First Timers Survival Guide To Venice

Venice is intense.  In the summer Venice can be hot, overcrowded and expensive.  In the winter, it can be bone-chillingly cold and flooded.  But Venice is also achingly beautiful, mysterious and dramatic; one of the most iconic cities of Italy.  Here are some tips I learned from my recent visit to Venice to hopefully make your first trip to Venice smooth & enjoyable.  

Venice has been a premier tourist destination because of its celebrated art and architecture. In recent years the onset of mass tourism, mainly due to cruise ships means that an estimated 60,000 people a day visit the city.  That is more than the population of Venice...in ONE day!  In 2017 an estimated 22-30 million people visited Venice.  With the average visit to Venice being about 6 hours that is a vast daily surge of people flooding in and out of the city; much like the tides.  In 2017 UNESCO was considering putting Venice on its endangered city list because of the irreversible environmental damage and overcrowding the number of tourists is creating for the city.  Venice is currently putting in a strategy to help create more sustainable tourism. As you can imagine, this mass tourism has caused inflated prices in Venice.  Yet there are still deals to be found, but you have to do your research well ahead of time.  The least crowded time to visit Venice is November through March with the exception of Carnival. Christmas is a beautiful time to visit with all the lights, and the end of March is milder weather yet relatively crowd-free.

Arrival in Venice  

The small Marco Polo Airport is on the mainland about 40 minutes-2 hours by boat to downtown Venice, depending on your stop.  It's fun to take the Alilaguna boats for €15 one way (or save money by buying round-trip €27) into downtown Venice.  In busy months the boats fill up quickly, so get to the dock early!  Select the boat stop in Venice to get you relatively close to your accommodations, which is important and I'll tell you why in a second.  Check the schedule at  www.alilaguna.it/en 

Alilaguna Boat Stop

The cheapest way from the airport into Venice is by the shuttle bus that drops you off at Piazzale Roma.  Now you will have to buy a water bus ticket or walk to your hotel or accommodations.  Both options are not easy when you have your luggage with you.  The water buses are PACKED with people and walking is slow and tedious over the cobbled streets and the bridges (which all have steps going UP AND DOWN).  There are 400 bridges in Venice, and walking anywhere you will be crossing at least 50 of them.  Now imagine that with your luggage!  Pack light, my friends.

If you arrive by car, note there is a rental car drop off for most major car rental companies at the large Piazzale Roma parking lot BUT you are charged an extra fee for dropping off on the island instead of the mainland.  The price was $50 Canadian for us.  This was fine for us since there were 3 of us in the car and it saved us time, money and hassle not having to take a train or bus across the causeway from Mestre on the mainland into Venice.  But we still had to schlepp our luggage through the streets to get to our apartment on the other side of Venice.  This is difficult if you have mobility challenges.

Accommodations:  

Mornings Outside Our Airbnb 

This is your most significant expense in Venice.  Budget hotels average about €150/night!  These prices may cause people to stay on the mainland where the big chain hotels are much cheaper.  DON'T do it.  You will miss the essence of Venice.  The most magical times in Venice are at night when the day trippers have gone, and the canals are lit by lamplight. Also, first thing in the mornings when the sun hits the brick buildings in Venice and no one in sight. 
I recommend Airbnb. We rented a 1 bedroom Airbnb flat with a sofa-bed that had a kitchen for less than a hotel room! We made our own meals, which saved us SO MUCH cash.  We also got to shop at the local CoOp grocery store with the Venetians.  Renting an Airbnb flat in residential neighbourhoods like Dorsoduro, Castello or in our neighbourhood of Cannaregio also gives you that feeling of being a temporary local rather than a tourist-which is why we travel, right?

Another option to consider is hostels and even convents.  They took the word youth out of hostel a loooong time ago, and it's not just a bunch of partying kids anymore.  Venice has some beautiful and unique hostels with private rooms to rent.  Check out www.hostelworld.com.  Convents and monasteries in Italy are another option for cheap accommodations.  You will be amazed at the beautiful former palazzos offering rooms to let. Check out the website: Bed and Blessings

Aqua Alta Sidewalks

Getting Around Venice 

You will be walking A LOT!  Bring great walking shoes and if you plan on visiting Venice in the winter plan on packing some rubber boots.  The "Aqua Alta" or high water in Venice strikes each winter and spring flooding the streets.  I have a pair of travel rubber boots called "TOUR" made by Hunter that roll up into next to nothing that packs into my carry on luggage.  Otherwise, there are raised platform sidewalks that the city erects for people to walk on, but this makes navigating the sidewalks so painfully slow!

Using your Phone GPS

Learn the phrase "Dov'è...?"  meaning "where is...?" in Italian.  You are going to get lost A LOT.  You think you can use your phone's GPS to help you?  Wrong!  The buildings are far too dense for your 21st-century witchcraft phone to give you an accurate reading.   Your phone battery will be dead by the time you have successfully navigated the streets.  My advice: walk in the direction you think you need to go in, and then check your phone GPS at every significant piazza where you can pick up a good signal.  If your phone dies, go into a bar (a cafe) and order a coffee and often there is a free phone charging port for us poor lost tourists to use.  Always carry your phone's charger with you in your purse or pocket.

Cruising The Grand Canal By Vaporetto

Ride the Vaporetto!  This is Venice's version of a city bus.   A single ride ticket is €7 for 1 hour in one direction.  Instead, get the €20 one day pass valid for 24 hours, you can cruise up and down the grand canal and out to all the islands in the lagoon for one price.  Don't forget to cruise up and down the Grand Canal at night when the architecture is lit up so beautifully!

Venice  Gondolas At Your Service!

Of course, you need a gondola ride when you are in Venice!  It's straightforward to arrange, and the prices are posted at all the gondola stations in Venice.  See my Gondola Tour Do's and Don't for fast facts or A Gondola Ride In Venice for more history on this traditional Venetian mode of transport.

If you skip the Gondola ride, a quicker and cheaper (yet authentic) version of the gondola is the"traghetto."  This is a long empty gondola with 2 oarsmen that take you across the Grand Canal where there is no bridge.  There used to be 7 Traghetti crossings along the Grand Canal until 2017 when the city of Venice reduced the number to 3.  It costs €2 Euros to ride a traghetto and crossing the Grand canal standing up like the Venetians is a memorable experience.

Eating in Venice  

Eating out in Venice is quite expensive.  We bought most of our food at the local market in our neighbourhood and avoided the crowded markets at the Rialto Bridge.  We also went to a local bakery to pick up our bread and treats.  Now if you want a one-stop shop look for a local CoOp, which is the grocery store chain in Venice.  There are seven of them, and they have everything you need from simple pharmacy items to cheese & wine.

Marzipan Heaven

Neighbourhood Market 

Neighbourhood Bakery

Cichetalda Of Cicchetti

If you want a traditional meal out at lunch or early evening try Cicchetti!  Cicchetti (Chee-KET-tee) are like Venetian tapas or finger foods.  Cicchetti are usually eaten during the lunch hour or the aperitivo hour (from 5-8 pm) in "bacari" which are cicchetti bars.  The secret about eating Cicchetti properly is that they must accompany a drink, like a small glass of wine which is called "un ombra" or a Spritz which is a cocktail made with sparkling white wine and Aperol.  Cicchetti can come in the form of crostini with select toppings, fried foods on toothpicks or simple olives and cheese.  A mixed platter is called a "cichetalda," and Venetians usually consume their cicchetti & ombra standing up at the bar or hanging around outside. It's a very social scene.
There is a group of traditional cicchetti bars on the West side of the Rialto bridge about 2 blocks inland from the Fish Market on Sotoportgo dei Do Mori.  Remember, in Italy, you pay about 20-40% more if you sit at a table rather than stand at the bar to eat or drink.  For more budget tips on eating in Venice check out my blog post.




If you want a dinner out on the town, then you have so many restaurants to choose from.  I always look for a traditional Trattoria full of locals when selecting a place to eat.  This is kind of hard in Venice though, as restaurants can't survive on locals alone anymore.  You may want to do a bit of research here to find an authentic place to dine. Ca D'Oro alla Vedova in the Cannereggio district was our choice for a nice dinner out.   Alla Vedova is a very traditional bacari and restaurant that has been serving up its famous "polpette" (which are Venetian meatballs) since 1855.  They also serve up a great selection of Venetian specific dishes like baccala Montecato; which is the most delicious creamed dried cod.

TIP: THE TAP WATER IN VENICE IS REALLY GOOD! BRING YOUR WATER BOTTLE AND FILL IT AT THE PUBLIC FOUNTAINS AROUND THE CITY.

Sightseeing

Off-Season Line-Up For The Doge's Palace

The city of Venice itself is the main sight, with every turn of a corner being an Instagram worthy photo op.  Venice does have many Palaces, Galleries and Churches that are not to be missed. Unlike Florence or Rome, you can not purchase tickets in advance to the top sights. Here are my top suggestions: The Doges Palace, Saint Mark's Basilica, Academia Gallery, Correr Museum, Frari Church and The Peggy Guggenheim Collection if you like modern art.  There are money-saving museum passes like VENICE MUSEUM PASS that not only saves you $$, but saves you time in lineups, but none that covers the Accademia, Guggenheim or the museums in San Marco Basilica.  See my blog post on budget tricks for Venice on this subject, including how to skip the line to get into the Doge's Palace.  Just remember; the earlier you go to an attraction the fewer crowds there are, and the less time you spend in a line.

Most of the Churches are free to enter; just remember there is a NO bare shoulders and NO bare knees dress code that is enforced-even with children.
TIP: ALWAYS CARRY A LARGE LIGHTWEIGHT SCARF IN YOUR PURSE OR BACKPACK SO YOU CAN COVER YOURSELF UP TO ENTER A CHURCH.

There are so many famous sights in Venice that are free; that even on a  super tight budget you can enjoy ample sightseeing even if you don't step foot into one museum.  Here are some favourites: Rialto Bridge, The Bridge of Sighs, Piazza San Marco, Basilica of San Marco, The Fish Market and The Produce Market.  Some really cool neighbourhoods to explore are The Jewish Ghetto near the Ferrovia Train Station and the Sant' Elena neighbourhood at the very end of the Castello District.
The Venetian lagoon also offers many day trips from the city: Murano, Burano, Torcello, Lido Beach, San Michele cemetery, San Giorgio and Giudecca-all serviced by your Vaporetto pass, so make sure you grab a 24 or even 48-hour ticket. Don't forget to put that Vaporetto pass to good use by taking a cruise up & down the Grand Canal.

Souvenirs

There are those who love to shop and those who despise it.  I think it is nice to bring back a few mementos from your journey, either for yourself or as gifts for loved ones back home; but I am really picky about what I take home.  Most of the tourist shops and street vendor stalls in Venice sell items that are made in China (sometimes not even at low prices).  I really don't like supporting this, I want to pay an artist for their hard work and talent.  I research what the traditional crafts are in the region I will be visiting, and where to purchase them from a reputable shop.   Usually, I  buy only one quality item to bring home, rather than 20 cheap tourist trinkets.

• Venice is known for some particular artistic traditions such as glass, lace and masks.  You can get some nice small Venetian glass beads or wine stoppers directly from the artist in small shops like the one pictured here on the island of Burano.  
• Another craft that is disappearing, is handmade lace.  Venetian lace is beautiful, but Burano lace is exquisite.  Burano lace is costly, and there are many tourist rip-off shops on Burano selling cheap lace knockoffs.  See my Venice side trip to Burano post for recommendations on where to buy authentic handmade lace. 



Metal Masks With Bling

• Masks are synonymous with Venice.  There are a lot of cheap plastic masks for sale along the tourist corridors, but there are some serious shops selling traditional style paper-mȃché masks for Venice Carnevale. Try Ca' Del Sol or Tragicomica as two examples.  Paper-mȃché masks are rather difficult to transport home, but we found some beautiful masks made of leather or metal that were very beautiful and less delicate.

• Venetian Coffee is also a nice treat to bring home as gifts.  We brought 2 pounds of Cafe Del Doge coffee home with us from Venice. Every day we were transported back to Venice when we took a sip of our morning joe.

I hope these tips have been helpful for planning your first trip to the magical city of Venice.  If you have any tips for folks visiting Venice for the first time, please leave them in the comments below.

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