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Saturday, May 11, 2019

10 Things You Must Eat in Tuscany

Baskets of dried beans in Tuscan grocery store
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We all have images of Tuscany: charming hill towns, cypress-lined lanes leading to gorgeous villas, museums packed with magnificent art, exquisite red wines and food...oh, the food!


Truckload of fiasco bottles in Chianti region of Tuscany Italy
Like all Italian cuisine, Tuscan food is delicious, hearty and made with the freshest ingredients imaginable.  Yet, compared to other regions of Italy like Emilia-Romana and Veneto, Tuscan food is rather simple as well.  Southern Tuscany is an area of cattle ranches and cowboys, producing Italy's famous Chianina steak!  Of course, any region that eats lots of steaks will also have red wine, and Tuscany produces some of Italy's most superb full-bodied red wines.

 Every state in Tuscany has its slightly different version of a classic Tuscan dish that has remained unchanged for centuries.  Whether it is a pasta shape or the addition of mushrooms to a specific soup, the subtle differences in the recipes make it fun to try the same dish in different areas of Tuscany.

OK, a quick word on Tuscan bread.  It looks great, but it tastes, well...bland.  Here's the "Urban Myth" about why: In the Middle Ages, the Pope declared a tax on salt and Tuscans refused to use salt in their cooking even in their bread.  To this day, the Tuscan proudly serve their bread crusty on the outside, soft in the middle and happily unsalted.  At least that's the STORY, I just think Tuscans prefer their bread unsalted.



Antipasto

Fettunta Tuscan bread slices grilled and drizzled with olive oil
Fettunta goodness
Fettunta fettunta means "oily slice" in the Tuscan dialect, and it is what we would typically call Bruschetta.  Thick slices of Tuscan bread grilled over a fire and then drizzled with local olive oil.  Delicious with finocchiona, which is a fennel-scented salami.

Crostini - this is also a type of bruschetta, but the toasts are topped with a delicious chicken liver and caper pate.  Most restaurants offer a "crostini misto" where there are three slices of toasted Tuscan bread, one with olive oil (that our son ate), one topped with chopped tomato and basil (that one my husband ate) and one with chicken liver pate that was left for me.  Let's say I ended up acquiring a taste for it. 😖


Wheels of Pecorino in Pienza

Pecorino cheese - The regional cheese of Tuscany is delicious Pecorino; "Pecora" in Italian means sheep. Often called "cacio" in Tuscany, sheep milk cheese is a very creamy hard cheese and more accessible than cow's milk cheese.  Try the Pecorino Fresco, which is the younger and softer version of the cheese, it also has a milder flavour than aged Pecorino.  The best Pecorino cheese in Tuscany comes from the area of Pienza in the province of Siena.


Primi


Panzanella - Without salt, that gorgeous bread gets stale very quickly.  So what do you do with all your day-old bread?  Turn them into salads in the summer and soups in the winter!  Panzanella salad is made by soaking stale bread in water and then squeezing the liquid out. Amazingly, the bread does not get soggy in the water!  Next, add chopped fresh tomatoes, onions, basil and a delicious oil & vinegar dressing and you have a gorgeous summer salad!

A bowl of Ribollita vegetable and bean soup in Tuscany Italy


Ribollita - This favourite soup is served throughout Tuscany and uses leftover bread, beans, vegetables and cabbage or kale.  Ribollita means "reboiled," and it is really boiled twice to give this soup depth of flavour.  Ribollita is said to have gotten its name from when the servants used to get the leftover food and bread from their wealthy Lord's banquet tables and reboiled it into a soup for a meal.  Tuscany has many other delicious and hearty soups to try like Acquacotta, which also uses leftover bread and Pappa col Pomodoro, which is a fresh tomato puree.

A plate of traditional handmade Pici pasta in Tuscany
Pici- In southern Tuscany, the pasta that is on every menu is in the shape of thick, chewy curls.  Looking like super thick spaghetti, pici pasta is made from flour and water (omitting the egg) and is hand-rolled, making it uneven in length and width.  This pasta is super fun to eat and is often served with a ragù or meat sauce.



Secondi


A wood-fired grill full of Chianina beef in Tuscany Italy
Bistecca alla Fiorentina
Bistecca alla Fiorentina- Bistecca alla Fiorentina is made from Chianina cattle, which free range all over Southwestern Tuscany.  When you see the steak on a restaurant menu, it is sold by the etto, which is a hundred grams.  Usually how it works is the waiter will bring a thick raw steak for you to survey, and once you approve it, he brings it back to the chef to cook over a wood-fired grill.  The chef will then prepare your steak on 4-5 minutes per side, producing a subtle charred effect, but it will be rare inside.  This is how Bistecca alla Fiorentina is served, and most restaurants will not give you a choice as to how well done you want your steak.  So if you like your meat well-cooked, I would avoid this dish. 
Shop in Tuscany Italy with wild boar head
Typical Shop Front of Tuscany




Cinghiale - Wild Boars are known as the "Kings of the Forest" and are plentiful in Tuscany and Umbria.  The boars are not welcomed in Tuscany because they wreak havoc in vineyards, uprooting the grapevines and trampling young plants.  Hunting season begins in Autumn, and you find cinghiale on every restaurant menu in stews, sauces called ragù, sausage and many different types of delicious salumi.  I just loved any kind of cinghiale salumi.


Pure white Chianina cattle free ranging in Southern Tuscany Italy
Chianina Cattle



Lampredotto -This is a typical Florentine street food.  There are little food trucks or carts that serve Lampredotto, which is a braised cow tripe served in a bun.  I didn't know that these carts only open up to sell Lampredotto in the Autumn, and as we were visiting Florence at the end of September, they were super busy!  I know many of you may think, "Ewwww, organ meat!"  But trust me, late at night strolling around Florence with a lampredotto and a glass of Chianti doesn't get any better!





Contorno

Basket of Porchini mushroom in TuscanyVegetables in Tuscany are fresh, delicious and plentiful.  The Tuscans eat with the seasons, so what you get in the shops and restaurants will depend on what time of year it is.  Spinach is abundant in Florence, and it can be found in everything; soups salads and even kinds of pasta.  Cannellini beans are ever-present in Tuscan cuisine, and the Tuscans are sometimes teased as mangiafagiolis or "bean eaters."  I was there in the fall, so it was the beginning of the mushroom and truffle season, which was an exciting time.


Porcini Mushrooms- These huge mushrooms herald the beginning of the Autumn Season in Tuscany.  Often these mushrooms are foraged daily from the local hills and displayed in a basket outside the restaurant door luring in hungry customers.  A delicious sauce to try on your pici pasta is boscaiola made from funghi porcini or porcini mushrooms.

  
Dolce

Sugar cone full of delicious gelato in Florence, Tuscany, Italy
BONUS:

Ok, I know I have given you 10 things to try, but we MUST have dessert!  Tuscans are not known for their elaborate desserts because their cooking heritage developed from rustic cowboy cooking, except for Sienna.   One would think with the opulence of Florence during the Renaissance, that decadent desserts would be abundant, but that is really not the case.  Although today some of the best gelatos can be found in Florence, Siena still "takes the cake" in the traditional dessert category.



Traditional homemade Panforte fruitcake from Siena, Tuscany, Italy
Homemade Panforte
Panforte-You have not lived until you have tried panforte in Siena; even if you are not a fruitcake lover, you will be converted.  This fruitcake dates back to when the Crusaders were in Turkey and found the cakes were well preserved for long voyages and easy to transport while marching.  In the 1200s, documents show that panforte was even used as a currency paid to the monks as taxes! The word panforte translates to "strong bread" for the peppery spice flavour in this dessert.   Full of local honey, fruit and nuts, you can find a variety of modern additions to the traditional 17 ingredients of Sienese panforte like chocolate, coffee and marzipan.  The panforte you purchase has a rice paper lining that you can eat, but if you find a little trattoria in Siena that serves homemade panforte, DO NOT MISS OUT! 

Powder sugar covered almond cookies called riccirelli from Siena Tuscany Italy 


Ricciarelli- These little sugar and almond cookies should come with a warning label!  They are so entirely delicious and addictive that you can not just have one!   Technically ricciarelli are macaroons drenched in powdered sugar.  These cookies are another Sienese dessert brought back from the crusades in the late Middle Ages- and probably one of my favourite Italian words to say!   The legend has it that a nobleman brought the recipe back from the Middle East and started to make almond cookies shaped like little Turkish slippers in his castle in Volterra near Siena.  These delicate, chewy almond cookies are great dipped in Vin Santo or other sweet Italian dessert wine and can also come in a non-traditional chocolate variety. 




Butcher shop in Tuscany, Italy with stuffed wild boar called cinghiale

Whatever you eat in Tuscany, my biggest tip I can give you is to skip any restaurant with a tourist menu.  Ask a local shop owner for a restaurant recommendation, or even more telling, where they go out to eat. Look for a small restaurant with a limited menu that is only written in Italian.  If the menu is handwritten, that's an even better indication of an authentic eatery!  Be adventurous, what may sound strange or scary to you will probably really surprise you!   Ask your waiter to recommend a dish; say, "I am in the mood for chicken; what do you recommend?"  The waiters have a vast amount of pride in what they serve and knowledge of the seasonal food.  I often ask my waiter to also recommend a local wine pairing for my meal as well...they are experts, after all.  



Have you got a favourite Tuscan dish that folks MUST try that I did not cover?  Let me know in the comments below.


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Friday, April 12, 2019

Ireland's Boyne Valley- A Perfect Day Trip From Dublin

Round tower of monasterboice with celtic cross in Boyne Valley Ireland


North of Dublin, lies a world of mysterious burial mounds, ruined abbeys, round towers, haunting high crosses and Ireland's biggest castle.  The Valley of the Boyne is a peaceful day trip through history... 


Stone Passage Tomb at Newgrange UNESCO world heritage site, Boyne valley Ireland
Tomb At Newgrange

The tranquil Boyne River valley lies just 48 km North of Dublin, yet it is worlds away from Ireland's busy capital city.  The Boyne River was where the first settlements in Ireland were established over 5,000 years ago.  These pre-Celtic or indigenous Irish people settled along the Boyne River (or An Bhóinn or Bóinne in Irish) and worshipped the Goddess Boann who according to myth, created the river and also who the river is named after.  This relatively short 112 km river passes through some of Ireland's most beautiful scenery and historical monuments, many of which are FREE to explore.

Getting around this rural area without a car may be a bit difficult. You can book day tours from Dublin that go to some of these sites that I list below.  Try www.boynevalleytours.com they can custom tailor a tour of the places you wish to see. 


Brú Na Bóinne

Neoliticcarvings on kerbstone at enterance to Newgrange burial Tomb, Bru na Boinne, Boyne Valley Ireland
Entrance To Newgrange


Brú Na Bóinne means "dwelling place of the Boyne" in Irish.  Located on a bend in the Boyne River, Brú Na Bóinne is a complex of about 90 megalithic monuments plus 3 enormous passage tombs:  Dowth (rhymes with South), Knowth and the famous Newgrange.  This unique archeological landscape has been designated a UNESCO world heritage site, and an excellent museum and visitor centre* has been built to educate visitors on the various passage graves, henges, standing stones and Neolithic art.  The people who created these structures pre-date the Celts and showed such a strong knowledge of astronomy and architecture that these structures still align with the path of the sun 5,000  years after they were built!  You can tour inside one of these passage tombs and witness the Winter Solstice sunlight creeping into the ritual chamber...an experience you will never forget.  Check out my full blog post on Brú Na Bóinne

*THE VISITOR CENTRE IS CLOSED FOR RENOVATIONS STARTING END OF MARCH 2019



Hill of Tara



Stone Celtic cross atop The Hill of Tara, Boyne Valley, Ireland


Another ancient site nearby is the Hill of Tara.  This was the place where the High King of all of Ireland was crowned at the standing stone "Lia Fáil" or "The Stone of Destiny." The King followed the Pagan ritual called the ban-feis, where the High King marries the Goddess Maeve in order to be crowned.  From Neolithic times up to the last Pagan High King of Tara Diarmait mac Cerbaill, who died in 565 CE; this hill was Ireland's seat of power.  This where Saint Patrick came in the year 432 to challenge the High King of Tara to be able to spread the new religion of Christianity.  At the Hill of Tara, it's not all about what you SEE; it's about what you FEEL, and the earth vibrates with energy in this place!  

There is a visitor center in an old church of St. Patrick where you can buy tickets for  €5  to watch a 20-minute instructional video and join a guided walk that explains the various sites atop the Hill of Tara.  The visitor centre open from 10:00am to 6:00pm,  mid-May to mid-September but the Hill of Tara is open year round and FREE!




Monasterboice


Round tower rising above the Celtic crosses at Monasterboice Monastery, Boyne River Valley, Ireland
Round Tower
Early Christian Celtic cross at Monasterboice monastery, Boyne River Vally, Ireland
Murdocks Cross

Monasterboice is a ruined early Christian monastic settlement like Glendalough in the Wicklow Mountains south of Dublin.  This monastery was settled by Saint Buithe in the late 5th century but was in it's prime in the mid 900's when an Abbot named Muiredach (Murdock) was in charge.  This is when the round tower of Monasterboice was built, and now it stands with it's top blown off.  One of my favourite Celtic High Crosses in all of Ireland is Murdock's Cross which is sort of a picture book carved in stone of Bible stories that the Abbots used to teach Christianity to the Pagans.  This cross is 5.8 meters high (19 feet) and is made of sandstone that is weathering away in the Irish elements.  There are other beautiful High Crosses in this graveyard, and also an intriguing sundial from around 1,000 CE.  The lines on the sundial mark the 5 times per day the monks are required to pray.  This site is FREE and always open!

Eventually, in 1142 Monasterboice fell out of favour when a more significant abbey was built 2 miles away in a new style "popular" on the continent... 


Mellifont Abbey


Lavabo ruins at Mellifont Abbey, Boyne River Valley, Ireland
Ruins of Mellifont Abbey
Called Mhainistir Mhór in Irish meaning "The Big Monastery," Mellifont Abbey was the first Cistercian Abbey built in all of Ireland. The monastery was built in 1142, and by the 1170s there were already 400 monks living at this site!  The name Mellifont comes from an Anglicised version of the Latin name for the Abbey; Mellis-fons meaning "Font of Honey."  This could be because the Cistercian monks were known for their beekeeping to make mead here, or it could be referring to the opulent octagon Lavabo that remains as part of the ruins today.  The Lavabo is where the monks used to wash their hands before eating and praying. Cistercian monks were widely known for two things: hard agricultural labour and the most beautiful style of Medieval architecture.  It is a shame there are only ruins to explore here at Mellifont Abbey, and they are worth a peek, especially if you are at nearby Monasterboice.  The site is open for the 2019 tourist season from 30 May- 04 September from 10:00 am to 6:00 pm.  The entrance fee is €5 for adults and includes a guided tour upon request.



Trim Castle


Trim castle, Trim, Ireland
Trim Castle
The little town of Trim is also situated along the Boyne River.  The enormous well-preserved castle along the grassy shores of the Boyne is the largest Norman castle in all of Ireland.  The castle was built over 30 years and completed in 1172.  The entrance fee to Trim castle includes an informative 45-minute guided tour that takes you through the grounds and into the castle keep.  Trim castle is open from mid-March to mid-October from 10am to 6pm and is €5 for adults (which includes the tour).  The tours leave two times an hour, but in the summer months these fill up FAST!  Arrive early so you won't be disappointed.  For more information see Heritage Ireland's site for Trim Castle

Tower ruins of Trim castle in Trim Ireland
Trim Castle From The Boyne River


After your castle tour, how about a stroll?  There are some lovely walking trails along the Boyne River that cross over into Newton (which was actually the "new town" in 1200) and meander through the fields to the old church ruins of Clonbun. FREE to explore this dark and brooding churchyard! Not far past the churchyard along the walking trail is one of the oldest pubs in Ireland; the Marcie Regan Pub.  This place is ancient, and the beams and low ceilings are all original!  Grab a pint at this super atmospheric pub and soak in the history.  NOTE: The Marcie Regan Pub does not serve food; just beer and great craic!  



The Boyne Valley offers so much more rich history to explore such as the Battle of the Boyne (www.battleoftheboyne.ie), Hill of Slane/Slane Castle in the ancient town of Slane and also the village of Kells known for its early monastery founded by Saint Columba. This old Christian monastery has an excellent round tower, an oratory and four of the most beautiful high crosses in Ireland.  


It's easy to get off the beaten path in the Boyne River Valley.  If you have spent time in this region what was your favourite place to explore?  Comment down below, I would love to hear from you!



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Saturday, March 30, 2019

Dublin Day Trip To Newgrange

Large Henge stone at Newgrange, Bru Na Boinne, Boyne Valley, Couny Meath, Ireland


North of Dublin, lies a group of mysterious burial mounds, some of which are 500 years older than the pyramids of Giza. Thought to be entrances to the Fairy realm, a visit to Brú na Bóinne IS entering an enchanting world...of the past.


Burial mound in neighbouring farmers field Newgrange, Bru Na Boinne, County Meath, Ireland
More Burial Mounds In Farmer's Fields
In a lush and tranquil green valley 48 km (30 miles) north of Ireland's bustling capital city Dublin, lies one of Irelands two UNESCO World Heritage Sites:  Brú na Bóinne.  Ireland's other incredible UNESCO World Heritage Site that I visit is Skellig Michael on the rugged West Coast.  The name Brú na Bóinne means "dwelling place of the Boyne" in Irish, after the first people that settled here along the Boyne River over 5,000 years ago.  Brú na Bóinne consists of a modern state-of-the-art museum/visitor centre and two massive passage tombs: Newgrange, Knowth and Dowth.  These passage tombs were built in the Neolithic age by the pre-Celtic indigenous people that the Celtic people called the Tuatha Dé Danaan or "The People of The Goddess Danu." The Celts believed the Tuatha Dé Danaan were a supernatural race of people that simply disappeared into the "Fairy Mounds" and live in another realm.  There is so much mystery surrounding these ancient pre-Celtic people!



Covered walkway to the Bru Na Boinne Visitor Centre, County Meath, Ireland
Entrance To Visitor Centre

If you are heading to this historic site, there are a few things to note.  1. It gets hectic during July and August so try to arrive at the visitor centre before 10:00 am to avoid long lines.  2. You can not visit the tombs on your own, you must be a part of the formal tour group from the Visitor Centre.  3. Newgrange is open year-round, and Knowth is only open May-October.  So if you want to see both passage tombs, you must go during the warmer months.  Dowth is known as "The Fairy Mound of Darkness" and is aligned to the Winter Solstice sunset.  You can see the mound of Dowth by going directly to the site, but there is no public access to the tomb.  There has been an active areological dig there in the past year when in July 2018 a passage tomb was discovered in nearby Dowth Hall possibly connecting it to Dowth mound.


We arrived first thing in the morning before the Visitor Centre opened-and yes, there was already a line-up!  Once we got inside and purchased our tickets we had to wait a half hour for our shuttle bus, so we headed downstairs to the reasonably priced cafeteria for coffee and breakfast. Perfect.




THE VISITOR CENTRE IS TEMPORARILY CLOSED FROM MARCH 28TH 2019, FOR APPROXIMATELY 6 MONTHS FOR RENOVATIONS.  THE TOMBS TOURS ARE STILL RUNNING FROM THE PARKING LOT.



Newgrange Paassage mound, Bru Na Boinne, County Meath, Ireland
Newgrange


Giant kerbstone at the entrance to Newgrange passage tomb, Bru Na Boinne, County Meath, Ireland
Entrance To Newgrange



The Brú na Bóinne visitor centre is open 9am to 7pm in the summer months.  When you arrive at the visitor centre purchase your ticket for the tomb site of your choice; either Newgrange or Knowth (rhymes with South).  Newgrange is €7, Knowth is 6, both are 13, and just the visitor centre is 4.  When you purchase your ticket, you are assigned a time to board a shuttle bus that takes you to your selected passage tomb.  The shuttle bus takes about 15 minutes to drive out to the site, where an archeologist will then meet you and give you a 30-minute guided tour explaining the significance of the ancient burial mound.  For up to date information on the prices and times of tours visit the government website:  http://www.heritageireland.ie/en/midlands-eastcoast/brunaboinnevisitorcentre/

So, you may be asking what is the difference between the two tombs; Newgrange and Knowth? 







One of the many stone structures at the Newgrange UNESCO world heritage site, Bru Na Boinne, County Meath, Ireland
More Structures at Newgrange
Newgrange is older than Knowth and is aligned to the sunrise on Winter Solstice (December 21).  It dates from 3200 BCE, and you are allowed inside the central chamber with your tour guide. WARNING:  If you are at all claustrophobic you do NOT want to enter the burial mound!!    It's a tight squeeze down an 18 meter (60 foot) passageway into the central chamber.  Once everyone is inside the main womb-like cavity, there is a demonstration of how the Winter Solstice sunlight enters the sacred room through the roofbox above the entrance door.  The guide warns you that the lights will go out, and then you are in absolute darkness with 200,000 tons of dirt and stone above you!  Watching the sunlight slowly crawl towards the central ritual chamber to where the ancestral bones were kept was such a visceral experience that it actually moved me to tears!  The thought of experiencing this ritual like people did 5,000 years ago gave me a feeling of connection to the people and the land of the Boyne Valley.  

The OPW holds a yearly Winter Solstice Tour Lottery into Newgrange from December 18- 23, where a few lucky participants can witness the Winter Solstice sunrise at 8:58 am from inside the ritual chamber.  for more information on how to enter the Lottery see the OPW website here: http://www.worldheritageireland.ie/en/bru-na-boinne/winter-solstice/


Neolithic art on massive kerbstone Newgrange and Knowth, Bru Na Boinne, Couty Meath, Ireland
Kerbstone With Geometric Patterns

Knowth is also a very impressive necropolis with it's superior geometrically carved kerbstones and passage tomb.  There are two entrances, one East and one West that are is aligned to the sunrise on the Spring and Autumn Equinoxes.  Unfortunately, you can not enter the actual burial mound, but there is a room built into the tomb where there is a cutaway so you can see into the passageway. You can also see how the mound was constructed with layers of rock and dirt that withstood 5000 years of the Irish elements.  

Reviving the art of willow fencing at Bru Na Boinne, County Meath, Ireland
Willow Fencing


If you only have time (or patience) to see one of the Neolithic sites of Brú na Bóinne, then I would recommend NEWGRANGE.  Even if the line up to Newgrange is longer, the visit inside the passage chamber was phenomenal. But, if you are not interested in going inside a passage tomb, then Knowth would be a better choice to visit.

For more history on Brú na Bóinne visit the government website: http://www.worldheritageireland.ie/bru-na-boinne/ 
or check out this fantastic website for everything you need need to know to explore this area: https://www.knowth.com/

There is a concentration of rich history to explore in the Boyne Valley beyond Newgrange such as The Hill of Tara, Monasterboice and Trim Castle just to name a few.  Having your own vehicle to discover the area would be ideal.  Otherwise, there are many tours of the Boyne Valley including Newgrange, that depart from Dublin each morning.  Check out boynevalleytours.com   they come highly recommended.






Have you visited Brú na Bóinne?  What passage tomb did you prefer; Newgrange, Dowth or Knowth?  Let me know in the comments below.


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