Castiglione Del Lago~Perfect Family Destination In Umbria

Looking for a hidden family-friendly gem in Tuscany?  This peaceful lakeside town on the Tuscan border with Umbria has all the charms of a big resort, without any tourist crowds.

As a lover of "Slow Travel," I like to stay in one location for at least 3 days and explore the surrounding area.  On my visit to Tuscany, my small family rented part of a farmhouse in Cortona and made day trips to many destinations in Tuscany.  For great tips and Italy road-trip planning advice, read my blog post on: Tuscany Road Trip

Castiglione Del Lago Viewed From Cortona

It was a sweltry mid-September day in Tuscany, and it also happened to be my birthday, so nothing was planned on my travel itinerary.  I decided to be spontaneous, go on an adventure and find somewhere not listed in the guidebooks.  Looking at the map book, I decided to head for Lago Trasimeno to beat the heat.  Castiglione del Lago looked interesting and only 20 km from Cortona, featuring an ancient castle jutting out into a lake.  So I set our rental car's GPS, pressed go, and we were there less than half an hour later.

Gate in Medieval Wall

Castiglione del Lago is on the West side of Lago Trasimeno just across the Tuscan border in Umbria; Lake Trasimeno being the dividing line between Tuscany and Umbria.  The village of about 15,000 people today started as a castle on an island.  Over time as the city grew, the flat area between the castle and the shore was reclaimed and filled in with buildings and piazzas.  The town's well-preserved historical centre or centro storico is surrounded by a Medieval wall.  Castiglione del Lago's old town centre is known for its threes, meaning there are three city gates, three parallel streets (which is a Roman-era city layout), three piazzas and three churches.  The main sights in this charming town are the castle and the palace, but there is also a public park with a beach and free parking just to the north of the castle on Via Lungolago.  

The Centro Storico of Castiglione del Lago is within the Medieval walls and completely car-free, making it a delight to stroll.  There are several free and paid parking lots along Via Belvedere, the road that circles the Old Town.  I also found much free street parking just outside the walled city centre.  Most visitors enter Castiglione del Lago through the West Gate, the Porta Senese and wander along the main street, Via Vittorio Emanuele.  Here you will find a gauntlet of stores selling Prodotti Tipici or regional products like local cheeses, kinds of dried pasta, beans, spices, sweets, and olive oil.  

I loaded up on dried pici, a local thick hand-rolled pasta.  For more on local Tuscan products, read my blog post on: 10 Things You Must Eat In Tuscany

photo: Wolfgang Sauber

The main drag heads East towards the Lake, passing by the beautiful Church of Santa Maria Maddelena, with its neo-classic columns out front and Greek cross plan.  It's worth the peek inside to see the painted panels from 1580 and the lofty dome.  This church was once a Roman Temple when the Romans founded the city and was given the name Clusium Novum or New Chiusi.  Chiusi is a lovely Tuscan village and was an important Etruscan city located nearby.  To read about Chiusi, see my blog post: Chiusi Tuscany~Under The Etruscan Sun

Corridor to the castle

Following Via Vittorio Emanuele, you come to a grand Renaissance palace, the Palazzo della Corgna. This palace was built for the Duke della Corgna and serves as the city hall, civic museum and art gallery.  There are some beautiful frescoes in the palace, but the real fun is taking the long covered corridor to the Medieval star-shaped castle called the Rocca de Leone.  The castle was completed for Frederick II of Swabia in 1247 by the monk/architect Brother Elia.  Elia was a Franciscan monk from Cortona, who happened to be Saint Francis of Assisi's best friend and right-hand man.  For more information on Saint Francis and the shaping of Umbria, check out my blog post: St. Francis the Umbrian Rock Star!   

This long walkway leads you to a wonderfully restored stone fortress with sweeping views of Lake Trasimeno, the lake's islands, and Cortona climbing the distant mountainside.  Kids can have fun exploring the ramparts, climbing the tall three-sided bastion tower called "the masio," or take in the shade of the olive trees in the castle's bailey.

View From The Masio

If you have worked up an appetite from exploring the fortress, many excellent local Osterias serve local specialties from Lake Trasimeno.  Look for a dish called Brastico, which is fish fire-roasted over reeds from the shore of Lake Trasimeno.  Or perhaps try Tegamaccio, a soup made with several different types of lake fish, baked in terracotta pots for five hours.  Alternately you can grab some take-out food such as panini (sandwiches), arancini (deep-fried rice balls stuffed with meat and or cheese) or pizza sold by the gram and head to the public beach for a picnic.  The beach at Castiglione Del Lago is sandy; the water is warm, clear and shallow, perfect for kids to cool off on a hot day.  The lake water is tested daily from April through September to make sure it is safe for swimmers.

Family time in Tuscany has never been so much fun!  What is your favourite family activity when visiting Tuscany?  Let me know in the comments below...

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Rome's Outdoor Market~Campo de' Fiori

Campo de' Fiori is one of Rome's most vibrant neighbourhoods in the historic centre.  A bustling market by day and rendezvous spot for an evening drink. This is the pulse-point of Rome... 

Campo de' Fiori Market

Campo de' Fiori, translated from Italian, literally means "Field of Flowers" because, until the middles ages, this spot remained a grassy field.  Located next to the floodplains of the Tiber River, the Christian pilgrims coming into Rome to see the Pope stopped at the open meadow, which served as a thriving marketplace.  The field was paved over in the mid-1400s to make a piazza or square, as Rome expanded to make room for Renaissance palaces.  The piazza is rustic and cobblestoned, yet there are elegant palaces such as Palazzo Farnese located steps away.

Via dei Cappellari

TIP: IT'S ALL ABOUT LOCATION, LOCATION LOCATION!  When choosing a place to stay in a new city, I try to find a neighbourhood that is in the oldest part of town but a few streets over from the main drag.  I like being in a historical center close to restaurants and bars, but far enough away that loud laughter from an outside patio doesn't keep me awake at night.

Campo de' Fiori is a Renaissance-style neighbourhood located between Corso Vittorio Emanuele II and the Tiber River.  With it's narrow, winding, cobblestoned streets, you can imagine being in Medieval Rome.  The roads are little alleyways of residential apartments over charming small independent businesses. This area has been a commercial zone for centuries; many of the shops have bee run by the same family for generations.

I often choose an Airbnb apartment on Via dei Cappellari when I come to Rome. Via dei Cappellari means "street of the hat makers" and is one of my favourite streets in the Campo de' Fiori neighbourhood because of the funky architecture and bohemian vibe of the locals.  Campo dei Fiori has a long history worth seeking out, including its sad share of public executions.  In the center of the piazza, you will notice an imposing statue of a hooded figure looking towards the Vatican.  This is Giordano Bruno, who was burned in 1600 on the very spot the statue sits on today.








Bruno was a philosopher, mathematician, poet and cosmological theorist.  He had views that built on Copernicus's theory that the Sun is the centre of our Solar System.  Bruno's idea was Pluralism; that each star in the sky was a Sun just like ours that it had its own set of planets revolving around them.  He believed that these distant planets may also have life, and the Universe was infinite and could have no centre.  Giordano Bruno was also a Dominican friar, and he should have known better;  the Pope did not like his theories.  Bruno was tried by the Vatican starting in 1593 and then burned at the stake seven years later in 1600.  He became a martyr to science and, at the base of his statue, reads, "A BRUNO-IL SECOLO DU LUI DIVINATO-QUI DOVE IL ROGO ARSE"  which means "To Bruno, From The Age He Predicted, Here Where The Fire Burned."

Trying to purchase food in Italian!

The statue of Bruno was erected in 1889, much to the protest of the Vatican. But the freethinking residents of Campo de Fiori rallied for the figure of Bruno to be erected. This all may sound like a grim memory of the past, but to me, it captures the rebellious and anti-authoritarian, free-spirit of the Campo neighbourhood.  As for the Campo de' Fiori market itself, it's a parade of seasonal bounty! For you foodies out there, the market has it all;  flowers, fruits, vegetables, spices, fresh pasta, oils, and a bunch of tourist trinkets all mingled in this lovely piazza.

It's lots of fun to try and buy your food at the market, speaking in Italian.  Luckily, I had my Roman friend, Sara, to guide me.  Sara lives in the Campo de' Fiori neighbourhood, so she shared her favourite veggie stands, salumeria, cheese shop, and bakery.  TIP: DONT TOUCH THE MERCHANDISE!  This is a big no-no in Italy.  Your vendor will either pick out your produce for you or hold up the produce for you to approve.  If you are feeling brave, and you would like to try before you buy your "go-to" phrase, is "Posso provare?" I can try?

Cheese Shop

This phrase also works well in the cheese shop, sausage shop, bakery or pastry shop.  Here you will want to say, "Posso provare una fetta"  A "fetta" is a slice, so you are asking to try a piece.  Most of the time, I forget my Italian words; if you just ask "Posso?"  and mime an eating motion, the vendors are happy to oblige!  The best cheese shop in the neighbourhood is the Formaggi di Gianna & Paola.  This is a fantastic cheese shop that also sells other milk products and some gourmet grocery items. The shop is located on the corner of Vicolo del Gallo and Via dei Cappellari as it spills out into the market.

Across the street from the cheese is my favourite bakery, hands down; Forno Campo De' Fiori.  Not only do they make excellent bread, cookies, breakfast rolls, but amazing pizza too!  The building that houses the Forno is the historical place where Vanozza de' Cattanei ran an inn while she was the mistress of Pope Alexander VI, who was a Borgia.  This bakery is where the infamous Lucrezia Borgia was born!  Lucrezia was the famous femme fatal who poisoned husbands and lovers while she ruled as the Governor of Spoleto.  Check out my blog post on Spoleto, Umbria.

Another staple of the neighbourhood is the Norcineria Viola butcher shop located at #43 Campo de'Fiori.  The "Purple Norcineria" has been selling their delicious Umbrian style sausages from this location since 1890.  A Norcineria is a butcher who makes pork products in the traditional Norcia, Umbria style, including wild boar sausage, fennel sausage, liver salami with orange peel and the most famous, round Umbrian sausage nicknamed Coglione di Mulo or "donkey's balls."

Mobile Treat

After shopping all those market stalls, cheese vendors, bakeries, pasta shops, pastry shops, butcher shops and wine shops of the Campo de' Fiori, its time for a treat! What would a day in Italy be without gelato!?!  
One of the best gelaterias in the Campo is FLOR.  Located at the far end of the square from the bakery  51 Piazza Campo de' Fiori.  Here you will find authentic artisanal gelato without the addition of artificial colours and flavours that you see in some gelaterias catering to tourists.





  





Of course, the tradition in Campo de' Fiori is once the market winds down, to enjoy an aperitivo or pre-dinner drink and snack overlooking the square.  You may pay more for your glass at a table on the piazza, but you are paying for scenery and the ambiance~ basically, you pay more for the real estate.  But if you some of my money-saving tips I provide in my blog posts (like buying products at the market to prepare in your Airbnb kitchen instead of eating out every meal), you can afford to splurge on a romantic glass of wine on one of Rome's most dynamic piazzas.  
Salute!

Do you have any favourite shops in Campo de' Fiori?  Or perhaps you have a special memory of the Campo; I would love to hear about it in the comments below!


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10 Tips For Beating JETLAG In Rome!

The first visit to Rome can be overwhelming, especially when you have just had a long-haul flight with one or more connections. Here's how to hit the ground running, without jetlag or burnout...

The Eternal City has so much to experience, with ruins, museums, churches, parks and galleries.  Rome is also a starting point for many travellers to explore other Italian regions such as  Tuscany, Umbria and Venice, leaving only a few days to experience the capital city.  Here are some tips & tricks I use to make the most of my time in Rome and to hit the ancient bricks running, so to speak.  Tip 1:  Try and get an overnight flight.  If you can, get an overnight flight from North America with no stop-overs.  If you must transfer planes, try to have the last leg to Rome be the longest flight of 5+ hours.  This way, you can sleep, even if you sleep in small, half-hour cat naps.  This will make give you some regularity and make you think you've had a whole night's sleep.  Take a sleeping pill if you have to, and don't worry too much about being groggy-excellent espresso awaits you in Italy.

Tip 2: Set your clock to the destination time as you board the plane.  This will help your brain get used to the new time before you even arrive, and resist the temptation to convert time backwards to your home time.  Nothing is worse than thinking, "Ugh, it's 4 am right now at home!"  It's a sure-fire way to become tired.

Breezing through Leonardo da Vinci (Fiumicino) airport terminal in Rome is surprisingly simple. What a vast improvement from my trip to Italy! In 2013 the new terminal renovation was not yet complete, so passengers had to deplane on the tarmac and take a bus to the main arrivals terminal.  Now the new international arrival terminal is finished, and the building is gorgeous, bright, and, most importantly: efficient.  I try to get flights that land in the early afternoon, so the Rome rush hour traffic is light.

Enjoying The Train

The Leonardo Express train connects Fiumicino Airport with Termini Station, the central train station in Rome.  The ride is 30 minutes, and trains depart every 15 mins to half-hour (depending on the time of day) from 6am - 11pm. Follow the signs in the airport to Stazione/Railway Station" it's about an 8-minute walk from the main arrivals gate.  Buy your ticket from the machine or a biglietteria or "ticket office" and don't forget to validate it in a yellow machine near the track or you could get fined! Make sure you board the train going to "Roma Termini" there are many other stations in Rome!  The one-way ticket price is €14. There is also a bus option.  Tip 3: If 3 or more people are travelling together, catch a cab.  We took a taxi from the airport rather than the bus or train to downtown Rome.  It is not that much more in cost (with the three of us) and makes a lot of sense because we had more bags this time. Plus, we would have to take a bus or taxi from the train station to our flat anyway; it just seemed like an extra hassle at this point. Tip 4: There is a FLAT FEE for taxis from the airport to Rome center.  The 32km trip in March 2017 costs €48.  It is the law.  Make sure you use an official taxi (white cab with a taxi number on the side) and ALWAYS agree on the price before getting into the cab.  Our taxi driver wanted to charge us more, and I said: "No; it's 48 Euro".  He said it was 2 Euro extra for each bag he handled (???).   I told him I will put our bags in his taxi myself then, and started to walk away.  He came after me and said, "Fine lady, you are the boss."  I gave him €50  in the end anyway because he was a great driver and got us really close to our flat.  Tip 5:  The many pedestrian-only streets in Rome make it impossible for taxi drivers to deliver their fares straight to the doors.  This is especially true in the historical centre of Rome. Our flat in Campo di Fiore was one of those neighbourhoods, so make sure you can schlep your luggage a short distance on your own.

Our Sweet AirBnB Kitchen

Tip 6: finding street addresses in Italy is very confusing and also illogical. We learned our lesson from our last trip to Italy.  This time our Airbnb flat was not hard to find because we had the "Maps.Me" App for our phone (and I also stalked around on Goggle Earth from home and found the address image, so I knew what the front door looked like).  The apartment owner Maurizio was there to meet us and show us around and was just so lovely. The top floor flat is just perfect for us- complete with a kitchen, a balcony in the bedroom, a bathroom with a claw foot tub, and a private loft with a water closet (2 piece bathroom) for the teenager.  Maurizio had bought coffee and a box of brioche for us, so we could make a little snack or keep it for breakfast.

Map.Me App

A coffee and a snack, once you arrive at your hotel or lodgings, is a good idea.  In Italy, dinner does not start until 7pm, and it is difficult to find restaurants that open up for the evening meal before then.  Tip 7: Unpack, freshen-up, have a coffee, BUT DO NOT LIE DOWN! FRESH AIR, SUNSHINE & EXERCISE IS THE ENEMY OF JETLAG.  Trust me on this one, I have made a mistake by "resting on the bed" and fell asleep only to wake up at 2 am Rome time and messed up my sleep schedule for DAYS! Get outside for a walk in your neighbourhood to get acclimatized to where the taxi stand, grocery store, tobacco shops that sell bus tickets are.  Become familiar with local street names and find a local landmark.   

Tip 8: It is easy to get lost in the complicated laneways of Rome, so I use the "Maps.Me" App on my phone.  The App uses satellite GPS to find where you are, without using data. Download the maps at home before you go, place a "pin" where your hotel is and use the offline Map to guide you back to your lodgings after exploring.  Try a lovely meal of traditional Roman pasta: spaghetti carbonara (spaghetti with smoked bacon) or cacio é peppe, which is pasta with cheese and pepper or homemade large hollow pasta called rigatoni in tomato sauce.   Tip 9: Eat a heavy meal to last you through the night.  The last thing you want is your stomach growling you awake at 4 am!   

Tip 10:  This is the time to do your after-dinner evening walk through Rome.  This is also called the passeggiata, where all of Rome's citizens are out strolling and socializing.  One thing I like to do is use the Map.Me App to link all the famous monuments of Rome together. To create a scenic night walk of Rome: Piazza Navona, Pantheon, and Trevi Fountain, you can connect the attractions together on the App. This exercise is what grounds me in Rome and the feeling of returning to my favourite city.  It is like running into old friends!

Usually, by this point, the miles are starting to catch up on you.  I try to stay up as late as possible on my night of arrival.   Sometimes I grab a gelato to go for a mobile dessert hoping the sugar will give me a bit more energy. Also, I usually grab a bottle of Tuscan red wine and some breakfast supplies for the next morning from a convenience store. A nice glass of wine and a super comfy bed at the end of a great day of travel usually put me to sleep before my head hits the pillow.  BONUS TIP: I always carry a bottle of Melatonin, which is an all-natural supplement to restore your natural sleep patterns.  I get the dual-action timed release to help me get to sleep and then STAY asleep until morning.   Following these ten "rules" almost religiously helps me to feel refreshed and ready to explore Rome, and I hope they help you cope with jetlag too. 



Do you have any jetlag secrets?  Let me know about them in the comments below!

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This post first appeared in March 2017 as Home Sweet Rome!

Christmas in San Marino

The most serene republic of San Marino is a romantic fairytale land...that really exists!  From San Marino's lamp-lit castle ramparts, you can watch the sunset over the distant Apennine mountains and then watch the moon rise over the Adriatic Sea.  

Sunset Over The Apennines

San Marino is one of my favourite places in all of "non-Italy".  I say non-Italy because San Marino is a separate republic; a microstate within Italy (kind of like the Vatican) and one of the oldest republics in the world.  TIP: San Marino's main capital city is also called San Marino, which can be confusing if you are programming a GPS.  Named after its Patron Saint, St Marinus, who established a hermitage at the summit of Mount Titano in 301 C.E., San Marino and Mount Titano are UNESCO World Heritage Sites.  The last time I visited San Marino was in 2013, and I was so excited to return to the small capital and see it all lit up in the evening light.


Sunset was at 4:44 pm in San Marino.  With clear skies and a full moon, all the stars seemed to be aligning to be able to get some great pictures from the top of Mount Titano that evening. 

The drive up to the top of San Marino is a thrilling hairpin turn road that offers views of the valley below and the sea off in the distance.  Last time I was here I took a fun ride up the funicular to the top of San Marino, rather than pay for expensive all-day parking. This time I was only visiting for a few hours, and I wanted to zoom to the top of Mt. Titano to catch the sunset magic with my travel partner.   

Via Piana Means "Flat Street"😵  

TIP:  For parking at the top of San Marino, follow the main road ALL the way to the end (it turns into Via JF Kennedy) and there will be a huge pay parking lot just beyond a set of stone arches.  
This is the closest you can park to the iconic castles and the cliffside promenade that connects them.  Over Christmas holidays this parking lot is closed because it is the location of the Christmas Snow Village, but there was lots of street parking available.  This is the bliss of travelling in the off-season!

The three historical towers of San Marino perch impossibly on the very edge of Mount Titano's cliff face, with a stomach-clenching drop of 738 meters to the valley below...

Montale

Racing to catch the setting sun, I took a shortcut from the street and literally ran uphill through a forest of oak, chestnut and laburnum trees to San Marino's third tower-Montale. I was lucky to catch the sun just as it slunk behind the smokey-blue coloured mountains.  Spectacular.  The floodlights suddenly came on, dramatically lighting up the three iconic fortresses of San Marino: Montale, Cesta and the most famous; Guatia.  From the tower of Montale, I strolled along the stone path through the forest, to the middle tower called Cesta.

The Original Fortress Walls

Cesta is the middle peak of San Marino and the highest point.  The tower holds San Marino's museum, displaying over 1500 weapons from the middle ages to modern times.  Cesta was built on top of a Roman Fort, so I consider this spot the end of my trip along the "Via Flaminia" which I followed from Rome, through Umbria and the Apennine mountains to the seaside city of Rimini.  From the tower of Cesta, you can see the great wall that is part of the original city wall that enclosed San Marino, protecting this free republic since the Middle Ages.  The wall had a different purpose now.  A million twinkling white lights strung across the top of the wall like a fairy path lead tourists along the promenade flanked by cafes and souvenir shops to the castle: Guaita.

The Cliffside Promenade

Alone on the very cold and windy ramparts of Guaita, you can really sense the amount of determination this proud little republic needed to stay independent for hundreds of years.  The people of San Marino are called "Sammarinese" and they have a distinctly separate culture of food and wine, their own University, a Sammarinese language (which is a form of the Emilia-Romagnolo dialect) and its own traditional folk music.  For a peek at the traditional Sammarinese folk music check out the video at the very end of this post.

I could hear Christmas carols floating up to the ramparts from far down below, it was the Christmas village pumping out Bony M tunes for all the little skaters and tobogganers that were having a great time in the fresh mountain air.  This would be a good time to go check out the action and see if I could find some mulled wine to warm up.
San Marino's skating rink was the biggest I have seen so far on my Italian Christmas travels through Umbria.  There was also "snow" tubing on the red runway beside the skating rink.  I think every kid in town was there that night living out their winter fantasy, it made me kind of homesick for Canada.   Sadly there was no mulled wine here for my winter fantasy.   Onward.

Parking Lot Turned Into The Skating Rink

Quiet Streets Of San Marino

Questing forth for the elusive mulled wine, I came across another Christmas market selling traditional Sammarinese sweets like Christmas cakes, candies, nuts as wells as cheeses, jams, cured meats and delicious..."Vin Brulé" which is Italian mulled wine!  Vin Brulé is hot red wine, sweetened a bit and spiced with cloves, allspice, cinnamon and orange peel.  Best €2 I spent all day!

Piazza Della Liberta

Warmed up with a spiced wine buzz, there was another quest I was on that night.   When I was in San Marino in 2013 I came across a shop that sold intricate metal masks that looked like lace.  I thought about those masks on and off for four years and always regretted not purchasing one; I didn't even know the name of the store.  Life brought me back to San Marino and to the very same street of the mask shop, and the shop was OPEN!  La Vetrina del Titano is a shop that specializes in Venetian style masks and jewellery.  The kind owner Manuela helped me pick out two beautiful masks, one for myself the other for my dear Italian friend Giulia as a thank you gift.  The Universe gave me a second chance to grab these masks and I promised to never, EVER ignore the "call of the Universe" to buy something special when travelling!

Beautiful Christmas Light Art

Coming out of the shop, my travel partner caught two musicians that were wandering through the streets dressed as Sammarinese shepherds playing the accordion and a rare  Italian folk instrument called a '"zampogna".  The zampogna is a bagpipe type instrument that was brought to this area from Ancient Greece via southern Italy.  This instrument was common in folk music but fell out of favour in the 18th century and is now usually only associated with Christmas carols.  If you want to see a rare zampogna in action, check out the video at the bottom of the blog entry.

Full Moon Over The Adriatic

Time was moving at an alarmingly rapid pace and it was almost time to meet Giulia after work.  I wanted to see if we could catch the full moon rising, so I hunted for an open space like a piazza or a terrace to get a clear vantage point.  The City Hall in Piazza della Libertà is a  picturesque little square on a terrace overlooking the mountains in the distance.  The problem was the mountains faced west where I had captured the sunset earlier, so that meant I had to go to the other side of San Marino that faced East.  Luckily, because I was on a mountain peak, the other side of San Marino was only a 5-minute walk beyond the Piazza della Libertà towards the funicular station.
Rounding the corner to the funicular station, I stopped dead in my tracks.  The scene I looked out at from the mountaintop terrace was as delicious and intoxicating as the Vin Brulè! The full moon was shining down upon the Adriatic; her silver reflection on the sea so bright, that it looked like the water was being lit from beneath. It didn't even register to my eyes as being "real" at first; like I was looking at a painting.  Staring out at the moonlit scene was one of the most romantic moments of my trip.

That vista was also the most satisfying end to my night in "the most serene republic" of San Marino.

Sammarinese Traditional Music Featuring the "zampogna":

Original post appeared January 2018

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