Montepulciano, Tuscany~Vistas & Vino!

Stradling, a ridge between the Chiana and Orcia Valleys, the Tuscan hill town of Montepulciano, offers visitors sweeping vistas, rustic Tuscan food and world-class wine...it's all vino & vistas

Sitting on a 2,000-foot limestone ridge near the Umbrian border, Montepulciano was said to have been founded by an Etruscan king in the 4th century BCE.  The city grew in Roman times increasing in importance and has been ruled alternately by Siena and Florence over the centuries, with each ruling city leaving their distinct marks on Montepulciano.   The Middle Ages saw constant fighting amongst Montepulciano's noble families until the Del Pecora family, who had ties to Santa Margherita of Cortona, became the rulers in 1390. 

Today Montepulciano doesn't offer travelers a list of must-see sights to tick off their list; instead, an authentic experience of  Tuscan food, wine and relaxed wandering.

Montepulciano is around 70 km south of Siena, 124 km south of Florence, 186 km north of Rome, but just a half-hour drive from my VBRO rental villa in Cortona. In fact,  I can see the lights of Montepulciano each night from the terraced yard that overlooks the beautiful Val di Chiana.  Montepulciano is easy to navigate, the newer part of town is at the bottom of the hill full of gift shops, gelaterias and restaurants gearing towards the tourist hoards.  The real treasure of Montepulciano is at the top of the hill where the historical center hides a fortress, the Duomo and palazzos for days...

Driving in Montepulciano is not advised.  Most of the historical centre is restricted to local traffic only or zona traffic limitation.  There are several easily accessible day parking lots around the edges of the town.  Signs to the parking lots are well marked and numbered 1-8.  If you are looking for free parking near the historical centre, try lot #8 near the Fortezza.

The inviting castle is the very top of town.  Constructed in the 1200s on top of Roman ruins, the Fortezza is Montepulciano's art and cultural centre, hosting all sorts of exhibits and events for locals and tourists alike. 

Entering the main square, Piazza Grande, one can't help but notice this Piazza feels somehow familiar.
This central square is dominated by the Palazzo Comunale, which looks very similar to the Palazzo Vecchio in Florence.  Florence ruled this hill town in the middle ages, and Piazza Grande is covered with the Medici coat of arms showing that Montepulciano was aligned with Florence's power & wealth. The town is absolutely gorgeous, with endless views of the Tuscan countryside. I can see why Montepulciano was the Renaissance stomping grounds for the Florentine elite.

Look for the Pozzo or well in Piazza Grande.  Beneath it is a giant cistern that held water for all the surrounding palaces.   Above the well are two lions, the symbol of the powerful Medici family of Florence.  The lions hold up the Medici coat of arms, kind of like a paid political advertisement of the Middle Ages~ "This clean water brought to you by The Medici Family...you're welcome."

For 360 degree views of the Tuscan countryside, a trip up the tower of Palazzo Comunale is a must.  To climb the tower, head into the palazzo and up the stairs on the left.  On the second floor is the cashier office (open 10am-6pm) and it a €5 entrance fee.  From the top of the tower, Montepulciano flows down the hill like a silk veil into the lush Tuscan farmland- so breathtakingly beautiful.   You also get views of the square below with Palazzo de' Nobili-Tarugi in its arcaded Renaissance splendor, the Duomo with its unfinished facade, Palazzo Contucci. The Contucci palace was built by del Pecora family whose son hid Saint Margherita of Cortona away as his mistress, and is surrounded by many other stunning Renaissance palaces in the Piazza. 

Photo of San Biagio by Klaus Stebani

From your perch on the top of the tower, you can see the domed church on San Biagio below.  This domed masterpiece was the work of Renaissance artist Antonio da Sangallo who also designed Palazzo Tarugi.  Both of these elegant buildings are built out of locally quarried travertine marble. Bramante, the master architect, spent time in Montepulciano, and the dome of San Biagio influenced his design of St. Peter's dome at the Vatican.  A walk down to San Biagio along Via di San Biagio from San Francesco church is a delightful stroll.


A quick peeked into the Duomo on the Piazza Grande for a look at the art is worth the stop.  The church was supposed to be covered by Travertine marble, but the town was cut off from funds when Siena was overpowered by Florence.  To the left, when you enter the Duomo, is the Early Renaissance work by Sienese master Andrea Della Robbia.  The "Alter of Lilies" in the baptismal font is a gorgeous glazed terracotta piece that is all golden & gothic.    



Behind the altar of the church is a three-panel retable by Sienese early Renaissance artist Taddeo di Bartolo. Painted in 1401, this altarpiece includes a self-portrait of the artist as one of the apostles.  This panel was painted in-situ, which means this work of art is displayed in the place that it was intended to for-not a museum.  It's my favourite way to appreciate the art the way the artist intended it to be experienced.
Other treasures in Montepulciano must be experienced, but not of the visual sense...

Corso of Montepulciano

Montepulciano is known for a few food specialties like honey, a thick hand-rolled pasta called pinci that looks like fat spaghetti and, of course, its wine: Vino Nobile di Montepulciano.  Vino Nobile is the other heavyweight wine of Tuscany alongside Chianti and Brunello.  Not to be confused with Montepulciano d'Abruzzo wine, which made from a grape variety called Montepulciano, or Rosso di Montepulciano a lighter version of Vino Nobile.  The DOCG regulated Vino Nobile is made from mostly Sangiovese grapes, some Canaiolo Nero and a splash of Mammolo grapes and aged 2 years, with half that time in oak barrels.  Spend some time in a wine cellar like the one in the Contucci Palace tasting the Vino Nobile.  The Contucci family has been living in this Palace for almost 1,000 years, and there is nothing like sampling wines in a cellar dating back to the 13th century.   www.contucci.it    



Next, I headed downhill and ran a gauntlet of wine stores, passing many delightful artisan shops and found a quiet little "trattoria."  Sitting outside a tiny piazza overlooked by a whimsical clocktower on top of Palazzo Bucelli, I had a very memorable lunch.  It was a hot afternoon in the mid-September sun, so I ordered  "Panzanella" which is a type of Tuscan traditional dish of bread salad with tomatoes and olive oil.  Along with the salad, I had a "mezzo" litre or half-litre of local white wine, Montepulciano Bianco.  This local wine is the colour of pale straw; light, sweet and crisp-perfect for a summer lunch one a patio.  I wish I had picked up a bottle to bring home.


If you can stay in Montepulciano into the evening, or better yet, overnight, you will find the town makes an almost audible sigh of relief as the day-trippers return to the big cities.  As the sun sinks below the sun-drenched Tuscan hills, the shops close, and locals relax and full restaurants spill out into the piazzas.  This is the time of day when you forget Montepulciano's history and the sights and just enjoy the vibe of the town and being in the moment. 

Whether you are a wine connoisseur, an architecture devotee or just like beautiful scenery, Montepulciano has it all!   

 

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ORVIETO~Classic Umbrian Hilltown

 

Set amidst a rolling landscape and surrounded by vineyards, Orvieto perches regally atop a rock outcrop 1000 feet above the valley floor...

Founded by the Etruscans around 500 BCE, Orvieto is thought by many archeologists to be the mysterious city of Velzna, a huge Etruscan city destroyed by the Romans. Later, when the Romans annexed the Etruscans, Orvieto became a major Roman stronghold because of its virtually impenetrable verticle cliffs. Orvieto became a refuge for the Pope and a castle during the Middle Ages. Many grand palaces and churches were built.

Today Orvieto, with its close proximity to the A1 Autostrada connecting Rome with Florence, has become quite the weekend destination for those escaping the big cities and a day-trip destination for foreign tourists.   While this gorgeously preserved Medieval hilltop town can be explored in one day, the real magic of Orvieto occurs at sunset when the crowds disperse, and the residents unwind.

To reach Orvietos Historical Center at the top of the cliffs, you can park at the funicular (near the train station) at the east end of town. There is also public parking on the west side of the cliffs, and you can take the elevator or escalator up to the top. Unless you have accommodation in the Centro Storico with complimentary parking, it is best to leave your car below, avoiding expensive parking fees and driving the very narrow one-way streets. If you decide to drive up to the centro storico, the most convenient parking lots are in the Piazza Cahen and Piazza del Duomo.

If you ride the funicular up to the old center, you are deposited at Piazza Cahen. There is an info centre here at the funicular station where you can get an Orvieto map and find information on various tours of the Orvieto Underground. The ruins of Rocca Albornoziana, a fortress from the mid-12th century, are to the left of Piazza Cahen. The view from here of the Umbrian countryside is outstanding. To your right are a public park, and beyond it, the remains of an ancient Etruscan Temple on the edge of the bluffs with more breathtaking views.  

St. Patricks Well

Towards the belvedere of the Etruscan temple remains is one of the most impressive feats of engineering in 16th century Italy; St. Patricks well. The Pozo di San Patrizio was built in 1527 by pope Clement while he stayed in Orvieto during the sack of Rome. The Pope knew the cliff walls of Orvieto would keep invaders at bay, but if they wanted to outlast an extended siege, the city would need an ample water supply. The well took only ten years to build and has a central shaft reaching down 53 metres (175 feet), and two separate paths spiral around the well. One path leads downwards, and the other spiral upwards so that mules carrying water only had one-way traffic to deal with. It's a fun workout to descend the 250 steps down, and the 70 windows offer those with slight claustrophobia some relief. The cost is €5, and the well is open 9-8. The audio guide is worth the €2 rental; bring a sweater-it's cold at the bottom!

Orvieto Cathedral

Orvieto is the perfect size town to manage by walking. The streets are flat and easy to stroll with the car-free Via Cavour or "the Corso" being the main route. Follow the Corso and listen for the Renaissance-era bells of Orvieto's Duomo or Cathedral. Glistening in gold and brightly coloured mosaics, the Duomo's facade is a feast for the eyes! Resembling Siena's Cathedral with its black & white striped marble, Orvieto's Duomo is also magnificent on the inside. Featuring frescoed ceilings started by Fra'Angelico and finished fifty years later by Luca Signorelli from the nearby Tuscan hill town of Cortona. Signorelli's masterpiece and not to be missed piece of art in Orvieto is the Chapel of San Brizio, featuring beautifully lit frescoed scenes of the Apocalypse. The entrance price for seeing the Cathedral, including the San Brizio Chapel, is €5.

Orvieto Underground

If you want more subterranean tours, The Well of The Cave (Pozzo della Cava) is a vast network of underground caverns, tunnels and wells dating back to the Roman and Etruscan civilizations of Orvieto. The tunnels provide an excellent exploring adventure for kids but are not for the claustrophobic! Self-guided tours are €4/€2.50 for children. For more information, visit pozzodellacava.it

Etruscan Tombs

There are two Etruscan burial sites at the base of Orvieto's cliff. Called a Necropolis, these are literally cities of the dead where the burial tombs look like miniature stone houses laid out in a city grid plan.  On the Southside of Orvieto is the Necropolis of Cannicella, and to the North of  the town is the Necropoli Etrusca del Crocifisso del Tufo.  This is the one I chose to visit because it had a large free parking lot and a small museum holding some of the archeological findings from the area. You can wander freely amongst the tombs that date back to the 5th century BCE and even go inside some of them. You can even see the Etruscan family name carved in stone above the tomb entrance. Tickets €3; closed Mondays & Tuesdays.

Orvieto Wine & Wine Tasting

Orvieto is known for its delicious white wines, appropriately named Orvieto Classico. A blend of 40% Grechetto, 20-40% Trebbiano (locally called Procanico) and up to 40% of other white grape blends such as Verdello and Malvasia Bianco. Orvieto Classico is a DOC wine is a pale straw colour that is light and crisp, with a delicate floral taste. There are many enoteca 0r wine bars to try different local wine varieties, including Orvieto "secco" or dry white. Another fun thing to do is tour a local vineyard and have a wine tasting. You can arrange this with the local Tourist Information Centre near the funicular station in Piazza Cahen or visit the tourist office online at orvietoviva.com to plan your tour. For more on discovering wines of Umbria, don't miss my popular blog post 7 Wines To Try In Umbria

Civita di Bagnoregio

A short 20km from Orvieto is the well-preserved Medieval village of Civita di Bagnoregio.  Considered a ghost town, Civita di Bagnoregio is nicknamed "The Dying Town" because of the gradual slide of its' perch atop a clay pillar into the steep valley below. Civita is connected by a 1 km pedestrian toll bridge crossing the canyon. It costs €5 to cross the bridge to Civita, which pays for the shoring up of the village's hillside. Stepping through the city gates is like stepping back through the mists of time; Renaissance, Medieval, Roman and Etruscan architecture blend together, becoming a fun scavenger hunt. The leisurely pace of life in Civita de Bagnoregio reminds one to slow down and enjoy the moment. Busses from Orvieto to Civita de Bagnoregio leave several times a day; check the orvietoviva.com site for the seasonal schedule. Also, check out my blog post on Civita di Bagnoregio for more information on what to see and do.

Orvieto becomes even more enchanting at night with all the day tourists from Rome gone and the historic buildings, palaces and churches delicately lit up. Stroll the Medieval city ramparts or sip a glass of wine and marvel at the Duomo. My favourite place to stay in Orvieto is La Casa di Tufo B&B right in the historic centre. I feel like I am staying with family at this charming B&B!

Orvieto is a place I stop to visit again and again. What is your favourite memory of Orvieto? The food, the wine, the architecture?

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New Year's In Italy

Carefully wading through the sea of empty prosecco bottles covering the street, we made our way towards the stage.  The music was pumping, and the crowd was dancing away and singing in unison.  It was 2am, and the party was just starting to get good.  I was standing with a few hundred Italians under the bright, almost full moon, and no other tourist was in sight.  On cue, the crowds' arms stretched up to the sky, forming a giant Y shape towards the heavens.  Was this some sort of ancient Roman cult ritual?  No, it was January 1st, and we were all dancing to The Village People, who were having fun at the...YMCA!

Speeding through the Apennine mountains in the rental car from the Medieval hill town fortress of Gubbio in Northern Umbria to the Adriatic Coast along the Via Flaminia, time was of the essence.  The Via Flaminia is the 2,200-year-old Roman road that leads from the centre of Rome through the mountainous regions of Umbria, The Marche and then to Rimini in Emilia-Romagna.  I had spent several days in Umbria leisurely following the Via Flaminia, but on New Year's Eve, I was to arrive at my "Sista From Anotha Mista," Giulia.  Giulia was waiting for me to arrive at her home in Riccione to spend our New Year's Eve in true Italian style.  
For information on the Via Flaminia, I found an excellent blog that will take you along the ancient road all the way from Rome to Rimini.  Also, most of all, the tourist offices in the towns along the Via Flaminia have maps and information you just can't find online.

Hitting the coast in Fano was quite a contrast from the snow-covered mountains of Umbria.  Not only the geography, but the buildings all seemed so....new. I expected Fano and Pesaro to look less modern than ancient Roman towns, but then again, these are swanky beach resorts for the Bolognese in the summer months.



My excitement was growing; not only did I get to see my best buddy, but we got to spend my first New Year's in Italy!  I had no idea what to expect.  I thought perhaps there were some weird Italian customs like my German family traditions, where we had to get up on a chair or coffee table during the countdown for the New Year and literally JUMP INTO the New Year!  I grew up thinking everyone did that...

Arriving in Riccione, Giulia was cooking up the customary huge Italian dinner of muscles in wine, pasta, and local fish that had just been caught earlier that morning! It was all excellent, and I thought this sumptuous dinner was the main event of the evening. However, approaching 11:00, Guilia announced that it was time to change and head to downtown Riccione for the big party!  YAAAAAAAS!



I scrambled into my "fancy" clothes, piled into the rental car and headed into Riccione's downtown area.  Riccione's superstar status is only about 80 years old.   Yes, there are some Roman ruins and ancient churches.  Still, Riccione is internationally known for its gorgeous seaside hotels, 5-star restaurants, expensive shops, famous nightclubs and some of the Adriatic's best beaches.  This is the legendary Riviera Romagnola, and the party never stops in Riccione.
The parking Gods smiled down on us, and we arrived at the hotel where Giulia's family stayed for the night.  We were lucky enough to meet Guila's family that night, including her Papa (let me tell you, this man has more energy than Giulia and I put together!).  Giulia's family is a part of Riccione's modern history, being owners of one of the first discotheques in the Savioli area. Giulia's Mom was also a DJ in a disco in the 1970s, one of Italy's first trailblazing women DJs.  These discotheques became famous and put Riccione on the map as the party capital of the Riviera Romagnola.

The prosecco was chilled and poised to pop, and desserts arrived at our table.  The next thing you know, it was 2018!  There was no countdown to midnight, like in North America.  The only way we knew it was New Year was the burst of dozens of prosecco corks popping throughout the hotel lobby and the shouts of "Auguri," which is a generic Italian saying meaning "well wishes" or "congratulations."  The whole family exchanged kisses, and  I was practicing speaking Italian, wishing everyone a "Buon Anno," which is "happy year," when I noticed many giggles of delight.  I asked Giulia what is wrong with my "Buon Anno"?  Apparently, anno is pronounced "ann-no," NOT "ano," and I had wished people a happy butthole all night.  Ah, great; well, I do hope people have happy buttholes in 2018, too!

Walking the White Carpet

Snow TeePee!

Usually, on New Year's, I would be ready for bed at 12:05, but not in Italy, of course.  We stepped outside to see the tail end of the fireworks in almost every town in Italy at midnight on New Year's.  It was a mild night perfect for walking, so the whole family headed to the main drag in Riccione, Viale Dante, to do our first "Passeggiata" of the New Year.  

TIP: A passeggiata in Italy is a leisurely stroll in the evening where you just walk up and down the main streets of a town and check out the scene.  You can do "vasche" or laps along the promenade for hours, just people-watching.


Riccione quickly became a winter wonderland, so to speak, as we passed through a giant glowing snow teepee and followed the snow path (the white fabric-lined street) past the palm trees and the twinkling lights to the central Piazza where there was a big stage set up.  Here is where it became "dangerous."   We were literally wading through an ankle-deep sea of empty prosecco bottles in high-heeled shoes towards the large crowd of folks gathered around the stage booming dance music.  It was a fantastic sight to behold; people of all ages, kids, teens, and grandparents, all having a great time.  Then, all of a sudden, a familiar song came on, and the whole crowd was rocking out to the Village People singing the YMCA!  We slid right into the sea of revellers and blended in with all the happy Italian party-goers, and it was one of those surreal moments when time stands still because you just can't believe how lucky you are to be in Italy with your best friend on New Year's!

CANDY!!!!

We decided to continue our passeggiata to an area with all the designer stores...Armani, Dolce & Gabbana, Versace.  All the shops were dolled up for the holidays, displaying mannequins in flashy club gear.  We passed by small stalls selling mulled wine, snacks and candy.  To my utter amazement, there was a small covered arcade area with kids skating AT ....2 A.M!  Back home on New Year's, I'm usually in bed at the same hour as the pre-schoolers, but here in Italy, the action never stops!  Mamma Mia!

The Saviolina

The river Melo flows through the middle of Riccione and runs into a beautiful harbour at the ocean.  There are plenty of restaurants at the pier and along the 3 km-long promenade built along the beach for pedestrians and cyclists to enjoy.  To learn more about the resort town of Riccione, visit their excellent website in English here.  We saw Giulia's historic family boat The Saviolina parked near a bridge crossing the Rio Melo it was donated to the city of Riccione as a part of her family's historical legacy.


Ultimately, I let the Italian seniors and toddlers beat me at the New Year's game.  At 3 am I had to call it quits, even though the streets were still full of people partying like it was 1999.  We all returned to the hotel where our night had started for *one more drink*, and I practiced my "Buon Anno" on people, this time without the bemused looks!  If this night was any indicator of the year ahead, then 2018 would prove to be a smashing year!


Best wishes to everyone for a prosperous and peaceful 2025, and may your travel dreams come true.🌠

Check out the Street Party In Riccione on New Years:

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Original post 03/2018