Spring Road Trip Through Portugal

 

Lisbon has captivated me since the 2020 pandemic, when my world of travel was confined to books, Instagram posts and my laptop. The more I uncovered about Portugal's abundance of history, vibrant culture and breathtaking natural beauty beyond Lisbon, the stronger the call to explore this wonderful country became.  2026 was the time to finally answer that call.

Since this was my first visit to Portugal, I wanted to experience as many regions of this beautiful country as possible. I aimed to strike a balance between the excitement of big cities, inspiring historical sites, quaint country villages, and seaside relaxation, all of which would give me a taste of authentic Portugal. However, my dilemma was that I wanted to see it all!

I invested a lot of time into planning my itinerary, leaving little room for flexibility or spontaneous adventures, which is not typical of my "Slow Travel" style. I wanted to explore more of Portugal beyond the popular destinations of Lisbon, Porto, and the Algarve. As I researched my options, I felt overwhelmed by the choices between historical sites like castles, monasteries, and palaces.  Not to mention so many charming villages and natural parks. Ultimately, I decided to create one large circular route that would start and end in Lisbon, heading northward to explore the diverse regions.

The adventure begins in Lisbon, where I spend four days exploring the city and take a side day-trip to romantic Sintra.  Then I pick up a car at the airport and head to the Central Coast surf mecca of Nazaré for some chill time, stopping in the medieval village of Óbidos.  From Nazaré, there are some awe-inspiring historical sights to visit all within a thirty-minute drive: Tomar, Batalha and Alcobaca.

Heading North again, I made a stop in the historic University town of Coimbra for one night before arriving in Portugal's second largest city, Porto.

After spending two nights in the vibrant city of Porto, I headed inland along the Douro River to explore Portugal's most famous wine region.  Pinhão was my base for exploring the Douro River region by boat and a nearby village, Vila Nova de Foz Côa, for an archeological safari.

This is where I started to head south from the Duoro valley, to the Beira Baixa district, into the Serra da Estrella mountain range.  Perched on top of a granite mountain, my next stop is the magical village of Monsanto.

Continuing my journey South into the Alentejo region, I spend a night wandering the whitewashed streets of Évora, taking in the magnificent Roman sights. Nearby, an ancient stone circle on the outskirts of the city begs to be explored.

 

For the last portion of my trip to Portugal, I head to the country's southern coast, spending four days in the Algarve region. Based out of the charming small town of Carvoeiro, I explore the Seven Valley Hiking Trail and the famous Benagil sea caves.  

A trip to the Algarve's South Coast wouldn't be complete without a visit to what was once considered the "End of the World" of Cape Sagres, now a modern surfer haven.  

The journey concludes with returning the rental car to the Lisbon airport and spending my last night in the Olivais district of Lisbon.

Have you experienced the wonders of Portugal? I’d love to hear all about your adventures! Share in the comments what captivated you the most during your trip and your top “must-see” spots for our epic Portuguese road trip! Let's uncover the gems of this beautiful country together!

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Hidden Umbria: Civita di Bagnoregio

Somewhere between Ghost Town and Fairy Tale Village floats Civita di Bagnoregio.  Referred to as "the Dying Town," Civita di Bagnoregio is a medieval wonderland lost in time...

Central Italy has no shortage of off-the-beaten-path hill towns to discover.  The Provinces of Tuscany, Umbria and Lazio meet at the Valle dei Calanchi or Valley Of The Badlands and is home to one of Italy's most beautiful villages, Civita di Bagnoregio.  Civita is situated about 24 km to Orvieto in Umbria, making it a perfect day trip.  Full of Medieval architecture, smack in the middle of a stunning canyon and Civita di Bagnoregio is completely car-free. 

Italian Poet Fillipo Paparazzi once wrote that Civita di Bagnoregio was "an island bravely poised in the middle of the air, on the top of a truncated cone, above the immense abyss..."

Maria's Garden

Built upon a foundation of tufa upon clay that is slowly eroding with every passing year, Civita di Bagnoregio was founded by The Etruscans over 2,500 years ago. Like the town of Pitigliano, the Romans took over in 265 BCE and renamed the settlement Bagnoregium.  Much of the town has already slid into the canyon below after a massive earthquake, and the residents moved across the ravine to the modern city of Bagnoregio.  There are less than 20 permanent residents living in Civita di Bagnoregio today. Most of the well-cared-for homes in the village are weekend escapes for city folks.  There are more cats than inhabitants lounging in the shady gardens.  

Getting to Civita di Bagnoregio which lies two hours north of Rome, is simple.  The closest large town to Civita is Orvieto in Umbria.  There are busses leaving from Orvieto to the Bagnoregio bus station several times a day, and then it's a 20-minute walk to the bridge that crosses the canyon to Civita.  Alternately, there is a shuttle bus during tourist season that leaves the Bagnoregio bus station and drops you at the bridge crossing.  If you arrive by car, drive through Bagnoregio's main street following the yellow street signs to Civita di Banoregio's metered parking lot.  There is a booth where you can pay to cross the footbridge (in 2026, it is €5),

A pedestrian footbridge stretches across the vast canyon, leading upward to the Roman archway, which is the village's entrance.  Stepping through the Porta Santa Maria arch, you walk along the Etruscan road that was carved 2,500 years ago.  These ancient cobbled roads had led to Rome before Rome WAS Rome!

Civita di Bagnoregio is a delightful place to spend an afternoon-WITH NO AGENDA.  

There are no main sights to see in Civita di Bagnorgio. The delight is to stroll the hamlet, take a million pictures, have lunch & a coffee and perhaps stop to pet the many, many cats here.  The village is tiny, so it doesn't take long to wander around it.  Enjoy the Etruscan carvings, the medieval layout of the town, the remains of the renaissance palace. Find the outdoor laundry sinks, where the locals have been meeting for decades.

On the main piazza, check out the church of San Donato.  You will notice round columns in front of the church. These were once the foundation of an Etruscan temple, then a Roman temple and finally a Christian cathedral.  Take a moment to peek inside the church to admire the beautiful and haunting 15th-century crucifix carved out of pear wood.  

As you stroll the village and take in the views, wander the small alleyways, admire the display of flowers that explode from every window box and staircase.

At the end of the town, the main street begins to slowly wind downhill. The road eventually turns into a trail that villagers used to travel to attend their farms on the valley floor.  If you descend along the pathway, you begin to see caves carved out by the Etruscans 2,500 years ago!  These caves were used as wine cellars and storage for farm equipment until just a few decades ago. 

One cave has a gate in front of it, sealing it off, but you can peer inside.  This is the Cappella del Carcere or The Chapel of The Incarcerated.  This was most likely an Etruscan tomb, but in Medieval times it was used as the city's jail.  This humble "chapel" is a special place of worship for the few remaining Civita residents and is the town's starting point for religious processions.  Now that you have worked up an appetite exploring Civita, it's time for a meal!

There are many choices for food in Civita.  I decided to stop for a delicious lunch at a small Osteria off the main piazza called La Cantina di Arianna. Delicious "bruschetta" (toasted bread with local olive oil) and homemade salumi, and of course, the local Orvieto Classico white wine is the best!  Check out my blog post for more information on Wines to Try in Umbria.  My son had so much fun feeding the cats and their little kittens that gathered under our table during lunch.  It seems like outdoor dining in hill towns often means you will have little furry guests joining you for your meal.

Civita di Bagnoregio had soared in popularity since I first visited it in 2013 when it was just a sleepy little ghost town on the Tuscan-Umbrian border.  I recommend planning your visit to Civita earlier in the day or later in the evening, catching the sunset, to avoid the mass tour-bus crowds.  Just remember to slow down your pace and enjoy sauntering around this unique place on earth.

Have you been to Civita?  What was your impression; a tourist trap or a slice of heaven?  Let me know in the comments below!

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Montepulciano, Tuscany~Vistas & Vino!

Stradling, a ridge between the Chiana and Orcia Valleys, the Tuscan hill town of Montepulciano, offers visitors sweeping vistas, rustic Tuscan food and world-class wine...it's all vino & vistas

Sitting on a 2,000-foot limestone ridge near the Umbrian border, Montepulciano was said to have been founded by an Etruscan king in the 4th century BCE.  The city grew in Roman times increasing in importance and has been ruled alternately by Siena and Florence over the centuries, with each ruling city leaving their distinct marks on Montepulciano.   The Middle Ages saw constant fighting amongst Montepulciano's noble families until the Del Pecora family, who had ties to Santa Margherita of Cortona, became the rulers in 1390. 

Today Montepulciano doesn't offer travelers a list of must-see sights to tick off their list; instead, an authentic experience of  Tuscan food, wine and relaxed wandering.

Montepulciano is around 70 km south of Siena, 124 km south of Florence, 186 km north of Rome, but just a half-hour drive from my VBRO rental villa in Cortona. In fact,  I can see the lights of Montepulciano each night from the terraced yard that overlooks the beautiful Val di Chiana.  Montepulciano is easy to navigate, the newer part of town is at the bottom of the hill full of gift shops, gelaterias and restaurants gearing towards the tourist hoards.  The real treasure of Montepulciano is at the top of the hill where the historical center hides a fortress, the Duomo and palazzos for days...

Driving in Montepulciano is not advised.  Most of the historical centre is restricted to local traffic only or zona traffic limitation.  There are several easily accessible day parking lots around the edges of the town.  Signs to the parking lots are well marked and numbered 1-8.  If you are looking for free parking near the historical centre, try lot #8 near the Fortezza.

The inviting castle is the very top of town.  Constructed in the 1200s on top of Roman ruins, the Fortezza is Montepulciano's art and cultural centre, hosting all sorts of exhibits and events for locals and tourists alike. 

Entering the main square, Piazza Grande, one can't help but notice this Piazza feels somehow familiar.
This central square is dominated by the Palazzo Comunale, which looks very similar to the Palazzo Vecchio in Florence.  Florence ruled this hill town in the middle ages, and Piazza Grande is covered with the Medici coat of arms showing that Montepulciano was aligned with Florence's power & wealth. The town is absolutely gorgeous, with endless views of the Tuscan countryside. I can see why Montepulciano was the Renaissance stomping grounds for the Florentine elite.

Look for the Pozzo or well in Piazza Grande.  Beneath it is a giant cistern that held water for all the surrounding palaces.   Above the well are two lions, the symbol of the powerful Medici family of Florence.  The lions hold up the Medici coat of arms, kind of like a paid political advertisement of the Middle Ages~ "This clean water brought to you by The Medici Family...you're welcome."

For 360 degree views of the Tuscan countryside, a trip up the tower of Palazzo Comunale is a must.  To climb the tower, head into the palazzo and up the stairs on the left.  On the second floor is the cashier office (open 10am-6pm) and it a €5 entrance fee.  From the top of the tower, Montepulciano flows down the hill like a silk veil into the lush Tuscan farmland- so breathtakingly beautiful.   You also get views of the square below with Palazzo de' Nobili-Tarugi in its arcaded Renaissance splendor, the Duomo with its unfinished facade, Palazzo Contucci. The Contucci palace was built by del Pecora family whose son hid Saint Margherita of Cortona away as his mistress, and is surrounded by many other stunning Renaissance palaces in the Piazza. 

Photo of San Biagio by Klaus Stebani

From your perch on the top of the tower, you can see the domed church on San Biagio below.  This domed masterpiece was the work of Renaissance artist Antonio da Sangallo who also designed Palazzo Tarugi.  Both of these elegant buildings are built out of locally quarried travertine marble. Bramante, the master architect, spent time in Montepulciano, and the dome of San Biagio influenced his design of St. Peter's dome at the Vatican.  A walk down to San Biagio along Via di San Biagio from San Francesco church is a delightful stroll.


A quick peeked into the Duomo on the Piazza Grande for a look at the art is worth the stop.  The church was supposed to be covered by Travertine marble, but the town was cut off from funds when Siena was overpowered by Florence.  To the left, when you enter the Duomo, is the Early Renaissance work by Sienese master Andrea Della Robbia.  The "Alter of Lilies" in the baptismal font is a gorgeous glazed terracotta piece that is all golden & gothic.    



Behind the altar of the church is a three-panel retable by Sienese early Renaissance artist Taddeo di Bartolo. Painted in 1401, this altarpiece includes a self-portrait of the artist as one of the apostles.  This panel was painted in-situ, which means this work of art is displayed in the place that it was intended to for-not a museum.  It's my favourite way to appreciate the art the way the artist intended it to be experienced.
Other treasures in Montepulciano must be experienced, but not of the visual sense...

Corso of Montepulciano

Montepulciano is known for a few food specialties like honey, a thick hand-rolled pasta called pinci that looks like fat spaghetti and, of course, its wine: Vino Nobile di Montepulciano.  Vino Nobile is the other heavyweight wine of Tuscany alongside Chianti and Brunello.  Not to be confused with Montepulciano d'Abruzzo wine, which made from a grape variety called Montepulciano, or Rosso di Montepulciano a lighter version of Vino Nobile.  The DOCG regulated Vino Nobile is made from mostly Sangiovese grapes, some Canaiolo Nero and a splash of Mammolo grapes and aged 2 years, with half that time in oak barrels.  Spend some time in a wine cellar like the one in the Contucci Palace tasting the Vino Nobile.  The Contucci family has been living in this Palace for almost 1,000 years, and there is nothing like sampling wines in a cellar dating back to the 13th century.   www.contucci.it    



Next, I headed downhill and ran a gauntlet of wine stores, passing many delightful artisan shops and found a quiet little "trattoria."  Sitting outside a tiny piazza overlooked by a whimsical clocktower on top of Palazzo Bucelli, I had a very memorable lunch.  It was a hot afternoon in the mid-September sun, so I ordered  "Panzanella" which is a type of Tuscan traditional dish of bread salad with tomatoes and olive oil.  Along with the salad, I had a "mezzo" litre or half-litre of local white wine, Montepulciano Bianco.  This local wine is the colour of pale straw; light, sweet and crisp-perfect for a summer lunch one a patio.  I wish I had picked up a bottle to bring home.


If you can stay in Montepulciano into the evening, or better yet, overnight, you will find the town makes an almost audible sigh of relief as the day-trippers return to the big cities.  As the sun sinks below the sun-drenched Tuscan hills, the shops close, and locals relax and full restaurants spill out into the piazzas.  This is the time of day when you forget Montepulciano's history and the sights and just enjoy the vibe of the town and being in the moment. 

Whether you are a wine connoisseur, an architecture devotee or just like beautiful scenery, Montepulciano has it all!   

 

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