With a castle-topped hill, lively grand squares, brightly tiled buildings, and endless views, Lisbon is a bustling wonder. My first visit to the colourful Portuguese capital was a delightful whirlwind that left me longing for more.
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| Miradouro at São Jorge |
Lisbon has been changing over the past 10 years. Once a European bargain, word has gotten out, and Lisbon is as expensive as Rome, Barcelona, or Paris. The recent increase in tourism and expats moving to Portugal has caused a lot of growing pains for Lisboetas, causing housing prices to go up and pushing locals out of the city. There are still some authentic slices of Lisbon culture to be enjoyed and bargains to be had if you know where to look.
If you arrive in Lisbon on a Monday, know that most museums and attractions are closed. I arrived in a sunny Lisbon on an early Monday morning flight from Canada. After purchasing my LISBOA card at the airport Information Centre that covered my free transport and attractions in Lisbon for the next three days, I hopped on the metro that took me down to the old center of Lisbon in about 30 minutes. I rented an Airbnb in the Alfama District of Lisbon. Alfama is one of the oldest areas of Lisbon to survive after the massive 1755 earthquake that leveled the city. Alfama is known for its steep hills, sweeping views, and iconic Castle São Jorge. My check-in time at the Airbnb was not until 3 in the afternoon, so I stored my luggage for the day using an app on my phone called BOUNCE. I found luggage storage very near my accommodation for about 6€ which allowed me to explore the nearby castle right away without dragging my luggage.
The castle was built in the mid-11th century by the Moors and captured 100 years later by the first king of Portugal. The 360-degree views of the city and the Tagus River from the battlements are the best in the city. There is a great quiosque de refresco located under shady Umbrella Pine trees on the viewpoint terrace of the castle that serves snacks and beverages of all kinds. Be careful not to leave your food unattended; otherwise, one of the 60 or so peacocks that free-range the fortress grounds may snitch your snack! Peacocks have been living in the Castelo gardens since the 15th century when Portuguese explorers brought them back from India as a gift to King Manuel I. There is a small but interesting museum on the castle grounds, along with FREE guided tours of the castle in English four times daily. Also, if you like heights, you can climb all the way up to the very top of the castle ramparts.
Entrance to Castelo São Jorge is open 7 days a week, 9:00-9:00 (21:00) and costs 15€ or is free with your Lisboa Card. For more information on the castle and the FREE guided tours provided, please visit the website castelodesaojorge.pt
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| Walking through Alfama |
Walking from the top of town through the Alfama district to the riverfront below is part of the Lisbon adventure. Alfama is a labyrinth of narrow streets and alleyways that spill down a steep hillside. These streets have been inhabited since Medieval Moorish times, and most of the neighbourhood surprises visitors with beautiful views and hidden squares called largos.
I recommend taking your time exploring this vibrant neighbourhood and meandering through the winding staircases and narrow cobbled alleys. Just make sure you have sturdy shoes! For more info on Alfama, check out my BLOG POST on 5 Tips For First Timers Guide To Lisbon.
The heart of Lisbon to me is the sprawling waterfront square, Praça do Comércio. Here you will find the elegant Arco da Rua Augusta, ushering the busy, iconic pedestrian street Rua Augusta down to the Tagus River. Rua Augusta is packed with shops, outdoor cafes, and chic boutiques, and it's fun to meander up the street following the Calçada portuguesa, which is the traditional black-and-white mosaic cobblestones.
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| Praça do Comércio |
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| Arco da Rua Augusta |
One of the best viewpoints, or miradouros, in Lisbon is the view from atop Arco da Rua Augusta. The entrance to the arch is located on Rua Augusta on the right side as you walk through the arch from Praça do Comércio. It is €4.50 or FREE with your LISBOA card. An elevator takes you up to the clock room, and then a very narrow flight of stone spiral stairs leads up to the outdoor observation deck. The staircase is so narrow it does not allow for 2 way traffic, so there is a "traffic light" system in place where you push a button to get a green light to go up or down the staircase. The 360-degree views of Lisbon from the top of the arch are spectacular. The arch is open daily from 10:00 am to 7:00 pm.
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| Rua Augusta from the top of the Arch |
Praça do Comércio is also home to the LISBOA STORY CENTRE & MUSEUM, an interactive museum where you can learn about the city's history, including the 1755 earthquake that changed Lisbon forever. At the south end of Praça do Comércio, you will see some marble columns and steps leading directly into the Tagus River. These steps are called Cais das Colunas, and they mark the historic spot where royals and dignitaries would enter Lisbon. Praça do Comércio is also a lovely spot to take a break, soak up the sun, and people-watch. There is a nice gelato shop under the beautiful 18th-century arcades and also the oldest cafe in Lisbon, called Martinho da Arcada, which opened in 1782. The drinks in this square are not cheap; you are looking at €10-€14 for a spritz or Caipirinha, but if you walk 8 minutes down the road to Pink Street, drinks will be a fraction of the cost!
Praça do Comércio is also where you would catch your tram (the 15E tram) Westbound to Belém. I decided to dedicate a whole day to exploring this historic neighbourhood of Lisbon. See separate POST on Belém.
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| Sé de Lisboa |
On the way back to my Airbnb in the Alfama District, the Lisbon cathedral, or Sé de Lisboa, sits perched on a hill overlooking the city. The word Sé in Portuguese means cathedral or seat of a diocese, referring to the Latin word sedes meaning seat. The Cathedral was built in 1147 after the siege of Lisbon to reclaim the city from the Moors, making the Sé the oldest church in the city. It took roughly 200 years to build the Romanesque-style church, but it features Gothic elements like its 14th-century cloister and later Baroque additions. This makes Lisbon's Sé an eclectic architectural masterpiece. The Sé was severely damaged in the 1755 earthquake and subsequent fires, destroying priceless pieces of art. Luckily, the church was situated high enough up the Alfama hillside to escape the tsunami that followed the subsequent disaster.
Inside the austere, somber cathedral is a gorgeous stained-glass rose window that was replicated in the 1930s from historical drawings after the original was destroyed in the 1755 earthquake. I love this window because it allows light and colour into the otherwise dim and fortress-like interior of the church. There is a 3-room treasury museum upstairs after you go through the ticket booth that has some interesting artifacts, and the views of the nave and the church below are impressive, but don't miss the outside balcony that spans the facade of the Cathedral. Look for a small door opposite the treasury to step out on the narrow balcony for a superb view of the Baixa district and the Tagus River.
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| View From The Choir |
The cathedral is open Monday to Saturday, November to March, 10am- 6 pm
April to October: 9:30am - 7pm.
Closed on Sundays and Holy Days, including Christmas and New Year's Day
Ticket prices are €7 or €5 with the LISBOA card (it used to be free with the Lisboa card), plus you can pay an extra €3 for an interactive smartphone guided tour app.
Check the website for the Cathedral HERE
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| Inside the Sé de Lisboa |
Making the uphill trek that winds through the medieval alleys of Alfama is difficult after a long day of walking and sightseeing. The reward is a stunning sunset view over Lisbon's red tiled rooftops and the Tagus River. Two of the most charming miradouros sit almost next to each other, connected by a scenic walkway running along the old Moorish city wall. Miradouro de Santa Luzia and Miradouro das Portas do Sol. There are Quiosques or outdoor cafe kiosks serving coffee, beer, wine, sangria, and light snacks at both of these miradouros, so you can take a moment to relax after your climb. The quiosques usually close around sunset, but the Portas do Sol quiosque often stays open a bit later into the evening during warmer months.
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| Amalia Rodrigues mural |
After freshening up for dinner, the Alfama calls out to me to be explored by night. After dark, Alfama transforms into a moody, atmospheric maze with the smell of grilled fish and live Fado music spilling out of taverns. At every turn, there are dimly lit cobblestone alleys and glowing lanterns that create a romantic, ageless ambiance that feels far away from modern Lisbon. I had fun wandering the medieval streets and stopping in at several taverns to have petiscos, which are like appetizers, meant for sharing, much like Spanish tapas. Many small taverns and dedicated casas do fado throughout Alfama offer live Fado performances in the evenings. One of my favourite casas do fado was Alma Do Fado Alfama just minutes down the hill from Castelo de São Jorge.
Whether you come to Lisbon for the history, food, unforgettable views or for the haunting melodies of Fado, Portugal's capital city has a way of staying with you long after you leave. What was your favourite memory of Lisbon? Share it in the comments below!
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