of Civita di Bagnoregio.  Considered a ghost town, Civita di Bagnoregio is nicknamed "The Dying Town" because of the gradual slide of its' perch atop a clay pillar into the steep valley below. Civita is connected by a 1 km pedestrian toll bridge crossing the canyon. It costs €5 to cross the bridge to Civita, which pays for the shoring up of the village's hillside. Stepping through the city gates is like stepping back through the mists of time; Renaissance, Medieval, Roman and Etruscan architecture blend together, becoming a fun scavenger hunt. The leisurely pace of life in Civita de Bagnoregio reminds one to slow down and enjoy the moment. Busses from Orvieto to Civita de Bagnoregio leave several times a day; check the orvietoviva.com site for the seasonal schedule. Also, check out my blog post on Civita di Bagnoregio for more information on what to see and do.

Orvieto becomes even more enchanting at night with all the day tourists from Rome gone and the historic buildings, palaces and churches delicately lit up. Stroll the Medieval city ramparts or sip a glass of wine and marvel at the Duomo. My favourite place to stay in Orvieto is La Casa di Tufo B&B right in the historic centre. I feel like I am staying with family at this charming B&B!

Orvieto is a place I stop to visit again and again. What is your favourite memory of Orvieto? The food, the wine, the architecture?

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Montalcino, Tuscany-Castles and WINE!

Montalcino is a sleepy hill town that rises above a sea of green vineyards.  An impressive castle sits on one end of the village reminding you of Montalcino's alignment with Sienna during the Middle Ages.

Rolling Hills of Tuscany

There was an unfamiliar sound ringing in my ears as I lay in bed.  Not the rumble of a garbage truck nor the wailing of a siren;  both familiar to my city-dwelling ears.  No this was the sound of a morning in the Italian countryside, and it took me a minute to process the noise.    Church bells were chiming, Vespas buzzing down the lane and roosters were crowing from the nearby properties.  Ah yes, I remembered now; we were in Tuscany.  

On a pilgrimage of sorts for the most famous wine in the region, we ventured out to the Tuscan hill town of Montalcino which is set in the gently rolling hills of straw-coloured grass called the Val d'Orchia or Valley of Gold.  Green and fertile in the Spring, but by September the Val d"Orchia is a blanket of golden yellow grass.  

The Val d' Orchia

Montalcino is also the birthplace of a famous Tuscan wine; Brunello.  This was our first day trip out in Tuscany, and we brought our Garmin GPS with us from home. The GPS is nicknamed Sangeeta, and bringing Her was the best decision we made. Our Australian neighbours ended up lost and frustrated every day trying to navigate Tuscany by map and road signs (which are very confusing in rural Tuscany); they ended up just hanging out at the farmhouse in Cortona every day because they were tired of getting lost all the time. Luke had programmed Sangeeta from home, so all we had to do is press "GO", and we were set to drive through Tuscany's beautiful Val d'Orchia. 

La Fortezza Of Montalcino

The hill town of Montalcino can be seen from far across the valley floor due to its formidable castle on top of the village-The Fortezza.  This was our first hilltown in Tuscany and our first castle in Italy, and we were all very eager to explore it.  There is cheap parking in front of The Fortezza at Piazzale Fortezza, or there is a free parking lot just below the castle, which is where we parked our rental car.  Liam, as an 11-year-old boy loved climbing the old castle ramparts and explaining Medieval battle techniques to us.

Fun Climbing Up To The Ramparts

The Fortezza or La Rocca as its also called was built after the 1260 battle between Siena and Florence, wherein Siena won.  Switching their alliance from Florence to Sienna, Montalcino has been Sienna's biggest ally ever since and remain tight neighbours even to this day.   The castle is pretty much an empty shell, but it was fun to explore.  The views from the ramparts of the La Rocca show the almost lunar-like landscape with its undulating hills dotted with farms and vineyards.  The best part is that the Fortezza is also an "enoteca" - which is a wine bar where you can sample the local wines before you buy, or just purchase top-end wines by the glass along with light nibbles.  This was a win-win situation for Liam and for us, and YES kids are allowed to be in the wine bar!  It cost €4 to explore the Fortezza, and you just pay at the wine bar to enter.  For more information on the Enoteca la Fortezza click  enotecalafortezza.com.

View Of Montalcino From La Fortezza

Montalcino is famous for its dark red wine called Brunello (The brunette in Italian).  I didn't know very much about Italian wine, but the staff at the Enoteca la Fortezza were extremely knowledgeable and educated me on the history of Brunello.   The correct name for the wine is Brunello di Montalcino, and it is made of 100% Sangiovese Grosso grapes-a.k.a Brunello grapes.  The colour of the grapes at the time of harvest is brown, and that's where its name comes from.  The wine was created in the late 1800s by the Biondi Santi family and there are around 250 small and mostly upscale wineries around Montalcino producing Brunello.  Brunello by law must be aged in oak casks for a minimum of 2 years and then in the bottle for at least 4 months, and a Reserva must be aged for an additional year.  Traditionally, Brunello was aged in the cask for 2 years and in the bottle for another 3 years giving it a smooth, full-bodied taste.  With all the time and attention this wine gets during its vinting process, this wine stands up to the test of time and is meant to cellar for 10 years, but can be aged for 30 years and only get better.  But who can wait that long?!  There were some seriously expensive bottles of vintage Brunell for sale at the Enoteca.

Brunello

Now while I loved Brunello,  I found another wine I liked even better; the Rosso del Montalcino.  Rosso del Montalcino is a younger version of Brunello, still using 100% Sangiovese Grosso grapes but the wine is aged for in Oak for only 6 months and aged in the bottle for 1 year.  I found the Rosso del Montalcino was much more easy-drinking than Brunello and comes with a much cheaper price tag at around half the cost.  Rosso del Montalcino has been called "the poor man's Brunello." but I like to call it "Baby Brunello" and it is lighter, fruitier and much less tannic.   We tried many other types of wine that I had never heard of before, such as the Sant' Antimo Rosso which is a blend named after the 12th-century Abbey of Sant'Antimo that is located a few kilometres south of Montalcino.  This where we were heading to next.

Ancient Door

Our heads were feeling a buzz, and our bags were full of wine, so we wandered through the town along the main drag to the principal piazza called Piazza del Popolo.  There were some pretty shops and restaurants in Montalcino, and most of them sold wine.  Winding our way back downhill to the car, we noticed a group of hunters all wearing camouflage clothes and carrying large hunting rifles. September was hunting season in Tuscany, and I was told by the hunters that they were after the infamous cinghiale or wild boar that live in the oak forests in Tuscany and can literally decimate vineyards overnight.  The hunters told me that cinghiale was a seasonal Tuscan specialty and that I should look for it on the restaurant menus at this time of year, I would not be disappointed.  Ok then, I smiled and agreed.  I was not about to tell a man in head to toe camo gear with a gun that "sono vegetariano" or that "I am a vegetarian"!

We zoomed away from Montalcino, heading to the Benedictine Monastery of Sant'Antimo a short drive away for a picnic and some Gregorian chanting.  Hope to see you there!

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7 Wines To Try In Umbria!

Tuscany is famous for its wines; Chianti, Brunello, Super Tuscan.  But Tuscany's quiet next-door neighbour Umbria has some fantastic wines too.   These wines are just becoming popular in North America, even though the Etruscans have been making wine here for millennia. Umbria is much more Mountainous with the Apennine range running through the East of this Region creating a colder climate for grape growing.  This makes a huge difference in the varieties grown and the flavours they produce.  Let's explore some of the local vino!

Umbria DOC/DOCG Wine Treasure Map

Umbria has thirteen DOC regions and 2 DOCG regions.  These acronyms are both wine quality control labels that control the production area, the varieties of grapes used in the wine, the wine colour, alcohol levels and how the wines are matured.  DOC is Denomination of Controlled Origin, and Italy has 334 in 2018, with another 408 "protected" wine areas that may become DOC one day.

Graph From Wine Folly Blog

DOCG is a GUARANTEED Controlled Origin; meaning this wine is Italy's top product.  There are 2 DOCG wines in Umbria: Montefalco Sagrantino and Torgiano Rosso Riserva.  I was amazed that Umbria's famous white wine from Orvietto was NOT on the DOCG list!  The two main white varieties grown in Umbria are Trebbiano and Grechetto.  The main red varieties grown are Sangiovese, Torgiano and Sagrantino.  The last two of these are getting A LOT of attention lately and are both DOCG wines.  Let's start with those.

1. Sagrantino di Montefalco ~

 

This wine is HOT right now all over the world.   Sagrantino wine is made from the mysterious grape variety of the same name.  The DOCG region it belongs to is the area around the pretty little hilltown of Montefalco.  This wine is like Tuscany's Brunello di Montalcino, and there is a whole wine tourism industry built around the wineries of Montefalco. This includes the "Strada del Sagrantino" a driving route that takes you to different wineries and towns that produce Montefalco Sagrantino.  Sagrantino wine is made from 100% Sagrantino grapes that are aged for a minimum of 37 months; 12 of those months must be in oak barrels.  This is an intense, full-bodied wine that is off the hook for tannins and tastes like berry.spice.raisin.smoke.  Sagrantino also ages like a dream.  To find out more about this really unique wine check out THIS post.

2. Torgiano Rosso Reserva and Rubesco~ 

These are actually two separate wines that come from a small town of the same name: Torgiano.  Torgiano is a small hamlet a few kilometres from the delightful hill town of Deruta.   Torgiano makes red wines: Rosso di Torgiano called Rubesco and the famous Rosso di Torgiano Reserva which is a DOCG wine. The Torgiano Rubesco is aged for 1 year where the Rosso Reserva is aged for 3 years with a minimum of 6 months in the bottle.  The primary player in Torgiano is the Lungarotti family winery, and this local family put Torgiano wine on the map.  It's a great blend of half Sangiovese, 15-30% Canaiolo grapes, 10% Trebbiano and the rest is Montepulciano and Ciliegiolo.  You may know the Canaiolo grape from some famous blends like Chianti and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano.  In fact, the Canaiolo grape was the primary grape in Chianti until a blight hit Europe in the 1850s and wiped out much of the Canaiolo vines in Tuscany. Oh, the horror-stupid aphids!

The Rubesco is such a smooth wine and is nicely paired with cheese and bread,  tomato sauces and roast meat or chicken.  The Rosso Reserva is tannin-licious, and it tastes like cherry jam, pepper, cocoa and tobacco (maybe that's from all the tobacco that grows along the vineyards in Torgiano). 😁  This is another Umbrian wine that could stand the test of time and it would be great to drink 10 years down the road.

3. Rosso di Montefalco~

This is another wine featuring the Sagrantino grape.  The Rosso di Montefalco is also a DOC wine blending 60-70% Sangiovese, 10-15% Sagrantino and the rest a blend of Merlot or Cabernet Sauvignon.  It's aged for 18 months, but you can also get a "Rosso di Montefalco Reserva" which is aged for 30 months, 12 of those months in wood barrels.  This wine is WAY more mellow than the Sagrantino di Montefalco, but it is still a big, bold red that ages well for up to 10 years after bottling.  TIP: You may consider trying this Umbrian red before moving on to the Sagrantino which can be a bit too intense for many people.

4. Sagrantino di Montefalco Passito~

The original version of Sagrantino wine that the Umbrian monks made was a sweet wine in the passito style.  "Passito" is a style of wine that is known as "straw wine" or "raisin wine". This would be equivalent to Vin Santo in other regions of Italy.  The process involves drying the grapes for 2 months until they reduce to about 45% of their original volume before pressing.  In the old days, the grapes were withered on the vine or on straw so that the grapes are halfway to being raisins.  This is an ancient technique that was recorded by the Greeks as far back as 800 B.C.E.  Passito is a tasty dessert wine, and the traditional Sagrantino di Montefalco Passito is still prevalent in the Montefalco area and sold by many vintners, enotecas and wine shops today.  

White Wines

5. Orvieto Classico~

The Grand Hilltown Of Orvieto

This is probably Umbria's most famous white wine and it is exported all around the world. Heck, I can even get it at my little grocery store here in rural SW Ontario!  Named after the famous Umbrian hilltown Orvieto, which was the Popes refuge if Rome were ever under attack.  Orvieto Classico is a blend of 40% Grechetto, 20-40% Trebbiano (which is locally called Procanico) and up to 40% other white grape blends such as Verdello and Malvasia Bianco. Orvieto Classico is a DOC  wine that is generally a floral yet crisp, light straw-coloured wine.   Some producers in the region are now producing a very dry Orvieto "secco" which is gaining in popularity.  Try a bunch of different labels to find the one you like most!

6. Orvietto Abboccato~

Delicious and light Abboccato

This is another type of wine from Orvietto that used to be exported in the past but has fallen out of favour because it is quite a sweet wine, although not a dessert wine.  Abboccato in loose terms means "good in the mouth," and I would thoroughly agree.  I had this wine a few times with my lunch, as a restaurant's house white wine and it is light and peachy and well rounded.  It paired well with salty/sweet menu items like prosciutto and melon or Panzanella which is a bread and tomato salad.  It is an excellent hot weather wine to sip on a patio.

7. Bianco di Todi~

The Medieval hill town of Todi is a new player in the Umbrian DOC scene. Todi was designated as DOC region in 2010, although winemaking here goes back to the (pre-Roman) Etruscan times.  Todi is a hill town near Orvieto that grows Grechetto Bianco grapes. This is the same grape that is blended with Trebbiano grapes to make Orvieto Classico wine.  Grechetto vines come from Greece, and like the Sagrantino red grape, it is a late harvest grape.  Like the Sagrantino grape, the Grechetto is a low yielding grape variety with high sugar content and thick skins that resist the mildew that can happen in late harvest grapes.
There are actually  3  related wines here: 1) Bianco di Todi must be 50% Grechetto grapes 2) the Grechetto di Todi must be minimum 85% Grechetto grapes, and 3) Grechetto Superiore it must be 100% Grechetto and aged for a minimum of 5 months.  We tried the Grechetto di Todi with our handmade pasta, and it paired perfectly. Grechetto is light and has a nutty taste and maybe something herbal in the afterglow on the tongue. The Grechetto grape is also used in making Vin Santo a very traditional sweet dessert wine.  Todi is becoming known for its Rosso di Todi, a local red wine that is gathering a lot of attention lately-it's on my list to try out next time we are in Umbria.

I WANT IT ALL!!!!

I am by no means an expert in wine, but I know what I like when I taste it!  I am sure you will have favourites too, and the wine industry in Umbria is growing and changing every year.  If you have any delicious Umbrian wines you would like to add to the list, please let me know in the comments below!  I would love to try them next time I am in Umbria.

Salute!

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