Algonquin Park Centennial Ridges Hike

I woke up in the middle of the night to wolf howls...distant and distinct.  The shivers down my spine told me these were not dogs or even coyote howls; because we hear those at our farm almost nightly.  This was the definite mournful cry of a lone wolf in the nearby mountains.  Then about a minute later, from the opposite direction came another wolf's soul felt reply and the hair on the back of my neck stood up...

This 2:30am exchange between wolves was exhilarating.  I was wide awake for another hour waiting to hear more cries; I was even going to try to record the howls on my phone, but there was only silence after that.  I had only heard a wolf one other time; in the Caribou region of British Columbia while staying at an abandoned fishing resort.  I had imagined that the wolves of Algonquin would be way up in the remote backcountry of the park, I had no idea that wolves would be in such a populated area of the Provincial Park.

Wood Fired Bagels

After our camp breakfast of toasted bagels on a stick (don`t ask) we decided to head out for a day hike.  I filled up our water bottles and tossed them into our backpack with a dog bowl and some granola bars.  After the lovely sunset views we had from the bluff of the Lookout Loop Trail the previous evening, we were hungry for more scenic cliffs overlooking the park. We going to attempt to hike the Centennial Ridges Trail; a 10.4 km loop that wanders along two long ridges on the south side of Highway 60.

There are two access points to the trail; one accessible from Highway 60, the other trailhead is near the Coon Lake Campground. The trailhead parking lot was not full, which was an encouraging sign that the hike was not going to be overcrowded.  This was the last chance for us to use a butthut for the next 10km and to pick up an interpretive trail guide.  These trail guides are excellent because there are numbered stations along the trek for you to stop at and read information about the history and natural features along the trek.

We set off on our way through the maple forest.  I looked at the map of the Centennial Ridges Loop, but I didn't notice the elevation gains of the hike (which probably was a good thing).  There are five separate ascents and descents on the trek, and the total vertical distance you climb is 360 meters or 1,200 feet!  That's a pretty intimidating hike when you are dragging along a teenager and two senior dachshunds.

The Centennial Ridge Hike was opened in 1993 to commemorate Algonquin Parks one hundred year anniversary and honours eleven people who have helped shaped the history of Algonquin Park.  The trail climbs immediately to Founder's Ridge and you are rewarded with a stunning vista overlooking Whitefish Lake in the background and a sea of green pine trees.  Wandering along the brow of the ridge for some time, you suddenly plunge back down to the forest valley and pass a small trout lake.  You walk past huge boulders dropped here by glaciers during the last ice age.  These giant rocks are almost irresistible to climb for our teen; who apparently is half mountain goat.  Save your energy, kid-the next ridge is the toughest.

Snake Skin

The trail then heads back up again to the highest peak of the hike; MacDougall Mountain.  This peak on the East facing bluff is 560 meters or 1850 feet and has an entirely different view from the previous cliffs.  The expansive carpet of hundreds of different colours of green sprawl out before you.   After a rest and some water, the path drops down again into a grove of Red Spruce.  There are only pockets of Red Spruce in Ontario, and they grow in the Algonquin Highlands.  Our teen Liam liked to sometimes run ahead and explore on his own and return with interesting treasures.  He came across a perfectly preserved snake skin left sitting in a sunny patch by its previous owner.

Eastern Facing Bluffs

Of course, the trail again climbed up another hill to the same ridge, and the hike became a little monotonous at this point.



We did see what we thought were some peregrine falcons flying around this ridge perhaps having nests somewhere in the trees or cliffs here.  Peregrine falcons were re-introduced to Algonquin Park in 1984 as part of a Nationwide conservation effort.  These falcons were wiped out in Eastern Canada due to pesticides like DDT in the prey that the Falcons were eating.
There was also some interesting and beautiful mosses, lichens, mushrooms and ground covering flowers on the cliffs of the east bluffs.
Again, the publication of the Centennial Ridges Trail was informative to read during our water and rest breaks because we learned so much about the history of the park and the people who contributed so much of their lives to conserve this place; including politicians, rangers, artists, educators and wildlife conservationists.


By the time we dropped off the eastern ridges to little Cloud Lake we were bloody sick of this hike!  Really.  Our dachshunds were tired and kept plopping down or wanting to be carried, the kid was grumbling, and we had sweat most of our mosquito repellant off. The incentive of "let's get ice cream when we are done this hike" became an obsession in my head.  I was daydreaming about what flavours of ice cream may be available instead of being at one with nature. Once we passed the trail marker to the Coon Lake Campground turnoff, we knew there was only one last bluff left to tackle.  The final ridge of the Centennial Ridges is the most spectacular of the whole trail.  High above Whitefish Lake, the flat cliff top with its sun-warmed rocks was the perfect place to rest and gather up our strength to walk the last few kilometres to the parking lot.

Nap Time At Bryant's Bluff

TIP:  The most beautiful part of the trek through the forest and cliff top views are the LAST 3 TRAIL MARKERS (10-12).  If you are limited in time or don't want to walk the whole loop-DO THE CENTENNIAL RIDGE TRAIL BACKWARDS!  You (and your calves) will thank me!  Next time we hike the Centennial Ridges Trail we will walk the loop in the opposite direction.  Starting at the parking lot we will take a left at the fork instead of a right, passing by Rutter Lake and straight to Bryant's Bluff.

Relaxing After The Long Hike

Once back at our car, we drove straight to Lake Of Two Rivers.  Lake Of Two Rivers is the hub of Algonquin Park.  There is a store, cafe & grill, bike rental, campground, public beach and the historic Killarney Lodge which has been hosting guests in Algonquin Park since the 1930's. The Lake Of Two Rivers cafe has an ice cream parlour that serves local Kawartha Dairy ice cream.  Let me just tell you this; after 10.4 km of up & down multiple ridges all day, that double scoop of Kawartha Moose Tracks ice cream has NEVER tasted so good!  We sat outside in the evening sun enjoying our ice cream and watched as swarms of people started to arrive at Two Rivers Store.  It took me a minute to figure out what was going on, but there is take out pizza available at the cafe! What?!?  PIZZA when camping!  So much for roughing it with hot dogs and canned beans for dinner.  Some of the other campers told me the pizza was really good here and even though we were tempted,  we went back to our Kearney Lake campground for a spaghetti dinner.  It just seemed like sacrilege to have take-out when camping!

The evening slipped into night time, and we barely moved from our chairs surrounding our crackling campfire.  The usual camping delicacies were served & consumed around the fire that evening, marshmallows, JiffyPop, smores.  Somehow, this junk food always tastes better after such a physically exerting day.



Our nightly planning session for the next day's adventure was driven by one question:  How can we see Algonquin Park without having to walk anymore? Very late that night I literally crawled into the tent and then into my sleeping bag, and collapsed onto the now half-deflated Thermarest pads.  I laid still and tried to ignore my throbbing legs and hip joints, wondering if I had packed any pain relief medicine. Then the answer came to me.  Why, of course!  We can rent a canoe and explore Algonquin by water!  Somewhere far off in the distance, a lone wolf howled to acknowledge my good idea, and I smiled to myself as I drifted off into deep, restful sleep.


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