Algonquin Park Centennial Ridges Hike

I woke up in the middle of the night to wolf howls...distant and distinct.  The shivers down my spine told me these were not dogs or even coyote howls; because we hear those at our farm almost nightly.  This was the definite mournful cry of a lone wolf in the nearby mountains.  Then about a minute later, from the opposite direction came another wolf's soul felt reply and the hair on the back of my neck stood up...

This 2:30am exchange between wolves was exhilarating.  I was wide awake for another hour waiting to hear more cries; I was even going to try to record the howls on my phone, but there was only silence after that.  I had only heard a wolf one other time; in the Caribou region of British Columbia while staying at an abandoned fishing resort.  I had imagined that the wolves of Algonquin would be way up in the remote backcountry of the park, I had no idea that wolves would be in such a populated area of the Provincial Park.

Wood Fired Bagels

After our camp breakfast of toasted bagels on a stick (don`t ask) we decided to head out for a day hike.  I filled up our water bottles and tossed them into our backpack with a dog bowl and some granola bars.  After the lovely sunset views we had from the bluff of the Lookout Loop Trail the previous evening, we were hungry for more scenic cliffs overlooking the park. We going to attempt to hike the Centennial Ridges Trail; a 10.4 km loop that wanders along two long ridges on the south side of Highway 60.

There are two access points to the trail; one accessible from Highway 60, the other trailhead is near the Coon Lake Campground. The trailhead parking lot was not full, which was an encouraging sign that the hike was not going to be overcrowded.  This was the last chance for us to use a butthut for the next 10km and to pick up an interpretive trail guide.  These trail guides are excellent because there are numbered stations along the trek for you to stop at and read information about the history and natural features along the trek.

We set off on our way through the maple forest.  I looked at the map of the Centennial Ridges Loop, but I didn't notice the elevation gains of the hike (which probably was a good thing).  There are five separate ascents and descents on the trek, and the total vertical distance you climb is 360 meters or 1,200 feet!  That's a pretty intimidating hike when you are dragging along a teenager and two senior dachshunds.

The Centennial Ridge Hike was opened in 1993 to commemorate Algonquin Parks one hundred year anniversary and honours eleven people who have helped shaped the history of Algonquin Park.  The trail climbs immediately to Founder's Ridge and you are rewarded with a stunning vista overlooking Whitefish Lake in the background and a sea of green pine trees.  Wandering along the brow of the ridge for some time, you suddenly plunge back down to the forest valley and pass a small trout lake.  You walk past huge boulders dropped here by glaciers during the last ice age.  These giant rocks are almost irresistible to climb for our teen; who apparently is half mountain goat.  Save your energy, kid-the next ridge is the toughest.

Snake Skin

The trail then heads back up again to the highest peak of the hike; MacDougall Mountain.  This peak on the East facing bluff is 560 meters or 1850 feet and has an entirely different view from the previous cliffs.  The expansive carpet of hundreds of different colours of green sprawl out before you.   After a rest and some water, the path drops down again into a grove of Red Spruce.  There are only pockets of Red Spruce in Ontario, and they grow in the Algonquin Highlands.  Our teen Liam liked to sometimes run ahead and explore on his own and return with interesting treasures.  He came across a perfectly preserved snake skin left sitting in a sunny patch by its previous owner.

Eastern Facing Bluffs

Of course, the trail again climbed up another hill to the same ridge, and the hike became a little monotonous at this point.



We did see what we thought were some peregrine falcons flying around this ridge perhaps having nests somewhere in the trees or cliffs here.  Peregrine falcons were re-introduced to Algonquin Park in 1984 as part of a Nationwide conservation effort.  These falcons were wiped out in Eastern Canada due to pesticides like DDT in the prey that the Falcons were eating.
There was also some interesting and beautiful mosses, lichens, mushrooms and ground covering flowers on the cliffs of the east bluffs.
Again, the publication of the Centennial Ridges Trail was informative to read during our water and rest breaks because we learned so much about the history of the park and the people who contributed so much of their lives to conserve this place; including politicians, rangers, artists, educators and wildlife conservationists.


By the time we dropped off the eastern ridges to little Cloud Lake we were bloody sick of this hike!  Really.  Our dachshunds were tired and kept plopping down or wanting to be carried, the kid was grumbling, and we had sweat most of our mosquito repellant off. The incentive of "let's get ice cream when we are done this hike" became an obsession in my head.  I was daydreaming about what flavours of ice cream may be available instead of being at one with nature. Once we passed the trail marker to the Coon Lake Campground turnoff, we knew there was only one last bluff left to tackle.  The final ridge of the Centennial Ridges is the most spectacular of the whole trail.  High above Whitefish Lake, the flat cliff top with its sun-warmed rocks was the perfect place to rest and gather up our strength to walk the last few kilometres to the parking lot.

Nap Time At Bryant's Bluff

TIP:  The most beautiful part of the trek through the forest and cliff top views are the LAST 3 TRAIL MARKERS (10-12).  If you are limited in time or don't want to walk the whole loop-DO THE CENTENNIAL RIDGE TRAIL BACKWARDS!  You (and your calves) will thank me!  Next time we hike the Centennial Ridges Trail we will walk the loop in the opposite direction.  Starting at the parking lot we will take a left at the fork instead of a right, passing by Rutter Lake and straight to Bryant's Bluff.

Relaxing After The Long Hike

Once back at our car, we drove straight to Lake Of Two Rivers.  Lake Of Two Rivers is the hub of Algonquin Park.  There is a store, cafe & grill, bike rental, campground, public beach and the historic Killarney Lodge which has been hosting guests in Algonquin Park since the 1930's. The Lake Of Two Rivers cafe has an ice cream parlour that serves local Kawartha Dairy ice cream.  Let me just tell you this; after 10.4 km of up & down multiple ridges all day, that double scoop of Kawartha Moose Tracks ice cream has NEVER tasted so good!  We sat outside in the evening sun enjoying our ice cream and watched as swarms of people started to arrive at Two Rivers Store.  It took me a minute to figure out what was going on, but there is take out pizza available at the cafe! What?!?  PIZZA when camping!  So much for roughing it with hot dogs and canned beans for dinner.  Some of the other campers told me the pizza was really good here and even though we were tempted,  we went back to our Kearney Lake campground for a spaghetti dinner.  It just seemed like sacrilege to have take-out when camping!

The evening slipped into night time, and we barely moved from our chairs surrounding our crackling campfire.  The usual camping delicacies were served & consumed around the fire that evening, marshmallows, JiffyPop, smores.  Somehow, this junk food always tastes better after such a physically exerting day.



Our nightly planning session for the next day's adventure was driven by one question:  How can we see Algonquin Park without having to walk anymore? Very late that night I literally crawled into the tent and then into my sleeping bag, and collapsed onto the now half-deflated Thermarest pads.  I laid still and tried to ignore my throbbing legs and hip joints, wondering if I had packed any pain relief medicine. Then the answer came to me.  Why, of course!  We can rent a canoe and explore Algonquin by water!  Somewhere far off in the distance, a lone wolf howled to acknowledge my good idea, and I smiled to myself as I drifted off into deep, restful sleep.


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Algonquin Provincial Park; A Camping Paradise

Our camp was set up under a thick canopy of maple trees and white pine. There was only the sound of birdsong, which continued until dusk when the loons took over with their lonely song on the nearby lake. Soon our little campsite became lit only by the crackling fire in the firepit.  It's not until I trekked out the washhouse where the trees are cleared that I looked up and caught my breath; the sky was SO full of gleaming stars...

Spending the night in Muskoka, I travelled through Baysville and all the way along the shores of Lake Of Bays on Highway 9.  Highway 9 wound its way along the shores of the sparkling lake, passing by simple old cottages built next to deluxe cabins that were more like gated mansions.  Highway 9 intersected with Highway 60 which is the only highway that runs through Algonquin Provincial Park.  Algonquin Park is HUGE- 7,553 square kilometres (2995 square miles), and Highway 60 only crosses the southern tip of Algonquin Provincial Park.  Most access to Algonquin Park is through canoeing and portaging.


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Jazzercise Moose

Arrival at Algonquin Provincial Park was through the West Gate where there is an information centre. This was a great place to pick up some hiking maps and general park information.  TIP:  IT IS FREE TO DRIVE THROUGH ALGONQUIN PARK, BUT IF YOU WANT TO STOP TO USE ANY OF THE FACILITIES YOU ARE REQUIRED TO PURCHASE A PARK PASS.  THIS INCLUDES STOPPING TO USE THE TOILETS.  All the information on park fees and reserving camping spots are on the Algonquin Park Website.  Reservations are always recommended, especially this year in 2018 since Algonquin Park is celebrating its 125th birthday, making Algonquin the oldest Provincial Park in Canada!  Another exciting feature at the West Park Gate was the whiteboard listing all the wild animal sightings in the last few days.  It goes something like this: May 8th at 2:30 pm black bear and cub sighted on Booth Rock Trail.  This made it real folks! I was dying to spot a moose!  I kept thinking that I saw one, but the truth is my eyesight is terrible, and my "moose" always turned out to be a burnt tree stump or some such thing.


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May The Forrest Be With You

You can choose and book your campsite through the Algonquin Park website.  TIP: The park website allows you to see pictures of the actual campsites before you book online!  This is great if you are sleeping in a tent and need a flat spot to set it up.  I chose to camp at Kearny Lake, which was about 37 km beyond Algonquin's West gate, along highway 60.  Driving past numerous lakes along the road, passing grand lodges, a store, restaurants, canoe & bike rental shops and little cottages for rent.  This seemed more like a giant private resort than a Provincial Park!  Definitely more developed than any provincial park back home in British Columbia. Campsites in Algonquin Park are about $45 a night.  Which is steep compared to what we were used to in BC.  Yet, when I compare the facilities and free programs of Algonquin Park to those we have been to in BC, I think there is still good value for the money.


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I found our campsite number and set up our little home for the next few days.  Here's a small dog owner's TIP: AN OLD PLAYPEN IS A GREAT small DOG PEN FOR CAMPING.  My son's old playpen is a clever use for our two dachshunds; it's lightweight and folds down next to nothing, making it super portable.  The pen is easy to clean and the dogs can still see out at all the action going on around them.  After camp set up, I went to the Kearney Lake ranger station to check-in and pick up some firewood.  Here's the deal:  it is prohibited to bring wood into Algonquin Park to prevent the infestation of invasive insects.  YOU MUST PURCHASE YOUR FIREWOOD INSIDE THE PROVINCIAL PARK.   I totally support this, BUT the park was charging people $6 for a bundle of soaking wet firewood (it was like they stored all the firewood underwater for a year!)  Folks were really upset because gathering around the campfire at night is what you DO when you camp, and no one could get their fires started with the soaking wet wood!


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Only In Canada

Since I couldn't get a fire going after dinner, I decided to go check out the state of the arts Algonquin Visitor Centre.  The visitor centre was built in 1993 to commemorate Algonquin Park's 100th anniversary.  There is a restaurant,  book/gift shop with a really nice selection of items (including detailed backcountry trail guides), a museum, an art gallery, a theatre with a short movie on Algonquin Provincial Park and a huge observation deck.  Because the Visitor Centre is built on a high ridge, the viewing deck is just fantastic.  There is also free Wi-Fi at the Visitor Centre (now you know where this blog is coming from).  The museum display is worth a visit and had a lot of interesting facts about local wildlife, the First People who lived in this area and the settlers who later came to Algonquin.  At least I got a chance to get up close to some moose here in the museum; I figured this could be the only moose sighting I would see in Algonquin.


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Don't forget to pick up the Algonquin newspaper with ALL the park information and maps you need for a visit to the park.  Another handout to pick up is the newsletter "This Week In Algonquin" (which is also available online at the park website).  This leaflet tells you about all the free programs available at the park during the current week like; guided walks, kids programs, movie nights, etc.
On the way back to the Kearney Lake campground we decided to make a stop at the Lookout Trail to watch the sunset.  The lookout trail is a 2km loop that climbs through the maples forests and opens up to a large rock ridge that faces westward.  It's a stunning place to catch an Algonquin sunset or to view the Autumn foliage from the high cliffs.  The trail up to the ridge itself is not long, but it is very steep. It is worth the effort to hike up to the bluff; the views are spectacular.

With the sun sinking low into the forest we head back to our campsite before it got too dark to navigate the trails safely without a flashlight.

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On the way back to Kearney lake there was a big line of cars pulled over onto the shoulder of Highway 60. I had no idea what was happening until I saw a woman pointing to a swampy area at the side of the road.  MOOSE!  It was a cow and her two calfs-twins moose babies. I thought I had died and gone to heaven!
Apparently, the little family visit this swampy area every evening when the air cools down.  It was beautiful to watch the shy moose calves play in the long grass and disappear into the trees, only to reappear a few meters away.  That Moose Momma was so calm, even with the number of spectators only 300ft away from her.  I could spend hours watching the moose trio, but the mosquitos were starting to come out in droves so I headed back to the campsite.


What a fantastic end to the day!  I thought it couldn't get any better, but when I got back to the camp someone had left a small bundle of dry firewood next to our fire pit!  Amazing.  After the campfire got going, we sat up late into the night planning out our adventures for the next day.  Visiting the washhouse that night and seeing the sky so full of stars, made me feel so grateful for where I live on this Earth.  I know there are SO many places on this globe I have yet to discover, but somehow exploring in my own backyard is always the most gratifying for me.  It gives me a sense of pride in the natural abundance we have in Canada, and it also gives ME a better understanding of what it means to be a Canadian.


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Muskoka Magic; Ontario's Cottage Country

"Muskoka," "Algonquin," and "Kawartha" are beautiful regions in central Ontario that conjure up images of Adirondack chairs lined up on a lakeside dock with a canoe tied to it. We envision night skies full of bright stars and the smell of campfire smoke.  Of misty mornings and loon calls.  This is Ontario's Cottage Country...

Rolling Hills of Bracebridge

Being a transplant from Vancouver to South West Ontario, I heard so much about Muskoka.  This is the famous Ontario "Cottage Country" where rich folks from Toronto and Ottawa have their summer "cottages,"; similar to Whistler in the West Coast where rich Vancouverites had their mountain "cabins."   The cottages and cabins I speak of are, in many cases, luxury houses (I wish there were a way of indicating quotation marks used in a sarcastic tone).
My imagination was filled with images of fancy cottages lining pristine, glittering lakes strewn with private docks and No Trespassing & Private Property signs posted on every fence and driveway.  So what's the real deal with Muskoka?

We finally got to visit this region on our way to Ontario's famous Algonquin Park.  Luckily we have some family in Muskoka that invited us to stop by for a visit.  We drove from our farm near Kitchener, Ontario, along Highway 401 towards Toronto and then headed North towards Barrie on Highway 400.  Once past Barrie, you take Highway 11, and the landscape noticeably changes. The cottage vibes begin, and you find yourself looking out over endless rolling hills covered in lush maple forests and dotted with thousands of shining lakes.

Our first stop in Muskoka was Bracebridge, where we stayed with our family.  Downtown Bracebridge is built on the Muskoka River and has a beautiful waterfall in the dead centre of town.  There is an excellent park at Bracebridge Falls with a playground and lots of shady walking trails.  Many fantastic restaurants specialize in "Farm to Table" fresh cuisine (check out SAVOUR MUSKOKA) and cute little cottage lifestyle shops like Simply Cottage selling had made furniture, antiques and clever knick-knacks.  Bracebridge is also the home of the award-winning craft beer Muskoka Brewery which you should definitely check out.  The Muskoka River flows into Muskoka Lake, where you will find many public swimming beaches and parks with picnic areas and boat launches.

I must admit, I felt like I stuck out like a sore thumb here-like a complete "tourista" in my own county.  I was calling the area "The Muskokas," thinking I must be referring to a mountain range or a lake system like "The Rockies" or  "The Finger Lakes."  This was my first mistake as an outsider.  TIP: The correct term is just Muskoka like "Aspen" or "Whistler."  Muskoka is named after a district of six municipalities, not a town, hence my confusion.

Lake of Bays Brewery Biergarten

The next day we left Bracebridge and continued on our little beer pilgrimage...a brewgrimage if you will.  Instead of heading further along highway 11 to Algonquin Provincial Park, we took Highway 117 to Baysville, which is a charming village in Lake Of Bays.  Not THE Lake Of  Bays; I was trying to get the lingo right!  Lake of Bays is a township within the district of Muskoka, Baysville being the southernmost of the towns.  The village of Baysville is situated on a lake called...wait for it...Lake Of Bays.  There were lots of steamships on the lakes of Muskoka in the 1800s, and Baysville was connected via steamer to Dwight, Dorset and several other communities on Lake Of Bays.  Looking at the map, I realized this area is way too big to explore in one or two weekends.

Lake Of Bays Brewery is located on Highway117 that goes through the centre of Baysville. Here is where you can go to the store and get a little taste of the craft beers Lake Of Bays Brewery has on offer and purchase beer to take home.  They also have a warm and welcoming Biergarten full of picnic tables and brightly painted Muskoka deck chairs to enjoy a sunny spot and a cold beer.  TIP: The deck chairs out here are called MUSKOKA chairs, not ADIRONDACK chairs!  Canadian lingo vs. American, but they are the same thing.  TIP: Lake of Bays Brewery just opened a second Brewhouse in Huntsville just North of Bracebridge- with a restaurant to open this summer of 2018!

Miss Nelle's Cafe, Baysville

Just down the street from Lake of Bays Brewery is a Baysville institution.   Stroll down Bay Street towards "The Narrows" as the locals call the lake at this point, and you come across Miss Nelle's Cafe and Antique Market.  Miss Nell Connelly was a resident of Baysville and owned a store here at #2 Bay street since 1966.  The house itself was built in 1872 and was used as a supply store to outfit the steamships that used to go up and down Lake Of Bays at the turn of the century.  Miss Nell got a job here in 1918, and in 1966 she bought the property and ran it as a general store.  In 2000, at the age of 100, Miss Nell decided to sell the store and retire. Miss Nelle's Antique Cafe was created, and Miss Nell got to enjoy sitting on the porch and taking in the gorgeous view of the lake she loved so very much.

Muskoka❤Love

Today the cafe bustles with locals and tourists alike enjoying delicious home baking, full breakfasts, lunch sandwiches & paninis, soups and chilli.  Miss Nelle's is also licenced so you can enjoy a nice glass of wine or a cold beer with your lunch.  In the summer, there is an ice cream shack selling local Kawartha Dairy ice cream and a new outdoor BBQ area!  The cafe also sells local handcrafted goods and gifts, including delicious Muskoka Roastery Coffee from Huntsville.  Muskoka Coffee is our absolute favourite coffee in Ontario (maybe even all of Canada).  The coffee is 100% organic, and this company is super environmentally friendly, folks.  I can't say enough good stuff about this roastery, and their Wood-Roasted Espresso is the most delicious coffee I've had in Canada.  

Butter Tarts With A View Of The Lake

We sat on the porch of Miss Nelle's savouring the most delicious homemade butter tarts I think have ever consumed, washed down with dark Muskoka coffee and enjoyed the view of the boats gliding along on the lake.  You could just imagine the place in its heyday, alive and busy with all steamships docked here letting off passengers, picking up supplies and unloading goods.  Now it's a tourist's paradise of butter tarts, beer and sparkling lake water!

If you want to get out on that crystal blue water, you can arrange a Boat Tour with Lake of Bays Boat Tours.  They pick you upright on the dock off of Baysville Terrance located just behind Miss Nelle's.  Three hour guided tours depart daily from the Riverfront Dock Park on Baysville Terrace.  These tours fill up fast at only $45, and you must book ahead.  They also arrange private charters for up to 12 guests and service all points on Lake Of Bays.
To discover more up to date tourist information, I found the Muskoka Tourism website very helpful.  The website breaks down the tourism into the six Muskoka districts for you so you can search by region.

I can't think of a better way to spend an afternoon in Baysville then getting out on The Lake Of Bays and maybe have a swim in that crystal clear water.   But we had a campsite waiting for us in Algonquin Park, and we wanted to arrive before evening to set up our camp.  Now that we were stocked up with beer, coffee and butter tarts from Baysville, we felt genuinely prepared for our camping trip with our Muskoka luxury items.  This area of Ontario has impressed this little BC hippie "Nature Biscuit" from out west! Muskoka is a blend of history, beautiful landscapes and a unique vacation vibe of cottage-goers that have been returning to the same little houses on these lakes for many, many generations.
I look forward to exploring the rest of Muskoka over the years, one weekend at a time...❤

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