I love a good story. I also love food, wine, and travel. When I was researching traditional Roman food and wine to try on our trip to Rome, I came across a fantastic legend that I would like to share with you...
It seems that in the early 12th century there was this German Bishop named Johannes Fugger. Like a lot of Germans I know, Johannes loved his wine...A LOT. When Johannes had to travel to Rome (possibly for the coronation of Henry V in 1110), he panicked at the thought that he would have to endure crappy wine along the Pilgrim road. We've all been there; I could feel his pain.
But Johannes was a smart drunk...er, I mean Bishop. He sent his loyal prelate out ahead of him every morning to go to the next village and scout out the tavern with the best wine. The prelate's instructions were to then write the word: "Est" code for "Vinum est Bonum" (which is Latin for "The wine is good") on the door of a tavern with decent wine. In this way, Johannes could ensure the replenishment of alcohol in his bloodstream on a consistent basis; yet with his discerning palate in mind.
 |
| Montefiascone Overlooking Lake Bolsena |
When Bishop Fugger and his entourage came to the hill town of Montefiascone overlooking Lake Bolsena in Northern Lazio, he found a door with the words Est! Est!! EST!!! on it. The prelate must have found some really good wine! The story goes that Bishop Fugger liked the wine here so much, he went on a three-day bender and almost forgot about his trip to Rome! In fact, the wine was all he could think about even when he was in Rome. So when his business in Rome was done, he went straight back to Monefiascone where he stayed for the rest of his life; happily pickled.
 |
| Church of San Flaviano in Montefiascone |
Poor Johannes. He is buried in the Church of San Flaviano with a tomb inscription in Latin that says: "Est, Est, Est et propler nimium est, dominus meus mortuus est!" which translates something like: " The wine is good. It is also because of too much, my Lord is dead".
But there is a happy ending! Bishop Fugger was such a devoted wino, that he bequeathed the town of Montefiascone 24,000 scudi and asked that every year on the anniversary of his death, a barrel of wine be poured upon his grave.
 |
| Simple Dinner On The Road |
Now, every year there is a festival held in mid-August in Montefiascone called the "Fiero del Vino" or Festival of Wine, in honour of Bishop Fugger. People dress up in period costumes, and parade through the town looking for the words Est! Est!! Est!!! written on a tavern door. The festival culminates at the Church of San Flaviano where wine is then poured on Johannes Fugger's final resting place, and the party continues late into the night with lots of toasting. This is a local festival not to be missed.
What lesson did we learn from this, kids? That the wine in Italy is so freakin' good; you don't ever want to go home! Amen!
Today, the wine Est! Est!! Est!!! is a delightful, easy-drinking table wine consisting of a blend of Trebbiano and Malvasia Bianca grapes. You can get a good DOC version of this wine; we like Le Pòggere by Falesco winery. The "value variety" from the supermarket is fine too, and pairs great with Roman fried vegetables or deep-fried artichokes.
Enjoy your est, Est, EST! and remember to propose a toast to old Bishop Fugger: Salute Johannes!
No comments:
Post a Comment