Saturnia Hot Springs, Tuscany

Tuscany is blessed with numerous thermal baths called "terme" in Italian.  Hot water springs from deep within the Earth, holding healing properties that make this area of Italy a spa lover's paradise!


The Maremma region in Southern Tuscany is dotted with delightful thermal waters, resulting in both natural outdoor pools and spa resorts.  Southern Tuscany's sulfuric Terme waters also boast some of the most healing properties in all of Italy.  One of the best places to experience Terme in Tuscany is the quiet village of Saturnia, in the deep south of Grosetto Province near the border of Lazio.  

The settlement at Saturnia was called Aurinia by the Etruscans. A settlement here has existed since pre-Etruscan times and is thought to be one of the oldest cities in Italy, most likely because of the abundance of the thermal springs.  There are Pre-Etruscan tombs in the area, like the Necropoli del Puntone (1 KM North of Saturnia on the road to Poggio Murello) that establish Saturnia as a Pelasgi settlement which was the region's indigenous people.

Etruscan and Roman structures around the village of Saturnia include the Etruscan walls dating back to the 3rd and 4th century BCE, which incorporate the "Porta Romana" Roman-era city gate.  The Via Clodia, a Roman road that leads to the Porta Romana, was built on an existing Etruscan Route linking Pitigliano, Sovana and Sorano incorporating some of the mysterious Vie Cave.  Check out my blog posts on these nearby attractions.  There are also remains of the ancient Roman baths at the far end of town on Via Italia.  There is also a picturesque castle in Saturnia called the Rocca di Saturna or Castello Ciacci by locals.  This was an Aldobrandesca Fortress built in the 1100s along the fortifying city walls by the original rulers, the famous Aldobrandeschi family of Sovana.  While in Saturnia, check out the small but interesting archeological museum. 

The name Saturnia came from the Romans, who settled this area in 183 BCE.  Legend has it that the Roman God Saturnus (Saturn) was tired of all the warring of the humans in the area.  In a rage, Saturnus threw a thunderbolt from the heavens down to Earth, and where the thunderbolt stuck, a magical spring of warm water was created to pacify humankind.  This is the main attraction of Saturnia today.


There are two terme areas in Saturnia, a posh hotel spa and a natural thermal waterfall;  both of these originate from the same source.  The Terme di Saturnia Natural Spa and Golf Resort is a 124 room Five-Star hotel resort for those who want to pamper themselves.  You can book a full-day (€ 29) or half-day package(€ 25) at the resort without having to stay overnight in the hotel, which is an excellent alternative to the busy free hot springs.  Check out the resort website termedisaturnia.it and go to the "Reservations & Gift Vouchers" at the top right of the homepage to book a day package.

The more popular destination attracting locals and tourists alike is Gorello Falls.  An ancient stone mill sits atop Gorello Falls, or as the locals call it "Cascatelle del Mulino" or Miller's Falls.  This is where one can sit outside in a cascade of warm water...  FOR FREE!!! 


Gorello falls can be a hectic place, even in the offseason.  Follow the Strada Provinciale SP10 south from Saturnia towards Montemerano for about 2km, and you will see signs for the falls.  There are two parking lots for the springs, both are free.  The first and closest is a large dirt parking lot at the end of Via della Follonata that can be quite rough in spots where there have been seasonal washouts.  The overflow parking lot is also on the SP10, just past the falls and is a bit of a farther walk to the springs. 

I visited Gorello Falls on a Sunday afternoon in late September, and the place was absolutely packed! Robust Russians were padding around in bathrobes, sexy Italian couples on their Vespas, German families camping out in Westfalias, and even locals with horses tied up in the shade of the treed parking lots!  It was a smorgasbord of people watching, and everyone was having a wonderful time.




You can smell the waters before you see them, the slightly sulfuric scent emanates from the healing waters that are a perfect temperature between 37-38 degrees Celcius.  Cobalt blue calcium-rich water cascade down layered basins of smooth, white limestone at a rate of 800 litres per second.  Each of the little pools can hold about 3-5 adults quite comfortably.  Sitting in one of these stacked pools gives you the feeling that you are a giant pigeon in a warm Italian fountain!  The healing properties of the water are said to help cure vascular diseases and ease muscle tension and pain.  The mineral-rich black mud found at the bottom of the falls is known to alleviate skin disorders such as eczema and psoriasis, so it's common to see people smearing the dark clay all over their faces and bodies.  Remember, there are no storage facilities here at Gorello Falls, so lock all your valuables in the trunk of your car and only bring your towel to the falls.

Gorello Falls In The Evening

Further upstream behind the old mill, the hot water runs in a swift-moving channel.  Older kids can ride the stream like a waterslide but keep your eye on smaller children that can easily be swept up in the swift-moving current.  Even further upstream, there are spots where ropes are tied across the narrow river channel just below the water surface that are not visible to the eye;  be cautious to not get hung up on them!  

The best times to visit Cascate del Mulino in the busy tourist season from April through October are early in the morning before 10am or in the evening after 5pm.   There is a cafe/bar located close to the falls that serve hot and cold light snacks, sandwiches, gelato and desserts, beer and cold beverages, as well as providing shower and washroom facilities.  The Bar Cascate di Saturnia opens daily at 8 am and closes late.  

Saturnia's hot springs have something for everyone; from elegant spas to free family fun, to romantic midnight dips under the moon and a blanket of stars❣

Have you visited Saturnia, Tuscany?  Which Terme did you prefer; the Spa or the free natural springs?  Let me know in the comments below.

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This post first appeared in September 2013 as Saturnia Tuscany; Saturn's Bathtub 

Sorano~Southern Tuscany's Best Kept Secret

Part of the group of three villages that make up the "Città del Tuffo," Sorano is a dramatic, fairy-tale Italian town that is Southern Tuscany's best-kept secret...until now.

Entrance To The Hotel Castle

Sorano is my favourite place in all of Italy.  Its red-tiled roofs are reminiscent of Siena in northern Tuscany but without the polish and refinement. Sorano doesn't have the history of Rome,  the art of Florence, or the serenity of Assisi.  Sorano isn't nearly as pretty as the Amalfi Coast or the Cinque Terre, but there is something so bewitching and mysterious about this rustic little Tuscan village. The Città del Tuffo include the towns of Sorano, Sovana and Pitigliano.








The town was considered a "dead" community by the government in 1923. Many of the homes and buildings have slid into the Lente River gorge since 1801.  But the Soranese have persisted, and Sorano is making a vibrant comeback in the past decade.  I haven't written about this enchanting village or told anyone about Sorano so that I could keep it my secret Tuscan getaway. But now the secret is out-BIG TIME.  The Netflix Original Series Luna Nera (Black Moon)  has filmed many scenes in Sorano.  The Netflix show is based on a book series about a group of 16th-century witches by Italian writer Tiziana Triana.  Most of the show is filmed in Rome at the Cinecitta studios and on various locations in Lazio and Southern Tuscany.  In the series, Sorano is transformed into the fictitious medieval village of Serra. Look out;  season 2 of Luna Nera is filming now!





We ended up in Sorano because my eleven-year-old son practically  begged to stay in a "real castle."  So then I did my research on castle stays in Tuscany and found Hotel della Fortezza in Sorano.  Castle hotels in Italy are quite costly, but the Hotel della Fortessa is an affordable luxury in an authentic piece of Italian medieval history!  Everything about this hotel is outstanding; the service, the rooms each with spectacular views, and the complimentary continental breakfast, which includes home-baked cakes and confectionaries.  The Fortezza became our home base for exploring the surrounding area like Pitigliano, Sovana, Saturnia and hiking the Vie Cave. Also housed in the Fortress is the Museum of the Middle Ages.  
  

View Of The Fortress From Masso Leopoldino

The Hotel della Fortezza sits upon the hill above the village of Sorano and dominates the skyline.  Most people coming into Sorano are driving and approach from the SP73 road that has a hairpin turn offering an outstanding view of the entire town, so be sure to pull over to snap a photo!  There is a  free city parking lot on Via San Marco next to the hotel parking, just follow the signs to Hotel della Fortezza.   The views of Sorano below from the hotel rooms are phenomenal!  The castle was initially built by the Aldobrandeschi family in the 13th century as a military stronghold.  Niccolò Orsini renovated it in 1552 around the same time as he rebuilt the fortress in Pitigliano to defend against the wars with Siena and Orvieto.

Passageway From The Castle To The Village

Sorano spread below the castle begs to be explored! You can take a pathway from the fortress down to the village via the arched walkway.  This town has been inhabited since the Villanovan people who predate the Etruscan culture.  This is evident in the number of caves carved into the tufa rock along the Lente River at the base of Sorano.  The Latin name for Sorano was Soranus. This is referring to the village as a "the city of the dead," because all of the columbaria or caves the Romans found. First, these caves were used as a resting place for the ashes of the dead. Later, as the inhabitants moved up the cliffs, and these caves became dwellings, then shelter for livestock.  The caves are still used today as storage for farm equipment.

Another commanding feature of Sorano is the Masso Leopoldino.  This elevated area was carved from natural tuff stone to form a fortified panoramic terrace.  Built in the 17th century, Masso Leopoldino was named after Duke Leopold of Lorraine.  The fort was constructed over an existing set of medieval structures to improve the fortified city walls of Sorano.  The views from the balcony of Sorano; the Orsini fortress on one side and the Lente river gorge on the other is phenomenal.   When enjoying the views from Masso Leopoldino mind your young travellers, there are no extra special guard rails to keep them from tumbling over the edge! 





Clinging to the side of Masso Leopoldino is the remnant of Sorano's Jewish Ghetto. Like Pitigliano, Sorano had a substantial Ebraic community after the Jewish people left the Papal lands of Lazio in the late 1500s.  Wandering through this maze of pathways leads you to the most magnificent Medieval gate, the Porta dei Merli.  Also known as the Porta del Sotto, this massive gate is made of ashlar stone construction from the Lente riverbed and is crowned with an impressive coat of arms.  

This path leads down to the Lente River and on into the forest where the trail becomes a mysterious Etruscan pathway called a 'Via Cava.'  Every year at dawn on the Spring Equinox, the residents of Sorano hold a candlelight procession from the church above, along this trail to the Lente riverbed. 








Another ancient tradition in Sorano involves food.  The delicious Sorano ham is known throughout Italy and is celebrated in the first week of August every year during the "Festa of Ham."  Also, sample the local sheep milk ricotta cheese and the caciotta with a glass of the delicious local white wine!
Local artisan shops are lined down the main street of the historical centre.  Olive oil, leather items and olive wood products from Sorano are highly prized.  There is a fantastic woodcarving shop called  "La Bottega Del Lengo"  just past the historic centre city gate, called the Porta di Sopra.  Follow the street from Sorano's panoramic Piazza Pietro Del Lengo through the city gate, and the shop is just beyond on Via Giovanni Selvi #4.  La Bottega Del Lengo makes fantastic olive wood cutting boards, utensils & household items, even jewelry!








Honestly, the best part of Sorano is just wandering around the village and taking in the views of the red-tiled roofs, ancient stonework and soaking in the rustic atmosphere.  Get lost amongst the labyrinth of alleyways, staircases and underpasses that give Sorano that medieval atmosphere.  



Don't forget to visit all the friendly cats! 😻     

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